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Other consideration is charging rate/amperage for deep cycle batteries you can kill deep cycle batts with a chagrge rate being too fast, I run my camp on solar power using marine deep cycle batts AGM from a sailboat a buddy was parting out, and I "killed them" by using the wrong charger type...

PT what are you planning on doing with the truck that requires a fooler, can you update your signature line with current truck configuration, depending where you are in your setup a fooler may be premature just yet. Do you have gauges yet EGT & Boost at a minimum ? are my personal best...

Something not quite rite what psi you running on it, I'm 10-12 psi with my FRB-5 Walbro, what O-ring rubber you using, ? possibly wrong composition and the Diesel fuel is making it soft & skwishy and prematurely failing/leaking?

With a TM your boost will be where you set it, but if you hit a high IAT condition you will defuel, or hit a boost level the PCM does not expect to see at that rpm for X seconds 7psi or less should not code but may depending where you are on the programs tables boost-fuel-timing-rpm

You could also put on a boost fooler to prevent coding, before going into high boost operations 10+psi sustained, describe for us any mods or maintenance items you have done or know about recently performed on the vehicle in question. Just upping the boost may not be what you need to be doing...

I'd remove it in entirety, including the vac pump, generally 1" shorter belt than stock is what you will need once the vac pump is removed

PS Grey is what I run in every fill up, with a healthy glow system you should not need to run an additive, but considering what is being sold as "green fuel" these days additives especially on older Diesels that came into being before <15ppm sulfur fuels were around I personally think some sort...

I drilled a hole in the fire wall big enough to allow for expansion later if i wanted to add more wires/gauge tubing, put a rubber pass thru grommet in it the kind that has the groove for sheet metal to sit in, then when I pulled all my wires thru sealed it up with some RTV I could remove later...

How is your tach reading is it wrong diameter pulley on alt ? and possibly yes shorter belt, or a different brand that does not stretch so fast

How long you had the Heath program, his newer versions have "after glow" programmed in them and you can get several cycles of glow even with engine running

I have a 90 GMC C1500 SWB stepside currently with 4.3 V-6 with the 5 speed manual GETRAG transmission, planning on mating it to a 6.5 turbo engine, spent time with Bill Heath on the subject and he said he ran similarly set up without any issues, and said it was a "fun truck".

Thanks Nobby I missed that, Max E was what I was running before HP4 and I'm on like HP10 now :) even though Bill did not assign a number to program I'm running now.

That is a must do IMO; before going with that mod I was always falling off in the power band I would flat stop gaining momentum.

Good point, as the GM turbo was sized for stock HP levels/flow, but I'd still like to see the drive pressure numbers.

I had 2 gauges installed 1 permanently installed for boost, and a second tapped to the right bank collector just below the turbo entry to monitor the backpressure/drive pressure, with GM turbo once approaching 10 psi boost the back pressure with the GM waste gated turbo starts driving 2x the...

AFIK there are some tunes for the OBD-I HXs, I do not believe Bill has done any tweaking for the HX it was like pulling teeth to get him to tweak for the ATT, as far as the ATT being close to the HX if the "unbiased tester" is to be believed, apparently the tune is not close enough the HX tune...

Done

Can you update your signature to tell us what is the project, I'm a little confused was this a 6.2 engine swap into a truck that came with a 6.5 EFI IP/PCM/harness originally and you swapped over the 6.5 turbo parts onto the 6.2 engine ?

In order to make the engine brake work on an auto trans you also have to incorporate some sort of TCC lockup control, otherwise it will just slip and you will not have any dynamic braking effect from the engine as it will be decoupled more or less from drive line as the torque converter slips/

Off top of my noggin, the GM-3 is less efficient than the newer turbos and more back pressure impact in it than say a GM-8 does, IIRC the GM-3 is also a spring actuated WG, and a stiffer spring or a TM fully adjustable WG is what could have let it have more performance