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I decided to finally try the driver’s side exhaust manifold replacement. I removed the inner fender and plasma torched most of it and sawzalled the rest to get it removed. I tried welding nuts onto 2 of the easiest to reach bolt parts sticking out. After 4 broken welds on 1 & 2 on the other, I...

Just an update, it hasn’t missed since swapping the PMD. The exhaust however...

I just had my first experience with welding a stud onto a broken bolt. It was on my Tractors’s thermostat housing. I could get the bolt to partially turn, but then it would break off. This happened at least 5 times and I was about to order a new housing, but I cranked the flux welder to its...

I just had my first experience with welding a stud onto a broken bolt. It was on my Tractors’s thermostat housing. I could get the bolt to partially turn, but then it would break off. This happened at least 5 times and I was about to order a new housing, but I cranked the flux welder to its...

Can’t do anything about it now, though.

I can live with a pmd every few years, if that’s all. Truck is a 97 but only has 134K miles on it. And, it’s only a farm truck.

Yeah. It’s got a life time warranty through Leroy. The old one is mounted behind the battery & that’s why I put it on the bumper.

It finally started the popping again while I was hauling my tractor. I plugged the new pmd in, without mounting it to the new heat sink. No popping. Drove it 30 miles with no issues and then plugged the old one back in, started popping right away. However, the new pmd was very hot already. I let...

Are you saying to weld onto the stud part that’s sticking out from the old manifold?

My wiring seems cobbled.

It’s amazing how frustrating not getting a problem can be. I haven’t had the popping issue in the last half a dozen times I’ve driven it to include today when I pulled my tractor behind it. All I wanna do now is get it to happen and then pop the new PMD in to see if it changes anything...

I have not put the driver side harness on yet because I am debating cutting off the exhaust manifold and replacing. This is likely to involve a torch or in my case of plasma cutter. I am happy with the way the truck is been starting though, yesterday 25°F started on the first shot and today...

I can’t tell if they are bolts or studs. I found a YouTube that is pretty much like what I have. I would love to do it because the noise blows but it’s driveable. If I mess it up, I am screwed. I am having a hard time finding what to use for new bolts/studs and there seems to be a disagreement...

I think that I am going to let it ride like that for a while. I still want to get it popping and swap out the pmd’s to see if it helps. I am still curious as to why the current pmd has no resistor and why it runs without one?

Do you have to pull the engine to replace the exhaust manifolds or can you get to them by removing the tire and inner fender? Mine, especially the driver side, are in horrible shape. Everything is extremely rusty and I expect to break off the bolts. I am going to try that welding on a nut to...

It looks like it’s going to be a real pain to replace that harness. So, I cut the butt splice and soldered on spade connectors from the old harness to the harness that goes to the old PMD. It did not make it run any better or worse. Now I have to splice in a spade connector on my new PMD wiring...

I should have clarified it. The corrosion is at the end that plugs into the old pmd. The other end of that cable is butt-spliced at it’s connection (the pink wire is broken). I am seeing a harness online that appears to be this connection point, with a black wire ending in a terminal lug. At the...

Is there another connector end at the IP or does the harness end in a hard wired connection? I would like to just replace that harness so I can use the new lead with my new PMD.

There is also a black wire that comes up from the IP in the connector bundle that goes back in towards the engine and locks down tight somewhere. Maybe it’s a ground?

OK. The wiring harness from the pump has he pink wire broke at the connector, so it’s butt-spliced to the connector to the old pmd. The old pmd has no resistor and a small amount of corrosion on the connector terminals. I plugged the new one in and idle tested it. Both seemed to run the same...