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Well, it's been about 3 months. Have not lost any coolant since then (but still have residual pressure in the cooling system after the truck sits overnight). Guess will just keep an eye on it for now.

Does HF sell this? How many amps does it test at? Surely not 700-800?

He said the truck did not lack any electrical power... Meaning, I presume, it cranks well and lights aren't dim. We need a simple voltmeter measurement though.

Fishing is good but I don't fish (I hunt tho) and I do enjoy wrenching on my truck. The important experience here was that now I know stuff about the front suspension in this truck...

Right after start, at the alt or batteries (doesn't mater) it will be low - the batteries are charging. Wait 5 min then measure. It should be 13.8 volts. If its 12 its too low. Alt neefs replaced. The dash gauge in these trucks is a joke.

Take a voltmeter and measure voltage at any of the batteries. That gauge may be lying, it often does. If the gauge is lying, here's what I did to fix mine. Take the dash bezel out (it is only held by plastic tabs, pull and it will come right out. remove the wiring from any switches stuck in...

My normal maintenance, in the order of importance, is Air filter Oil change Fuel filter If you don't know when it was last changed, change the coolant. Then you have the list of things to take care of Relocate PMD to behind the front fender Get rid of the plastic "snorkle" Clean battery...

I finally got it done. The rubber boots on the driver side ball joints were all chewed up. The joints themselves seemed solid, so, if caught in time, replacing the dust boots will prolong the life of the joints. NOTE-- be really gentle with the pickle fork. Ideally you just put on a little...

I can get the new rubber boot around the upper joint with just the wheel and the caliper off. It looks like to get the lower ball joint out, I am going to have to do something about the half shaft, i.e. get it out of the way.

Ok guys thanks for all the feedback! I hear what you are all saying about the potential damage to the joint with the pickle fork. But I can't look at that rubber boot and not do something about it. I just won't sleep at night :) I'll try to figure out how to do it gently... Will an air...

Heh you really need that fuel heater in Baja :D

While replacing my front shocks, I noticed that the rubber boots on the ball joints were damaged. So, going to replace the boots (not the ball joints) while the bj themselves are decent, which they seem to be. So, I am thinking - remove the wheel - remove both cotter pins - unscrew both...

Well, if you have one with a lifetime warranty and one El Cheapo spare, then you should be all set. Extension cable to behind the front fender, and you swap it when it fails. How much do they want for one with lifetime warranty?

Yeah... It's like the bypass valve in any hydraulic system. A whine- like sound...

Update: the $10 spare pmd has been running great for a week now. Got a replacement today from Pensacola, so putting that in tonight. I want to mount the spare on it's own heatsink. Where do you guys get heatsinks?

Crankme yer a genius. So I find this stanadyne dealer here in Omaha, "Diesel Specialists", and I stop by around lunchtime. First he tells me that he does not have any used PMDs to sell, but then, when he realizes that I just want some to play around with, no warranty or strings attached, he...

Yeah this sounds like either the vac pump is not making vacuum, or the waste gate solenoid is faulty. The prefeprred (cetrainly most economical) way to deal with this is to buy or fashion your own Tubomaster. It is a purely mechanical device that gives the engine all the boost until a pre-set...

Well, the GMTDScan would sure be nice to have, but I don't think there's anyone in my area who's got one... So, for now, the suspect PMD is going to be exchanged. I have two used ones I picked up from a local Stanadyne dealer, will try them and see. Yeah Buddy I know what you're saying - I also...

How tough are these PMDs physically? When we mount them to the inside of the fender, does that cause them to get beaten up too much? What is it that detects the pulse width? I mean, for the computer to compare it with a reference value, it needs to read that width from some kind of a...

The fail code (SES) behavior is very consistent. With the suspect PMD plugged in: In park, idling, no code. Rev it up to about 2000 rpm, the code appears. Let it fall back to 700 rpm, code disappears. When driving, as soon as rpm reach about 1400, the code appears. Let it drop to below 1000...