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1991 Chevrolet S-10

DieselCash

DieselCash

Trust but, verify
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I just picked up a 1991 Chevrolet S-10 for $500.

It runs and drives. Just needs a clutch and clutch master cylinder.

This will be my new little project for the next???

Pictures and more info to follow.
 
If it has a 5 speed in it you need to do some heavy duty work on the pivot point for the throwout bearing arm. GM has a TSB to put a grease zerk in for that pivot point as it binds up and runs the throwout bearing till it burns up. My 1992 with the 4 cylinder ate the throwout bearing several times even when new - under 16,000 miles on the OD.
 
WarWagon said:
If it has a 5 speed in it you need to do some heavy duty work on the pivot point for the throwout bearing arm. GM has a TSB to put a grease zerk in for that pivot point as it binds up and runs the throwout bearing till it burns up. My 1992 with the 4 cylinder ate the throwout bearing several times even when new - under 16,000 miles on the OD.
Click to expand...

Do you have a copy of this TSB? It is a 4 banger with the 5 speed.

The throw out bearing is making noise.

Whats crazy is I can get a clutch kit with a throw out bearing for $89. Just a throw out bearing is $29. Go figure!! :hello:
 
Oh, and if the heat shield is still on the exhaust pipe near the bend for the passenger floor pan - knock it off as it will rattle when the lower weld breaks again and again. Use header wrap to do the same thing silently and paint it with header paint for rust resistance.

This was 20 years ago. This is from a later year, but issue is similar or the same. I recall the housing had to be drilled and the zerk installed so this may be the difference in the older TSB. The zerk was not present on 1992 years for sure. Noise with foot off the clutch. WILL DRIVE YOU NUTS!!!

Bulletin No.: 56-73-01

Date: February, 1995

SUBJECT:
Clutch Pedal Squeak Noise (Install Greaseable Ball Stud)



MODELS:
1994-95 Chevrolet and GMC Truck C/K 1, 2 and S/T Models
with NV3500 5-Speed Manual Transmission (RPOs MG5, MY2, M50)

CONDITION

A squeak noise may come from the clutch area when the clutch pedal is fully released (foot off the clutch pedal) and the engine is running. This squeak will stop when slight pressure is placed on the clutch pedal. This noise may be confused with a squeaking or noisy clutch release bearing.

CAUSE

This noise is usually caused by a dry clutch fork ball stud which causes metal to metal contact with the clutch fork. The grease fitting was removed in production for the 1994 and 1995 model years so the joint is no longer greaseable.

CORRECTION

Install a greaseable ball stud.
 
You would have to beat the fenders out and do something drastic with the front suspension for a 6.2 to fit and not pop the 14" front tires...

They did make a 2.2 Isuzu diesel S-10...

Someone already put a Duramax in one...
http://www.bankspower.com/dieseldragtruck/
 
There was a 6.5 in one here in SE Ok and he pulled the 6.5 and dropped in a Dmax, not sure if he ever finished it. It was a 4x4 lifted with sas.
 
Not done with it yet last I heard, but he's getting close. His truck is pretty custom though right down to his own frame. He's a member here as well, but doesn't check in often.
 
I sold this to a buddy that needs a vehicle worst than me for what I payed for it. The deal was I had to fix it. Win for win! :thumbsup:

I enjoy working on stuff when I do not have to use my money.

I have been working on the breaks and rear end. All of the rear brake lines from the front all the way to be back had to be replaced. I also had to replace a wheel bearing seal. It looked like the brakes in the back has not worked in a long time.

The clutch is still not working. I bleed it a month or so ago. When I finally put it back on the ground it was back to its usual self. It now does not even give me the time to get the clutch out to drive away. It does it all by itself. Here is what I am working with.

This is what hold the fluid and feeds it to the part the pedal connects to with a rubber hose.
Fluid 1.jpg

Then the rubber line goes to this.
Clutch 1.jpg

Then from here is goes by metal line the the part that pushes or pull the clutch.

My question is what part do yall think is causing the clutch failure? I am hoping it is the rubber line.
 
If it is engaging as you hold the clutch in, then you are leaking or bleeding off pressure somewhere. Either it is a bad slave cylinder, bad master cylinder, or a leak in the line going in between the master and slave. Spray everything down with brake cleaner to clean off all residue, and then use the clutch a few times and look for fluid leaks. If it is still engaging by itself, but not losing fluid, you have a bad master cylinder.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
If it is engaging as you hold the clutch in, then you are leaking or bleeding off pressure somewhere. Either it is a bad slave cylinder, bad master cylinder, or a leak in the line going in between the master and slave. Spray everything down with brake cleaner to clean off all residue, and then use the clutch a few times and look for fluid leaks. If it is still engaging by itself, but not losing fluid, you have a bad master cylinder.
Click to expand...

I will give that a try, Thanks! :thumbsup:
 
It was the line. The one that went from the clutch master cylinder to the slave cylinder.

Took the old one off and ordered a new one.

I feel for y'all folks that live in the salt belt. This truck was up there and that salt crap makes a mess of things.
 
I finally got this clutch bled. :thumbsup:

You have to bleed it backwards. Honestly, the bleeder screw is there for decoration purpose only.

To bleed it you get a pry bar on the end of the slave cylinder and push the fluid up to the reservoir tank.

Doing this pushes the air back up in the reservoir tank.

From what I see the reservoir tank line to the clutch master cylinder to the master to slave line to the clutch slave cylinder is too in-line with each other. This makes it impossible to bleed properly.
 
I've done some of these before on Rangers where you have to bleed it all on a bench with a funky arrangement of hoses to get em bleed out.
 
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