• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

1993 Cooling mods?

WarWagon

WarWagon

Well it hits on 7 of 8...
Messages
10,716
Reaction score
8,524
Location
AZ
What is the best way to go for cooling? I would like some advice and ideas from those who have tried these items out.

I have the DB2 so dual stats would be an expensive pain.

I am looking at the low temp Kennedy Diesel fan clutch and 20" fan and a high output pump.

Or just get Heath Diesel's kit.

I don't mind the fan running as it helps the AC out here. (Some hate a noisy fan running, I am not one of those...)

Not sure what way to go on the T-stat 180 or stock temp esp with a low turn on fan clutch. The stock stat is so close to the 215 limit fully open...

The high 115+ temps here and towing are a concern. 28' race trailer or 18' jet boat.

I already have the transmission on a separate large air to oil cooler bypassing the radiator tank.

I get dealer wholesale prices on parts so I can order what I like from a GM dealer stock cheap. (So Heath looks very expensive to me.)
 
Heath offers a kit for the single stat trucks (big writeup in maxxtorque, I think one issue befor current) that covers this upgrade. uses a decent amount of GM parts, so with your discount, i think that would be the best route.
 
Stay single t-stat and there is no mod necessary for the 2000 pump. Get the best spin on fan & clutch. Price it up with your discount and compare to Heath and Rock Auto and go from there. You'll need the Fel Pro Gasket Kit and the T-Stats too. Heath uses the AC Delco stock 195s.
 
I'd start by removing radiator, cleaning it with scrubbing bubbles until spotless, then modify your existing fan clutch.

Search for "DIY FAN CLUTCH MOD".

Then I would try out the system before spending coin.

I have my self modified fan kicking on around 205. Cools down in a hurry with stock fan once engaged. I moved it about 1/4 "
 
x2 what matt said. Gm parts even with a huge discount are overpriced. I just got a new bosch ho water pump for less than $70 from rock auto. Kennedy reccemends the steel fan.
Heath does restrict the bypass. That forces more coolant threw the rad.
 
How old is the radiator? I just replaced mine with a new one and it made a big difference on the temperature gauge.

If you can not afford a new one clean the old one out real good with it out of the truck with scrubbing bubbles. Do not forget the other coolers behind the grill.

I believe it was stated above but, check out the fan mod.
 
Cleaned radiator, 180° F thermostat from Kennedy Diesel and the fan clutch mod ! No more probs. Pulling 5 tons and temp never exceed 185°F. Stays at 180°F if driving empty.

Cu,
Sven
 
Does the lower 180 temp t-stat help? How much does it hurt economy?

Fan clutch is soaked in it's own blood so it will have to be changed. Radiator was recently repaired for a leak - has metal tanks.
 
Warwagon,

I went with the 180 degree stats, and my economy went down more than 2 MPG. The school of thought is that the temp starts lower so there is more cushion for the system to get control of the temp.
 
On my '93 i went 180 thermostat, got the SSD Dmax fan & HD clutch combo, and used the '97 HO pump that bolts the fan-clutch on instead of the spin on type. Cleaned both the A/C condensor and radiator good and since then i haven't seen mine above 200F even when it's 99F outside and pulling 8500 lbs.
Don
 
The 180F stat will get the cooling water flowing a tad quicker into the radiator.

If The Radiator is clogged up internally or externally the 180 is not gonna do much.

As far as economy goes I can't tell any difference at all.

When I rebuilt the engine in DaHooooley I used a 180F stat in the single stat xover and used the stock type pump (None HO)

For what I use the rig for I decided that with the new radiator and everything clean and new that it would be fine just as it came from the General.

The temp runs up to 190 on the (aftermarket gauge) and then drops to 180 and back and forth as the stat opens and closes.

I think that for someone who tows heavy and especially in Hot climates that the dual stat Xover along with the HO pump and either the late 6.5 fan and clutch or a unit from Kennedy is the ticket.

A new Visteon radiator is a good thing too especially if your old one has bunches of miles on it.

I finally cut the one open that came out of DaHoooley
The thing was nasty on the inside with many tubes plugged up with zero flow.

I removed the RH tank and ran water through from the LH side. The lower rows of tubes were mostly plugged with several tubes in the center area plugged as well.

The finned areas where the air passes had a lot of crap embedded deep into the core that could not really be seen well with the radaitor in the chassis.

I had considered having the unit cleaned but the cost was so close to the price of the new (Factory quality or better) Visteon replacement that it was a no brainer.

The new radiator was $265 wholesale to my company so Phhhhht. Just drop in the fresh one and off to the rodeo.

The AC condenser was also badly clogged deep in the fins so a good deep cleaning with the hot washer on LOW pressure along with simple green or whatever form of mild cleaner was in order.

