Let me start by saying "Caution, this is a FORD!":eek:
So I bought myself a '78 Bronco over the summer and lifted, added TBI and wheeled the hell out of it.
Then I bought a very clean and mostly rust free '79 body and frame, which is why I bought the Suburban.
I am going to be doing a frame...
Look up the feed the beast mod, it allows more fuel to the IP by increasing the size of the fuel line. It won't use more fuel, but it is there if you need it.
And yes 15* will make all the difference, these engines can crack the heads or block at 215-220*
I can't wait to order the A Team Turbo.
Does the '95 have a different dash than the '94?
I asked Patrick about the rattle stops and was told they won't work on my '94. I have since found and corrected my dash issue.
You guys can send all of that OLD equipment to me, I will make sure it is disposed of properly :agreed::skep:
I had the same PPI amp running 2 15" Orion XTR subs
Decisions, Decisions! The ATT with the tune and blanket is $1200, this install would be ~$700 and a Heath Tune is what, $500?
When it comes down to it the ATT is actually less...
Curious on a couple of thing here. I am newish to these engines so tell me about the Diamond Eye exhaust for a 94 Burban 6.5T.
It states turbo back, do I need an additional down pipe or is that included in the kit?
And what is the turn around time on the exhaust and the PMD Relocation kit...
What is the turn around time on a new A-Team Turbo? I am hoping to order one the first week of March.
And if I order from Walking J with the KOJO tune will it have the same warranty?
So they lower the limits for new trucks (understandable) but they should not hold an older truck to newer truck standards.
In Utah anything made before the Opacity Test was adopted (1996) has NO test, after that the truck is held to the standard in place when it was built, same with gassers.