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So when i got home today i was going to drain some fuel from the bottom of the tanks... (i found the drains) but the PO cut the drains from the tank :mad2::nonod: So I did some wire digging, I found only one wire going to the tank I had dropped which I recall for sure, the other had this wire...

Hey dave, I agree I like my filter set up, the one by the fire wall takes a little while to change but its not bad. Everyone says the sensor is in the tank but I have had one of the tanks down before and the bed off, there is only one wire coming from the tank....This would be ohms for fuel...

alright thanks, ill drain some fuel this morning and let it sit all day. When I bought the "water Remover" i made sure it said for use with diesel but wasn't sure if it would really do anything lol. Im not sure where the water sensor is on this truck though, I understand that the fuel lubes...

yes if you have the correct tools and take your time you should be alright but its always a good practice to have a machinist check your work; someone who works with machining every day.

I agree with most everyone!! ARP studs are a plus but I wouldn't bother doing anything with the bottom end unless the engine is out so all demesnsions can be checked properly. things can get tweaked and without it being checked by a machinist you wont know. I would really like to have a p400 one...

I really need help figuring this one out. Today I changed the primary and secondary fuel filters (the round style) and put a bottle of water remover in each tank but the WIF light is still on. From everything I have read the WIF sensor on the 1982 6.2l trucks is in the tank. However my truck...

also when i turned the key after finishing the swap I got to see this for the first time. I tried to bleed the low side to see if it would go away but didn't so I figured it cant be much or there is a sensor problem. so i drove it around haven't noticed anything yet. Does anyone have a wiring...

Shifters... I need to find a smaller shift boot for the nv4500 the other one gets in the way of my 4x4 boot Trimming the cross member and welding in a new plate and capping the centers Cross member finished, front drive shaft would hit this before the notch The 3 inch spacer...

yeah i noticed some fluid seeping from the joint of the master but honestly Im not going to replace it until it doesn't work very well because I already cut the push rod shaft so its not like a can warranty it. Engine drop should be 3 degrees, I put a 3 inch square tubing spacer between the...

well you can pry on the fork through the hole! anyone know hail housing to transfer case torque spec? Also it looks like I need a spacer for the trans mount, looks to be about 3 inches that I need but I am not sure does anyone know the degrees the engine should tilt downward? (if measuring...

Yes that makes sense also. With the trans out I pulled the fork towards me which pushed the slave back in completely, ever since I bled it 2-3 times and pulled it back it has worked very well the throw out bearing makes contact very early and dis engages the clutch enough to be able to spin the...

my friends 93 was dual mass, that is how i know this clutch has less surface area ha. I was told by the P.O. mine had dual mass but it didn't. I also got the clutch to work this morning after getting fed up last night. I just find it really weird that in order to get it to work I have to pull...

alright will do, thanks. I also noticed the contact area of the 93 solid flywheel clutch is smaller much smaller then that of the 82 clutch and that the 93 dual mass clutch also had more contact area :thinking: I would try to run the 82 clutch but I have heard that someone was having a problem...

As some of you may know I have started the nv4500 swap in my 82 k20, anyhow I switched to a hydro clutch and a 93 6.5 clutch. The clutch petal has full master cylinder depression, a new clutch line ran and a new slave cylinder. I have bled all the air out and was having problems getting the fork...

I think all GM diesel/nv4500 solid flywheel clutches call for the damper. From one thing I read on quad 4x4 they said dodge had a lot of trouble with 5th gear because they didn't use a damper and I think dodge used a solid flywheel. I could switch to a dual mass flywheel/clutch but I'm not sure...

Hey everyone it has been awhile since I have gotten on here anyways I'm in the middle of swapping my 4 speed out for the nv4500 and had to fix the 5th gear nut as it was loose. I used the set screw style with red loctite. As I looked through the papers I got with the new solid flywheel and...

if your gonna spend 350 you should just buy a water to air inter cooler take a look at this http://www.frozenboost.com/index.php?cPath=216&osCsid=7dec78fa78eb9029760fc8a3edeefaf0

so any feed back on that cam?

yeah you could do is see if any has worked down to the bleeder it may help your problem jut my .02 before you tear the tranny down

you should fill the master cyl up, crack the bleeder on the slave and walk away for 5 min, come back see if any fluid is dripping if not walk away for 20 min or more and just keep checking on it. Or get a buddy to help you bleed the air out (if there is any)