A WORD OF CAUTION ON RADIATORS

Many of the aftermarket replacement radiators that are priced "RIGHT" are NO GOOD

Many new radiators have the tubes epoxied into the header plates.

If a crack develops around a tube that results in a leak there is nothing that can be done that will result in a lasting fix.

The factory units as well as the Visteon (And there may well be others) have the tubes aluminum brazed into the headers.

These units are OEM quality and will give great service.

Another thing that happens on these factory aluminum/plastic radiators is that the top hose bib can and does crack and break off just inside the area of the hose clamp.

Many times it will result in a little leak that shows up on the ground or it can blow off under pressure leaving you stranded.

My 94 Burb did the most desirable failure (if there is one) and started dripping on the ground.

A quick inspection found the issue and I replaced the unit with a new radiator.

Tanks can be replaced on these but, the cost is not all that much of a savings and the reliability is ????????????? some times the tabs break off when they are recrimped.


Just some observations
 
Yes, Missy pretty much covers it all.

I'm in the middle of installing the Heath cooling upgrade, though experiencing problems with the engine after replacing the timing chain. In my relatively short drive I watched the temp climb to 205 and the fan kicked in and quickly cooled it down to 190. Then it sort of fluctuates from 190 to 200. Having removed a couple 180 t-stats from the crossover, I'm used to seeing the temp pegged at just below 185 for 90% of my driving. It's that 5% of the time navigating tough grades in high ambient temps where my temp would climb over 210 that I was seeking to address.

As to claims of fuel efficiency at the higher operating temps with the stock t-stats, I've run both and also call BS on this claim. For the record, Heath recommend the stock 190 or 195 AC Delco T-stats, but advised me to keep my 180s in case I did not like the result. So the jury is still out on this. I kind like a steady temp versus one that's moving around like a boost gauge.:eek:
 
:thumbsup: Wow good info and things I did not think about.

I read about issues where the low temp Kennedy Diesel fan clutch never kicks out? Anyone have this and like it?

I think I can put a brass plug into the bypass fitting and drill it out to get the restriction done. I'll price the pump and see how close it comes to Heath's price.

So looks like a single 180 T-Stat and HO pump upgrade. Fan and clutch upgrade still up for debate as to what one to use. My clutch is more or less bad, leaking.

I will have to straighten some fins and scrubbing bubbles on the radiators. Condenser fins look like a bad power wash episode...
 
WarWagon said:
Does the lower 180 temp t-stat help? How much does it hurt economy?

Fan clutch is soaked in it's own blood so it will have to be changed. Radiator was recently repaired for a leak - has metal tanks.
Click to expand...

Although GM and Heath both say the higher operating temp helps fuel economy, I think the fan continually cycling on and off adds load to the engine which will counter any benefit from the higher operating temp.
 
Keep us updated, please.
We've hashed and rehashed this topic (cooling/overheating) here many times.
I've got a well working system, and I push it. I load up and run the mountains of south California and Baja, Mexico, mostly in the summers.
Clean the coolers, keep 'em clean. I keep a bug screen in front now, wish I always had. Easier to flick 'em off daily.
Same with the cooling internals; KEEP 'EM CLEAN. Matt mentioned the RMI-25; looks like great stuff, so does Evans waterless coolant. I am running Evans in the 'burb with a zero pressure cap, and only had one incident over 205, and solved it by cleaning the bugs and gravel from the cooling stack (a/c cond., Rad., oil cooler, trans coolar). If your fan clutch is leaking, replace it. When it's hot, and you're out in the middle of nowhere, engine cooling can be a matter of life and death.
The big advantages to Evans are; IMO
1. no pressure to burst hoses or leak past gaskets.
2. no rust.
3. it's a better coolant, doesn't cavitate as easy, and adheres better to the surfaces.
4. non-toxic, so if it leaks, your favorite pets don't die (lost two to regular antifreeze).

Evans is pricey, and I don't sell it. One of the supporting vendors does (I pissed him off one time, I think; Sorry.), and other members use it too.
 
WarWagon said:
Does the lower 180 temp t-stat help? How much does it hurt economy?

Fan clutch is soaked in it's own blood so it will have to be changed. Radiator was recently repaired for a leak - has metal tanks.
Click to expand...

I couldn't remark any diff in fuel economy with th 180°F thermostat and also with the fan clutch mod. The only thing I saw, was that I know can pull loads/trailers, which I can't pull before, cauz before the engine would be overheating. And now, if pulling about 5 tons, okay, than the milage drops, but that will the load, not the thermostat and the fan clutch mod ! ):h


Cu,
Sven
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top