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1994 paint - adhesion optional

Dan Hunter

Dan Hunter

Truck Terrorist
Messages
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Location
Enid, OK
Over a decade ago I quit washing the truck when the paint started flaking off. Figured if it didn't care what it looked like neither should I. With the Bramco bed about ready, it's time for a change.

I pressure washed the whole truck to clean up the frame for the Bramco installation and knock off any loose paint. I the used a rotary air sander to pull off the oxide and scuff the paint. Washed the old gal and stuck her in the garage. I'll mask tomorrow and the roll on two coats of Parker duck boat paint - teal blue/gray. I did this once before on my 1984 Chevy pickup and it was amazingly tough despite no prep work.

Here's what she looks like today.

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Will, sorry no video but a few photos. Besides, I don't know what I'm doing as a painter and I'm sure there are plenty of youtube videos on the subject.

I think I put a couple hours into sanding, three into tape and two into rolling on the paint. With assistance or a place to spray with my Wagner power painter I could have cut the time in half. There are some transition lines that make it obvious it was rolled on but I don't care because it'll continue to see roller applications for touch up in the future. It's covered, it's one color, it looks great from 5 feet away and has enough blue hue to make it clear it isn't primer.

The three attached photos show:

The tarp I taped down. Best to mask first then tape down the tarp. The roller flung droplets about 2 feet at the most.

The masked truck. I used my finger nail to push a groove as I dropped the first tape line down and then taped to that tape to hold the paper. I used a dental pick to further push the groove and cut the tape then rolled the edge of the tape over with my fingernail. I left the portion of the truck under the front bumper unpainted.

The finished truck. Now for the Bramco bed.

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There are also guys who use tremclad or rustoleum and roller paint the whole truck apparently pretty durable and inexpensive paint job. Yours looks good from the pics are you going to undercoat the frame since it is clean and exposed.
 
No, the truck spent all it's time in WA or OK and I live in an area that doesn't salt much and most can be avoided thus the spiffy underside. If I lived in the NE I'd goo it up pronto. Besides, it's gone from a daily driver to almost a dedicated tow platform for my tractor with occasion wx backup for my spouse. It'll never wear out.
 
Great. I'll have time on my hands. I don't figure ordering the disc harrow or talking to rural water folks is going to fill the install time.

Coffee and Co op works for me. Maybe hanging out there with you will enhance my "farm cred". As it is, I'm still a tourist when I go through there...when people look at me I can hear the "Green Acres" theme song in my head.
 
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So, I put all this work into it and what's the thanks I get? A sticking caliper on the front brakes and a fuel leak. The latter has the top of the manifold wet and the blanket on the hood above wet. The injectors and return lines are dry. I tightened down the plenum bolts. We'll see.
 
And it got it. I was on the way to the ranch and noticed smoke...smelled diesel. I pulled over to check and it was a streamer under the truck. I drove it home and found with the lift pump on the fuel line that connects to the drain petcock had cracked. Really, a fountain that robust should have mood music and laser lights accompanying it. I plugged it and made it to the ranch.
 
Nice. You'd think duck boat paint would be pretty rugged and the pictures look good. A bunch of guys I know with old Army trucks are painting them with Behr house paint and it holds up surprisingly well. They say it cures a bit slow so you have to be careful about rub marks for a week or so or use the additive to accelerate curing. Seems someone did an analysis of the new water-based CARC paint and it's almost a perfect match to the Behr paint. I need to paint my old CUCV but am struggling with the idea of painting a vehicle with house paint, but then if it's basically the same stuff...
 
The verdict? Pitman arm, tie rods and ball joints - 1100 bucks. Hey, I'd pay that for just the pitman arm.
 
2-3hrs in the barn and I'd have you together. Order everything moog from rock auto except the pitman, get the pitman ac delco.

$100 for alignment in fairview.

Source Unknown
 
Thanks but it's being disassembled as I type because it got so bad so quickly I couldn't take my eyes off the road. Probably because of the extra weight in back. Plus that's quite an imposition but thanks.

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk
 
I've done worse for beer money. I enjoy turning a wrench at someone elses expense. I also feel like people are getting ripped off on tire shop front end repairs, the local front end guy doesnt mind me sending him quick easy alignments all day.
 
With some down time at work, I rotated the rear tires back to where they were before the thing started pulling. No more pull.
 
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