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Can you make a video of it trying to start, post on YouTube and link it? That helps sometimes. Are you getting fuel out the metal injector lines? Do you have the clear tubing on the ip return line?

Start it and watch the fuel pressure & clear line.

THANKS NATE!

Oh, another option to think of- with power steering, ya might not need that large of a steering wheel. Momo, Grant, etc. you have to buy an adapter piece with each.

There’s a company called yearone.com that sells all the components for folks wanting original. I think they are nuts because even when I was skinny the gm bench seat was as uncomfortable as it gets… Squarebody floor is excellent (if not rusted). You can take some 1/4” flat bar that 2” wide...

34/78! That’s the numbers my brain was short circuiting on! Haha.

hilarious Jay- how did I miss that?! Does anyone have a current code?

Do you still have the horrible side post batteries. If so- do the bolt mod for now and plan out getting new larger battery cables (gm is cheap with copper) and get them top post. And obviously the new batteries will be top post. I wanna say group 31/78 but verify that.

Welcome. Yes a fuel leak - or points where air gets into the fuel line will cause hard starting, no starting, running rough, loss of power & mpg, etc. Just patching together or looking for upgrades where available is a primary question. Your fuel line (factory anyways) is 3/8” from tank...

None that I have found. I put it in each of my vehicles. The only one I haven’t is the tahoe we bought at auction and I am about to yank that engine 100% apart anyways. I have two Toyota v6, i had a tiny improvement in mpg on one 0.1 mpg, never measured the other one. I haven’t heard of...

You could do it from metalwork, but the metal will heat up from the engine heat. Imo the solution with the silicone 90°s seems far better to have good airflow and block the heat at the same time.

It’s a coin flip if it will help. There are other things that cause the smoking- over fuel especially like from bad injectors. But getting the mpg you said you did- they aren’t bad. You said the smoke smells like diesel fuel so 8 don’t expect engine oil or coolant either. So low...

Something I haven’t been seeing that surprises me- more guys getting factory air boxes from junkyard on brand new dmax/cummins/powerstroke that are built to flow enough air for 970 pounds of torque & 475hp. Call me silly but that should support 99% of 6.5 alive.

If you want the best version of it, look into: Water to air intercoolers. Cost more performs more. Colder air is more condensed oxygen. More oxygen lets you burn the fuel you have more efficient. And if you smash the fun pedal now even more fuel gets burned more efficiently so more...

Ok; that is some great numbers with those tires & that speed. Yes an intercooler is a good thing. Take measurements what would fit then mosey through the junkyard…

Wow. I know some years did it. Ive no clue which…

There is always the rhino liner option- no clue on cost. But i have seen where guy put duct tape on the back side of holes a baseball can go through and it looks mint when done.

Pressure gauge yet?

@bubbabilt That sounds like a rig I would like to see if you get a chance. As mentioned above yes the cam will work- same cam specs. There’s a stack of advice about the engine while ya have it apart if interested. Fun play on the ‘bilt btw.

Adding a turbo will need you to make an adjustment on the db2. Here is how. 1/8 to 1/4 turn is enough for most. You can go more, if it’s too much you just end up with a puff of black smoke when you take off from a stopsign under hard acceleration.