Search results

maybe this https://www.vwvortex.com/threads/3rd-brake-light-is-not-working-but-others-brake-light-work.9270405/

don't know if this will help..... https://www.instructables.com/2006-Jetta-3rd-brake-light-repair/

If it builds pressure in the return line it'll mess with our IPs

Does it have a table for something like an accelerator pump?

What year?

I'd get your mixture sorted out before deciding it's cooling system isn't up to snuff. Lean =heat

used to be able to buy deflectors to keep the oil from going everywhere when doing Will's method

I'd be talking to them about a reduction in property taxes since they just stole that land from you

are you sure your at TDC for firing? maybe 180* off

They didn't change the oil pan when they went to squirter blocks

I have to ask what's the stuff in the center of the intake. Looks like rocks

Should just be able to swap to the obd2 harness and a stock tune.

As I said earlier a band aid for loose bearings

What sensors are being used? You have OS, CPS, boost or pressure like a map

That's usually the way it works. It just suddenly works ok. If I was you I'd consider using OBD2 it doesn't have this issue

Might be a band aid for bearings being a little loose. Shouldn't be a pan issue

It's usually the PCM that get's stuck in that mode. If you had a different PCM you could get the IP adjusted and maybe that would kick the PCM loose

Was the engine warm?

Those OBD1 systems can be a bugger to get out of that -2.02 mode. If you set the IP so the top of it is level it should be in the ball park. Then start it and immediately try to do time set. No waiting at all. Might have to do the resistor mod to fool the ECM that it's up to temp.

I've seen the brass ones come loose. Never seen a steel one come loose, they can rust out if you have coolant issues