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1994/95 pickup help

A

AKTikki

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Location
Anchorage, Alaska
ok I have a 1994 k 2500 that im trying to get running. well i should say i got running but not right. previous owner had a fire in the engine bay so i got a new wiring harness for it. also found out that it has a IP from a 95 3500 same with pmd. Now I have both computers for the truck (1994-1995) and i have gmtd tech i got it running and it ran like crap thought it was the timing and i dont think i'm to far off about that. My problem is i dunno which computer to use with this pump. I know im supposed to use the 95 computer with the 95 pump but i have no way to tell which computer is 1995. a little more information... on one computer all the sensors show up but no matter what i do or how i turn the IP its always got between 15 and 25 degree of advanced measured injection timing. While it says to have 9.5 or so desired timing. even if i turn it way retarded the timing still jumps all over but never lower then 15 on actual and i moved it enough to be able to make a difference. i cant get it to retime due to this it always gives me dtc 34. now i plug in the other computer and it seemed to run better but no throttle and there is a lot of dcts that seem to point to a bad PMD and it can't read the timing due to these (dtc 34 and 17 and one of the injection pulse ones if i remember correctly. and those are just with this computer). the timing reads 0. its a pain to start with either computer but one seems to give it so much timing. also the actual injection pump timing says something like 43.

i have part numbers for both computers i have tried moving both chips into each computer with no difference.

one computers number is *86bpaam252490093 with serv no 16212488

the other is 86bkylm240533888 with service number 16183977

i could not get around to the back of the injection pump but the tag on the engine stop solenoid has a few numbers i hope will identify the pump

540114 11096665 5942

if i can figuire out which computer is right i could at least start figuireing out if the timing is off a tooth or if the PMD is bad. please help

oh and the optic sensor is way off both computer show it having like 20mm of fuel at idle. would that effect the timing? i know i have to fix that before driving it but i would at least like to get it timed and running in a way to where its not shaking and having to hold it full throttle just to get it to start. along with it not wanting to rev at all.
 
also to note. the lift pump seems to be working fine and the actual injection pump timing that I mentioned above is only on the computer that gives it way to much timing
 
any help would be greatly appreciated. I plan on going out there again this saturday to see what i can figuire out. I wish i had a extra PMD to test on the one computer. I don't mind throwing a bit of money into this truck I just dont want to throw any more into it until i know for sure where to throw it. it sat for about 2 years with a bad harness. the truck has 110 miles on it with brand new heads before the wiring harness melted. the pump, injectors, and turbo came from a 95 with a bad piston also about 110 miles on it as well.
 
It may not hurt to drain the fuel and put new fuel in. Les will figure it out if he has a look at it.
 
thanks i'll give you a call as soon as i get out of work tomorrow. NVW its got fresh fuel in it now. we drove it up to the station in its current condition with the timing. its was almost empty when we first got it fired. I put in a little diesel 911 and some cetene boost in it (silver bottle). although we had to clean the return line. something was clogging in just before the tank. assumed it was gelled up fuel from sitting so long and how cold it has been. its under a carport so its outta the snow but still freezing. im just happy the block heater works its been a lifesaver!
 
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So I met with Chris today seemed like a great guy. We played around with it for a couple of hours by the time I left we were thinking CPS which he confirmed later by text. Maybe he'll chime in here on how it went after I left.
 
Went pretty well finally home after a lot of driving. Still a couple bugs to figure out. no matter what i do the timing will not get away from 8.5-9 and TDCO Keeps thinking it needs to advance it more but goes out of range (getting positive 2.02 instead of -2.02). Fuel is at about 8mm at idle so i know the optic sensor is close I'm going to switch out the batteries tomorrow and make sure everything is dialed in. Other then the timing being a bit more advanced then i wanted it starts almost instantly every time. Les your lucky you were going away from heading the other way. when me and my friend started getting it back to Anchorage it was whiteout from Wasilla till arctic valley. new tires are going on monday after the sliding around i did tonight. I'm just happy the truck wasn't a waste of time like i was starting to worry. Again I can't thank you enough
 
Been doing a lot of reading......something just clicked that i wasn't understanding... i thought moving the pump would change the timing WITHOUT having it in timeset mode I think i have been timing this thing wrong... gonna try it the way i understand it now when i get up tomorrow maybe i can get it right now that my brain is firing on all 8 :mad2:
 
Only move the pump while engine is off. Command timeset, then command tdcoffset.
 
