n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
You had to do funky wiring to get yours to have running lights? Yeah if your mirrors were only designed to be turn signals, I could see that being a headache to wire up.
-
Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.
Your truck knowledge is missing!
- Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
- We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
- Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
- NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
Problems registering? Click here to contact us!
Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!
1994 K3500 extended cab dually
- Thread starter n8in8or
- Start date
You had to do funky wiring to get yours to have running lights? Yeah if your mirrors were only designed to be turn signals, I could see that being a headache to wire up.
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
Wow! You have so much time invested in that transmission! I hope the damage is minimal and you are able to get it working correctly without too much trouble.
Do actually use lockup in 1st gear, or did you just build it so you could if you wanted? With the Tahoe, I wanted lockup in first, but that was really just a bandaid for the torque converter that was in it. I'm hoping I'll be much happier with this Hughes converter I have in here.
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
My mirrors have just one set of lights. Your choice either turn or running, I wanted both. I had to ask someone smarter than me how to do it. If anyone is interested I can post the diagram.
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
I'd be interested to see how it was done.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
Yes, you can make the lights parking and signal. Which mirrrors are you using? If they are the new K2XX mirrors you need to take them apart to seperate the outside amber from the in glass signal. From there you need to diode the LEDs so they can be fed from both the parking and signal circuit (this is what I did http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn305/88gmctruck/Random Pile O Crap/ParkingSignalLEDWiring.jpg)
David was very helpful
David was very helpful
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
Can anyone else open that link?
smokymtn65
Well-Known Member
I cannot
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
Nope, I can't open it either.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
I’m not 100% sure how this works, but I’ll trust it does. I can’t figure out how it grounds. Fortunately I didn’t have to do any of that to get these mirrors to function. I also like how my mirrors have the running light dimmer than the turn signal.
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
I am driving it "no slippage" run high pressure max amount of clutches which increases pressure even more and when it shifts you feel it...
The 48RE can be programmed to lockup in all gears up/or down works great w/exhaust brake.
Put it in low lock it and pull a house down.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
That diagram uses what's called a floating ground
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Wonderful news.
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
I googled that today. I kinda get what’s happening…..and I understand that it DOES work…..but it just doesn’t seem like it SHOULD work. It’s good to know though, thanks for sharing.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
My thoughts exactly
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
I got some bright LEDs for the turn signals today.
They made a good difference in the amount of light coming through the lenses. The LEDs are in the passenger side and brand new Phillips 2357NA bulbs are in the driver side in the video below.
The turn signals did hyperflash once installed so I installed the electronic flasher I bought with the bulbs.
This is a video of the signal flashing after the installation of the electronic flasher.
These are the part numbers I bought.
They made a good difference in the amount of light coming through the lenses. The LEDs are in the passenger side and brand new Phillips 2357NA bulbs are in the driver side in the video below.
The turn signals did hyperflash once installed so I installed the electronic flasher I bought with the bulbs.
This is a video of the signal flashing after the installation of the electronic flasher.
These are the part numbers I bought.
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
Tonight I just about finished something I’ve been working on a couple days: the airbox for the cold air intake.
I started earlier this week making a cardboard template from old boxes that fit pretty well.
Last night I transferred that to a single sheet of thick card stock that added flanges for mounting and made my final tweaks. Once I was satisfied with that iteration I transferred the design to some .050” thick aluminum sheet and cut it out. I had ordered some weatherstripping from McMaster-Carr so I put some of that on the bottom edge to see how it would seal against the inner fender. It worked really nice. Much better than caulking it to the inner fender like I had with the Tahoe. This can be easily removed if ever needed. That’s where I finished up last night.
I started earlier this week making a cardboard template from old boxes that fit pretty well.
Last night I transferred that to a single sheet of thick card stock that added flanges for mounting and made my final tweaks. Once I was satisfied with that iteration I transferred the design to some .050” thick aluminum sheet and cut it out. I had ordered some weatherstripping from McMaster-Carr so I put some of that on the bottom edge to see how it would seal against the inner fender. It worked really nice. Much better than caulking it to the inner fender like I had with the Tahoe. This can be easily removed if ever needed. That’s where I finished up last night.
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
Tonight I finished the install. I drilled and screwed the air box to the core support and the fender. Then I had to relocate the headlight relays. When I installed those before, I mounted then where they’d have plenty of room with the air cleaner running parallel to the core support, but now that I’m running it perpendicular, it hit the relays, so I had to move them. Ideally I’d move them somewhere else, but the length of the current wiring doesn’t give me many options, so I mounted them to the inside of the air box. The relays and plugs are water tight, so they’ll be fine here.
Once that was done it was time to install the air filter and plumbing. Then I formed the flap that extended the air box to the radiator hold down. Finally I added another strip of weatherstripping to the top edge of the box to seal against the hood. Now it is basically complete.
All I have left to do is find something to plug the inside of the fender to keep the hot engine air from getting into the air box. Once I have this installed for a while and decide I’m happy with it, I plan to add a layer of Tunnel Shield to it on the engine side to insulate it from engine heat. Overall I’m happy with how it turned out - it looks good and it’s sealing most hot air out of the intake tract.
Once that was done it was time to install the air filter and plumbing. Then I formed the flap that extended the air box to the radiator hold down. Finally I added another strip of weatherstripping to the top edge of the box to seal against the hood. Now it is basically complete.
All I have left to do is find something to plug the inside of the fender to keep the hot engine air from getting into the air box. Once I have this installed for a while and decide I’m happy with it, I plan to add a layer of Tunnel Shield to it on the engine side to insulate it from engine heat. Overall I’m happy with how it turned out - it looks good and it’s sealing most hot air out of the intake tract.
smokymtn65
Well-Known Member
I thought you were going to lay some glass mat and resin to that cardboard!