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A quick look at the RPO codes on the door of your glove box will tell you what gear ratio you have. This might help: GT1 : AXLE REAR, 2.56 RATIO GT2 : AXLE REAR, 2.29 RATIO GT4 : AXLE REAR, 3.73 RATIO (DUP WITH 5 X 1) GT5 : AXLE REAR, 4.10 RATIO (DUP WITH GT8) GT7 : AXLE REAR, 3.33 RATIO GT8 ...

I second the idea of the Gear Vendors overdrive unit. It will give you another .78 overdrive in addition to what you have now, not to mention that the rpm drop between the other gears will be much less, which keeps the truck closer to the power band. Assuming you have 30.5" tall tires, 3.73 rear...

I'm startin' to feel that way myself. McAfee is really startin' to bug me....no pun intended...I am never quite comfortable that the virus has been eliminated. And I don't even want to start with their support.

Cool! Thanks for the heads up. I used to listen to her all the time wen I lived in Indiana, but we don't get her around these parts. Thanks again!

I have been running McAfee and Sunbelt's CounterSpy (which worked really well) for the last few years on my PCs, but now CounterSpy has been sun setted. The new SunBelt product is Vipre, which is both Anti-virus/spyware. Anyways, I was wondering if anyone out there might recommend an...

No apologies needed, it's not like people don't have other lives or anything.:D Anyways, I saw some threads with info stating that you should change it, but also many threads that said no big deal using the black one. I don't have time right now to deal with a leak so I just bit the bullet...

Never mind, I bought the white one...:toetap05:

Go here for a good definition of the different types of differentials (you'll have to scroll down some): http://www.offroaders.com/tech/limited-slip-lockers-differentials.htm

In order to install a limited slip you would have to pull the rear cover, axles, and carrier. Don't let the Rear Locking Differential label confuse you, this is GM's "limited slip" unit although it really isn't in the truest sense. And, changing the whole axle only requires ratchet, sockets...

First, welcome aboard! I think you are on the right track with a complete axle from a wreckin' yard. however, you will only find rear locking differentials. These aren't really lockers as they lock and unlock depending on wheel speed, but replacing the complete axle is 10x easier than pulling...

I have done some searching and have found some threads that say a different type of vent cap is needed when going to synthetic fluid (Amsoil) in the front differential. I have also read some that say it is not needed and there are no issues. Any difinitive answer on this?

I would like a '72 chevy short-bed stepside on a 90 or 91 chevy 4x4 chasis with a 130 hp Cummins 4BT hooked to a maxed-out 700R4 (I'd settle for an NV4500)....just to bang around town. Oh, yeah, and a winning lotto ticket...:skep:

Muchas gracias Amigo!! :thumbsup: I guess I'm gettin' lazy not lookin' things up. It's just so much easier to ask on here, or search. :o

Balance rates?

Ashton, Sorry I haven't gotten back to you. My wife took the Suburban in to the dealership while I was out of town, and got the services done before I ordered the Amsoil stuff. Anyways, my '01 3500 is due for the front and rear diff fluid change. I am assuming that the Severe Gear 75w-90 is the...

EGT and Turbo boost.

It's definitely a possibility. And, if you are changing the sensor yourself it would probably be cheaper, and one more variable eliminated.

That's a little odd. I can't think of any reason that the sensor would kill the ABS after being replaced, especially since you said that you checked the fuse and all conections. I guess it's scann time unless somebody else has some ideas.

Also, is the ABS working? Or, is it that just the light is on? I tested mine on a gravel road, got a little speed up and jammed on the air. You should feel the vibration in the pedal if it's workin'.

When the wires rubbed through on the speed sensor it probably threw another code. Try starting it two or three times in a row, start it, shut it down, repeat twice and see if the light goes out, if not then get it scanned...it cost me $98 to get it scanned so try the free stuff first...also...