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1982 6.2 injector options

H

huntingman2706217

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I can find remans all day long on ebay and everywhere else for them but i was trying to find someone or somewhere to get ahold of a set of 82 course thread injectors with a little more power gains... just turned over 100k today on the original injectors... but i got a hard start issue im trying to get rid of so figured why not?

Thanks!
 
What makes you think the injectors are at fault? Any abnormal ticks or knocks? Could be as simple as glow plugs, GP relay, air in system (possible lift pump issue) or starting system problem (slow cranking rpm).
 
When accelerating and it's still a a little cold it's kinda jumpy... your right though it may not be... The PO put the glow plugs on a dang toggle switch which i hate... rather everrything work like its suppose to... All glow plugs are new... I'm new to the 6.2s and got a lot to learn with them... built a could cummins but not sure how close they relate... oh and both batterys are new with proper cca's... I didnt know these trucks had a lift pump... got lots of reading to do I guess... lol
 
On the glowplugs use only Bosch duratems or AC Delco 60g.

Do not use starting fluid! Way high chance for engine damage, ruins glowplugs first time, etc.

Quick test for hard starting when hot is when it is doing the problem hop out and pour cold water on the ip. If that fixes the problem then it is usually a worn out ip. Don't just grab a rebuilt one, lots of scammers out there that don't rebuild them 100%. The guys here will speak up if that's the problem on who to trust.

For air in the system, replace the 1/4" x about 4" long ip return line that comes out the front of the ip with clear line. You can see the bubbles. There will always be a tiny bubble in there- that's ok, your looking for a stream of bubbles. Bleed air at the injectors just like the cummins.

Get a fuel pressure gauge with vacuum reading on it. Tap in between fuel filter and ip. Make it a permanent home. Catching a bad lift pump early will save the ip. The lift pump is flow on fail, so the engine will run, but it overloads the ip to pull from the tank.

Read all the stickys in 6.2 & 6.5 section before doing anything else. Well worth it. Going bac in time on this forum will take some time but will save lots of time and $.
 
thank yas! thats what i was just doing... had some spare time to reading on the lift pump... the PO bought the glow plugs im guessing from napa so i got no idea if they were the bosch or not... i went out to test ohms on two of them but either my little lowes meter sucks or somethings not right because i get like 20 different readings everytime i reconnect and the numbers never seem to settle... think ill order some anyway since they are cheap... i read about the clear tube thing also and will be doing that as well... as for the lift pump the cummins is setup the same way and i actually killed the IP on both trucks because of lift pump failure... i didnt know these trucks also had a lift pump and with that i never remember hearing any pumps turning waiting on my plugs to warm up...

also the plugs being on a toggle switch if they arnt the bosch plugs id bet money the new ones got burned up already... ill be switching it to a push button switch as well...

also the prior owner had mentioned the guy he got it from having to start with starting fluid... thats why he changed the glow plugs... im guessing this is probly why it now blows white smoke up until i get to full operating temps... idiots...
 
heck... im confused... everything i read i was looking to find a electric fuel pump... only found a mechanical on the front like a 350... then found coming off of the left and right hand tank selector switch another line running back to the rear suspension with a valve... no idea what i would use that for... i did however find a fuel leak... the rubber line from the fuel filter to the center part of the IP... its leaking on the injector pump side a little bit... course i cant get to it without pulling the intake... just my luck...

do the mechanical pumps fail often?
 
82 should have a mech pump like you described. Pumps do fail mech or electronic. New fuel is pretty dry by comparison to the old formula. Most are running 2 stroke oil or nd30wt in they're fuel

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ak diesel driver said:
82 should have a mech pump like you described. Pumps do fail mech or electronic. New fuel is pretty dry by comparison to the old formula. Most are running 2 stroke oil or nd30wt in they're fuel

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i understand they all can fail just wondering if its common and if itll fail in the open position as well... im not sure how to check if its working either now... i opened the valve on top of the water separator while it was running and not a thing happened lol
 
Yes it will flow on fail just like the electric pumps. With your last description, it is bad. Swap it just like you would the 350 and put on new line to fix the leak. Bleed the injectors and you should be good. I suggest picking up fuel line rated for biofuel, as it is the best. Even if you don't buy bio, a lot of places mix it in like an additive. Not all states are requiring stations to advertise less than 25%. That fuel leak you found is likely sucking air into the system and creating your hard start, along with the bad lift pump not keeping the prime up to the ip.

While you are replacing that line going to the ip from the filter, inline there is the place you want to have a pressure gauge. Even if you don't have the $ for the gauge right now put in the tee and plg it off for easy install later. The gauge to use is pressure/vacuum so you can see when your ip is exceeding your lift pump capacity.
 
Awesome thanks for the info... I can add the gauge no problem... so I'm guessing fuel should have been pouring out when I spun it open? Special brand I should use or just use whatever oreillys has?

The line from the filter to the center of the IP that's a pressure feed line?? With the filter being on it i first thought it was till I seen the rubber and hose clamps... then I figured return low pressure... but I don't see what a gauge on a return line would be worth so back to guessing it's a feed line with low pressure... what PSI should I be looking for so i can get the proper gauge?
 
Yeah, pressure from the lift pump to the filter, then filter to the ip. oriellys sells a gauge that's 30 psi and vacuum as a fuel pressure test kit for about $35. iirc 10 psi is the max you want for a mechanical ip. Somebody speak up if I bumped my head to hard. there will be a return line from the ip , and the injectors, and the fuel filter manager. they all tie together and return to the tank, no gauges needed there.

no brand I am aware of to make any difference.
 
10-4 sounds good... will do this week... any idea what the fuel dump looking valve on the back is for? Is that standard or a c30 dual tank thing only? Maybe a 82 thing lol... I gotta get in there and work on that passenger side soon too... tanks inop... sending unit acts crazy when flipped too...

I seen the return lines on the injectors piggy backing... they have been replaced and look new... just want to add zip ties or something cause they are just pushed on... maybe that way from the factory but I don't like it... lol

Thanks again man
 
it was mentioned the mechanical pumps feed 6-7 psi. (fuel) to the IP. electric ones are available in different pressure/flow ranges. I haven't personally researched this area yet, however, it was also mentioned 8 psi. (I think) and above may alter (advance) your timing. you may need to adjust your timing after the 12v lift pump install.
 
IMO go with 0-15 gauge. It will be easier to read.
If you do go electric the Walbro FRB-5 is a great choice and is flow on fail (but they never/rarly fail).
I have 2 in stock Let me know.
 
Check your engine oil for fuel. 1 in a million, but I have seen mechanical pumps fail and push fuel into the block.
 
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