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I just use a garden hose & PurplePower on the carpets. . For bucket seats, peel & wash: . . For bench; same as the carpet: . . .

That's an expensive solution to a cheap problem. If you tear up the stock socket, you can replace it with any aftermarket socket - just transfer the wires. There are already screws like that thing has, but they're not inside a separate box - they're in the back of the connector.

Factory is between the horns & hood latch, and the cooling fan should keep the radiator heat away from it. This shows the pinout:

I prefer paint. I've come to love Rustoleum Primer/Sealer for steel right after sandblasting - it's amazing how well it works with or without topcoat. For Aluminum, I like Aluminum Cast Coat. . I haven't worried about any yet, but for seals, I'd use CRC (or some other name-brand) HD...

The alternator case & bracketry should be cleaned down to bare metal at each point of contact to provide a solid ground path from the battery (-) terminal to the diode plates. .

200 isn't "high heat". It's not even engine temperature, which is 500°F. I haven't tried any engine chrome, but this HH chrome is rated for 2,000°F, and it's very silvery: . The older blend was almost a match for real chrome. This came from a ~12-y.o. can labelled the same as the one...

That depends on the ambient temperature, how well your truck starts & runs at that temp, how long it takes the coolant to get to a comfortable temperature... I zip-tied my truck's cord to the inside of the bumper, tied the X-cord to something in the house, and always parked nose-in if I was...

Back when I was making dual alternator kits (I was told they fit '96-00), several people asked me about a similar kit for older trucks, so there IS a market for them (maybe not very big, though). I only had my '97 to work with, so I couldn't come up with anything for them - maybe you can, as a...

Click this thumbnail & read the caption:

This photo album contains a mod you don't need to do right now, but it also contains a lot of the info you're looking for: Use AT LEAST the same gauge (but not substantially larger) wire as the factory did for your alternator's output. The fusible link wire can protect the truck if the...

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Tighten the packing nut around the shaft, or remove it & the handle to replace the packing. You can also inspect the valve seat while it's open. But there's nothing special or magical about that cheap original valve. You can replace it with anything that can tolerate the diesel, heat, &...

What did you do with the pieces that came out? Unscrew one of the current bolts, and stick something in the hole to gauge its depth, like maybe a drinking straw.

You still didn't explain what exactly isn't working in the heater, or where the PMD is.

Power & ground are even closer at the alternator output - that doesn't make it a good place for a USB outlet. I wasn't asking where I could mount mine - you made yours the topic of this discussion. And no one suggested switches "all over the truck" - a switch on the dash, and another at the...

For the 4WD, click this and read the captions: What do you mean by "heater comes and goes"? The air blows hot then cold, or the air blows out a different location on the dash, or the air stops blowing even though the blower motor is still spinning, or the motor stops spinning? Read this...

If BOTH tires were sliding, then the parking brake wouldn't help. If ONE is sliding, that means the other is rolling through the diff. The parking brake stops both from rolling. And it will cost him $0 to prove me (us) wrong.

I'll say it one more time: parking brake.

Me? I've never wanted to buy them, so IDK. But I'd start in the JY. Maybe a parts store or dealership. Maybe a battery store. Plenty of places online, I'm sure - have you checked DelCity?

Parking nose-up will put more of the truck's (& engine's) weight onto the back tires. Using the e-brake will do more for you than engaging the front axle. This photo album contains everything I learned while converting my front axle: