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What type of hose is that? Btw, please fill out the signature line. This helps us with what rig it is and what modifications have been done- falls under the line: Help us help you.

We hope the rig does awesome for decades to come. Have your grandkid pop on here too whenever age appropriate to keep grandpa’s truck rollin. There’s just something special to a family rig.

I wouldn’t expect to feel much of a difference. This is more to keep the ip healthy.

Well if it is v8 with 6 speed- so it would need the afm delete if not done yet. If you can diy the delete it isn’t too bad. But paying a shop to do it is pricey. Imo if you diy: pull the engine down the new cam & lifters with plugging the oil feed for afm and different cover. The ecm can be...

Not placebo. All those symptoms are right in line with the line being loose.

Woohoo! Love it when a fix is just tightening something up. The reason the other intake manifold is better isn’t just to stop the flow of exhaust from going into the intake- but to stop the heat. The exhaust goes against the intake everywhere and gets it stupid hot. Think about a charge air...

https://hummernetworkforums.com/threads/free-engines%E2%80%A6.250838/ So I spoke to Grayman. He met with a guy who owned a hummer business and is selling the lot of hummer parts apparently. None of the UROVA parts are there- all that was sold long ago. This would be more a reseller business...

You can sign up there- its a good forum for some stuff like this. It’s free and even uses same platform as this one. The moderator there was (is?) a member here also. There’s a thread right now about a guy in Northern Nv who is working out a deal for a TON of 6.5 parts. The guy who owned...

Ds4, well taken care of, 270,000 is about it. Db2 if well taken care of can be 325,000. But many things shorten that life. And that is them working but not working well. Efficiency drops after 150,000 for both.

The cdr will lessen the vacuum/ allow higher pressure in the crank case. It does nothing to help extract the pressure. It only limits the amount of air flow going through it at higher rpm.

200 is ok. At 210 watch it closely. 220 pull over and let it cool. Catch can= oil catch can = oil seperator = Different names, same thing & is what collects the oil vapors, allows them to condense back to a liquid and be drained back into the engine or discarded. some guys rather just put in...

On the manifold for $25 BUY IT! Install it, only drive off road because otherwise you might break a rule of the epa, hiway patrol, barney fife, etc in your area- even though doing it is one the the best ways to preserve the life of your engine. Is that clear between those lines or still hazy…...

Different gear: This is your ip fuel return hose circled in white. It is the only 1/4” diameter line in the fuel system. This is the one to replace with clear tubing, monitoring it at a glance whenever the hood is open and whenever the engine isn’t running perfectly happens in a couple seconds...

Coming out of the crank case on your oil fill spout is the hose that feeds to your CDR. Thats the tuna can thing with the hoses on it above your alternator. Bypassing it with a hose that lets crankcase pressure go directly to the air rather than recirculating into the engine. Ok the book...

Doesn’t matter. We all heard it not running right. Having the resources doesn’t mean he spends it all or that whoever takes care of his car collection knows anything at all about 6.2/6.5. Heck, the military thinks it’s perfectly fine to run a 6.5 at 240°f. I catch flak from many of the...

So… Is that oil leaking from inbetween upper and lower intake manifolds? First I am addressing that . Wish I saw this before you reinstalled everything. Suggestions for it taken apart is: Plug intake ports as good as possible then Clean it all. Get intake manifold gaskets with block off plates...

Worn heavily; improperly adjusted; in need of maintenance.

My instinct was transfer case. I know you said it’s newly rebuilt- but that sounds a lot like stretched chain.

Thats a clapped out 6.2.