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Sunbelt equipment/ brodcasting/ etc. Jim Rogers … the world is a better place with him dead now. Long unhappy stories of dealing with that crooked p.o.s. over the years. Just earlier tonight he was a topic of discussion. His companies run better w him gone too. I don’t mind renting stuff...

Yup- everything related to steering and suspension- the answer starts with getting all 4’tires off the ground and yanking, pull, force things around until you find the item with freeplay. Keep them well greased if greasable and when you return them- opt for sealed instead of greasable when possible.

Reusing the old atf is probably the better answer. When a trans is new and regularly gets the fluid changed, you get the longest life. If it goes way to long without a change- when you do it the new atf has so much cleaning detergent in it, that it will scrub the grime off everything and start...

It’s been way too long since I had to chase down this issue. Just because it’s free, ai would start with calling TCI. They might have a flow chart of diagnostics for you to go through before buying parts. If they aren’t any help- then it’s time for finding proper diagnostics order.

Nothing more permanent than a quick fix to get home! 😂 If you did get water in the fuel- the factory filter is maxed by time it turns on the light. Filter change now. This is the part where I promote FASS water separator filter. I like the fass LP with filters because it’s designed to work...

FSO doesn’t add up to me because that solenoid is either on or off. Plugging intermittent return line is a possibility- but doesn’t feel right with your description.

Plus it might be a cool mural!

Doing it on anything with a muffler or especially a cat- start by disconnecting the muffler/cat. Otherwise carbon that does break free is now gonna plug up in the exhaust. For doing intake, through the cylinders and out the exhaust- use water like a diy WMI set up. Doing a permanent WMI is a...

If it happens again, slip trans into neutral. If it still has low rpm- chasethe engine components like your thinking now. If shifting into neutral allows the rpm to return to normal - torque converter isn’t releasing

That’s price is nuts to me. Someone out there who can do the plastic/fiber ones could start making them and the insulation factor to keep the air cooler would be good. Im still used to these engines being $free.99 ! I was also thinking- just how guys diy headers- a diy intake would be...

1. Yes, some dual tank systems run the lift pump after the switching valve. Your switching valve should be a 4 line system that has supply & return for main tank- then switches to use supply and return for aux tank. You can NOT have one return line only to the main tank. Imagine it is full...

Engine off: While checking every joint is tight, and the rag joint in the column is good- have someone slow turn STEERING WHEEL left/right just a little bit in the freeplay and COMPARE movements on the PITMAN arm. If the wheel is moving, no loss in rag joint, and pitman doesn’t move- then it...

Yes, the 24v starter and the original H1 12volt starters are all HUGE direct drive starters that have a very different front support bracket & different 2 mounting bolts from starter to block. On Hmmwvs & Hummers they have a large enough exciter wire. I don’t remember on cucv.

For those who have ideas to make stuff but can’t get the metal cut accurately enough, or don’t want to deal with full sheets of it there is a place you can do drawings and they cut it out and ship to you. https://sendcutsend.com/ Member @CursedH1 here has used them for several things that he’s...

We were already talking pm, I mentioned the engine killing risk of the manual LP & gave EP158 or FASS recommendation. The 24v starter is great. All the way until you have to replace it. In the military- a report I read said #1 injury of wheeled mechanics was the 165# tires on hmmwvs. The...

Here is that thread. The guy “Ant” does not like me- pretty much hates me. So I suggest not mentioning me or he might not be helpful to you. I’m good at making people mad I suppose. https://hummernetworkforums.com/threads/the-long-awaited-6-speed-review.250198/

You should be good on those parts. Be 100% clear and note every fine detail with him. That is who the other guy dealt with and was supposed to be his test bed. I will find a link for you to read. You might sign up to the other forum I post the link to and send a PM to the guy explaining...

It is almost always a clutch that causes them to wear- Unless something drastically went wrong- sbc, bbc, 6.2/6.5 etc engines that are ridiculously high mileage - when it comes apart for a rebuild and it is an automatic trans, the thrust bearings are still well within tolerance. On manual trans...

Ok, I see now. Huge difference in flow from one brand to the next. My world is the DB2- so just a street T with the side tap in 1/8” is easy. The best fittings I have seen for the ds4 tapping the fuel gauge is found doing search on places like Summit racing- I couldn’t get link to copy right...

Welcome. Excited to see your rig come together, post tons of pics please