Tinkering around with it today I found out i was an idiot. Now that i can correctly read it timing is sitting at about 4 to 5 (bounces around i think chain has some slop). with tdc offset about -1.09. im going to fine tune this eventually unless someone here informs me that its bad to have it where it is. one of the injectors was leaking so i tightened that up and it runs pretty smooth now. fuel at idle is a bit high at 10 mm but no smoke. its got some clatter but runs runs at about 190F with 40 psi of oil pressure at all times. volt gauge is scary low. im going to grab a multimeter soon and see what kind of volts its at when running. it always starts and the lights are decently bright but its just 2 lines away from being in the red (3 if all accessories and lights are off with it pulsing between lines when I put on blinkers). gonna let it get cold tonight and see how much of a pain it is to start without being plugged in. After i get the tires on tomorrow glow plugs and injectors are in the future. Les recommended a particular set of glow plugs but I can't remember for the life of me. hope he chimes in. any recommendations on injectors?
 
duraterms. injectors are kind of a crap shoot the nozzles they use to rebuild them with and being pop tested are the most important thing
 
NVW said:
x2 on Bosch duraterms, your timing is fine where it is.
Click to expand...
Or AC Delco 60G glow plugs.

Use no other glow plugs than these 2 in these 6.5 diesels.

There is not other glow plug than these 2, that I know of, that has a track record of performance, dependability or longevity
 
ok something else thats driving me crazy. this diesel is very clanky loud! I have heard it could be wrist pin, injectors, valves, broken glow plug, timing, rod knock, and im sure there are more ideas that i'm forgetting. My question is this... wouldn't all of these issues cause either power loss or white smoke or a shake with the motor? this thing only puts out smoke when i start it and if i let it idle for a while then floor it. engine runs perfectly with no misses and no shakes... I am not very knowlegeable about diesels. but I have some gasser knowledge. correct any of this if I'm wrong... If it was a wrist pin... wouldn't it shake as well as changing tone/hit harder due to temperature/rpms as well as be followed by another immediate knock at a different tone ? this sound doesn't change tone or harshness at all. it does speed up with rpm but i have put about 250 miles on this thing so far and it hasn't gotten any louder and temperature makes no difference. if it was injector. wouldn't it smoke all the time and have a miss? i havent cracked the lines yet but I did shut of each injector with GMTD for about 5 seconds and a small rev. no difference. it can be a pain to start only when cold so im sure the injectors are tired so im going to pull them and have them tested soon. if it was a rod knock it would have gotten worse already and temperature/rpms would make a difference. oil pressure would be low as well which is almost always at 40 + - 5psi when hot/cold. valves aren't adjustable on this correct? i'll pull passenger valve cover soon (thats where the noise is) and check it out but i was told these heads were fairly new and my friend saw all the plastic retainers in place when he had the cover off.. timing is set closer to factory i belive its 3.6 with a - .8 offset and it made no difference on noise. this thing runs great but the noise coming from it sounds closer to a tired N/A 7.3 then the 6.2 and 6.5s I'm used to hearing. strange thing is this thing runs amazing the last 2 mid 80's 6.2s i owned could only dream of being this smooth. im going to tinker with it this weekend. i was just sharing my thought process a little bit and see if i'm missing something or if my thought process is wrong. if this was a gasser the knock is loud enough i would be tearing into the motor...yet it shows no other signs.... has me a bit stumped.
 
wrist pin should get quieter as you rev the engine and then get louder when you let off. mains would stay loud all the time. My vote is for something in the valvetrain, maybe a collapsed lifter, injectors can knock without smoking
 
If a wrist pin, main, rod, lifter,rocker arm - you are not going to have all 8 of them go bad at the same time. Kill the cylinders one at a time and listen for the sound to go away. This will tell you what cylinder it is, if there is a problem. If the sound is identical your probably just be over cautious.

As for the injectors: the cheap ones get about 35,000 miles the good ones are usually 100,000 miles, and the mystical German made Bosch that are no longer available I will say 175,000 miles (let the bragging begin now).

They will give you more or less knock based on pop pressure, spray pattern quality, and sometimes which way the wind is blowing. Having them tested is a great idea. If the shop you use, or you, can rebuild them while they are out to get within 25 psi of each other you will be a happy camper with the results. Leroy has a good deal on the nozzles if you do that (which reminds me, I have to order mine today).

Do you have a clear line on for the ip return? Air in the lines can make it louder.

My first experience inside a 6.2 was over the obvious sound of something being wrong. It was me, everything was ok, these puppy's just bark in a way I wasn't used to. Worked out ok, it was a fleet truck that ended up with many miles on it.
 
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