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06 Jetta TDI belt tensioner bounce

is there any other material or epoxy type glue that would hold to stress better than JB weld? even some of those two part putty type epoxy? thinking the idea is filling the void that is missing from the splines on the input shaft so that it creates a type of lock grip similar to how a rock gets caught in a set of gears causing a unbreakable jam. In this case I think this jam is what I want to happen. Jamming is up so that it can't slip the gears.

iirc I don't think JB weld can handle pressure stress and crush into powder. Or at least that is my thinking.


My explanation of the dual mass flywheel on this car....
the flywheel doesn't have any clutches of sorts. it's a two part flywheel that acts as a coupler with a spring. it couples the engine and trans by bolting to the crank and connects the trans by the splines of the input shaft. the spring inside of the flywheel is sort of a dampener that works in the same way the springs do on a clutch disc in a manual trans clutch. Only without the disc. yeah I know it's German engineering, but if the flywheel was solid bolt face to spline coupler there would be unwanted jolting from the engine crank into the trans that would be felt at the wheel and eventually tear up the trans.
 
dbrannon79 said:
is there any other material or epoxy type glue that would hold to stress better than JB weld? even some of those two part putty type epoxy? thinking the idea is filling the void that is missing from the splines on the input shaft so that it creates a type of lock grip similar to how a rock gets caught in a set of gears causing a unbreakable jam. In this case I think this jam is what I want to happen. Jamming is up so that it can't slip the gears.

iirc I don't think JB weld can handle pressure stress and crush into powder. Or at least that is my thinking.


My explanation of the dual mass flywheel on this car....
the flywheel doesn't have any clutches of sorts. it's a two part flywheel that acts as a coupler with a spring. it couples the engine and trans by bolting to the crank and connects the trans by the splines of the input shaft. the spring inside of the flywheel is sort of a dampener that works in the same way the springs do on a clutch disc in a manual trans clutch. Only without the disc. yeah I know it's German engineering, but if the flywheel was solid bolt face to spline coupler there would be unwanted jolting from the engine crank into the trans that would be felt at the wheel and eventually tear up the trans.
Click to expand...
There is coatings that is applied with a torch. A powder form that when exposed to the flame of the apllication process turns to molten metal and is sort of like a brazing process except with a powder instead of a rod.
An old machinist here used that process to build up a drive axle from the back of a friends corvette, then machined it down to specs. That axle is still powering that vette 25 years later.
 
Might look in here.
I believe that Pete probably got his kit from Praxair that delivers in this area from Williston North Dakota.

Eutectic Powder

We cross reference Eutectic powder, we also have Sulzer Metco, Praxair, PAC, Stellite, Hoganas, Wal Colmonoy and Carpenter listings. Call us at 724-229-5791
www.thermalspraydepot.com
 
I dont know what it would take to concentrate the heat and spray to the top ridge of the splines.
Maybe some of that heat soak substance laid in the grooves and then it might be able to be scraped out after the spray on process is completed. 🤷‍♂️
 
The problem with flame spraying is the heat required and it will cover it all not just the peaks, so much more grinding would have to be done. I had some transmission dogs welded up and then I ground them down. Worked fine. Guy used drill bits for rod so they would be hard. It only had 3 dogs so it was pretty easy to grind.
 
@dbrannon79 You already have contact with the spline faces with no movement between the two parts. The JB Weld is just extending the contact surface between the two and also preventing the flywheel splines from riding up and over, further shearing them, the input shaft splines. Without movement, I don't see how the JB Weld could be "crushed into powder.
 
dbrannon79 said:
What about this stuff placed on the input shaft splines, sanded down to fit.

www.jbweld.com

SteelStik Epoxy Putty Stick

SteelStik is a hand-mixable, steel-reinforced, non-rusting epoxy putty that quickly repairs or rebuilds anything made of metal.
www.jbweld.com www.jbweld.com
Click to expand...
Yes, that would work well. Again, how much labor do you want to put into this vs. what is your end intention? If you want this vehicle for another 100+K miles, do it right and replace the input shaft/clutch pack. assembly. If you decide any more time/labor for a "patch it together fix" may mean you're doing this all over again in a year or two, just slap it together and get rid of it on eBay, Craig's List, Facebook Marketplace or as a trade-in at a local used car dealer for something else.
 
I suppose for starters I have some tiny drill bits all the way down in size made to clean out welding tips. I could try fitting the splines together and then take a few of those bits to try sizing just how much meat is missing on the spline tips or gauge whats left that is still holding them from slipping and skipping.

and like @Husker6.5 is saying just use the JB weld to fill the gaps to help prevent them from further shearing, throw it back together and run it.

when it strips out again I'll know it's trans replacement or torque converter replacement time. sell off the car cheap having the old flywheel to show the buyer what the problem is.
 
Looking on the face space for this particular jetta with a diesel brings up cars priced around 3500-5k some in much worse cosmetic condition. I could probably get 2-2500 for it being that otherwise it has been well taken care of with high mileage.

perfect project car for someone to convert to manual trans
 
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And the further advantage of the "pack the gaps" method after the flywheel has been fitted to the input shaft is that the JB Weld will bond to both surfaces - the input splines and the flywheel splines - further strengthening the mechanical connection between them.
 
Update: the Jetta is alive once again. At least it's back together and running!

I didn't do anything to the input shaft, no jb weld or anything. after fitting the flywheel on again it seems there is still a decent amount of spline left so I just slapped it back together tonight. I was honestly surprised at myself on how fast I got it all back up and running. I started on it around 5:30 this evening and had the tranny mounted by 7:45. After getting it all back together I did the first startup at midnight. she fired right up and purred like a diesel kitten lol no smoke from the tail pipe or even after running a bit from the engine.

it's been parked since October of 2021 and right now sounds very quiet. no clatter noise like it did before the flywheel broke ether. I haven't moved it out of the driveway yet but it goes in gear just fine and moves under it's own power. dash is lit up like a Christmas tree with the engine light, ABS, traction control, and a steering wheel symbol but otherwise is alive. I will have to drag out the laptop and run thought everything plus once it's ready to drive I will reset the ECM and put it into a re-learn so the trans will re-adapt to it's shift patterns. I read that you have to do this with components like this are replaced. with 230k showing on the odo. time will tell if it will survive and possibly go to my son for his first car.

LOL both him and my wife are fighting over it to drive haha. I wonder who's gonna win that battle.
 
Probably was all of the clattering. when my son-n-law got home from work I had it sitting there idling while I was recharging the AC. he walked around it with a grin and said "it's so quiet"!!

when my daughter got home from work, she was excited! (this was her first car, she used it going to college) she and her hubby took it for a cruise lol both her and I were afraid to "feed it the onions" and just putted around town. from what she told me, her hubby got out on the freeway and fed the onions to it and said it was fun... haha. the good thing is the car survived!

we've put about 60 miles on it already and seems to be going good now. Now I can go back to addressing the tensioner bouncing... which so far hasn't been an issue, I think a lot of that was coming from the jerking the engine from the slop in the flywheel. The belt seems to have a slight chirping squeak when the AC is running but I think that is due to me redneck engineering the alternator pulley which has one less grove in it than the rest of the pulleys when I snagged the alternator from the pick a part yard for it and ended up cutting off a single rib from the belt.

I need to order the right pulley and replace the belt, I think that will fix that issue.
 
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