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Got one out by moving the bolt back and fourth with a breaker bar and hitting the end of the tapered bolt at the same time with a hammer. The other one is too close to the shock to do the same thing though. I have no punches and the crappy screwdriver won't stay on the end of that tappered bolt.

Got it with a 14" pipe wrench. Now I can't get the bolts out of the rubber bushings where it bolts to the frame... Thanks for the quick replies. I thought of doing the same thing you suggested 83 GMC. I ripped the rubber boot off the ball joint and got the pipe wrench in there though and worked...

Going to put on the cognito upper control arms. I loosened the nut on the factory ball joint and popped the ball joint loose with the pickle fork. Well i didn't loosen that nut enough before I popped the ball joint loose and now the nut spins with the ball joint shaft. The end of the ball joint...

I'm always up for picture whoring when asked.):h More pics if you click the link under my avatar picture. In the last pic my buddies old half ton had 9" of lift with 35's. Tires are 33x12.5R17 Mickey Thompson MTZ on 17X9 MKW wheels -12 offset, 4.53 backspace. Cranked torsion bars with...

I don't have and LBZ but I have a Predator and like it a lot. It seems to be faster than all the other plug in programmed trucks I've raced. My buddy has a Bully Dog and i whoop on him plus his truck is a little lighter bein just a reg cab. He runs his highest setting while I'm on 65.

Mickey Thompson MTZ if you're getting a mud tire. I can tear right through a muddy field.....they kick butt.

nice find

It was the inside pad...totally gone and so was the rotor. Weird I never heard the squealer.

Get a load of this! 750,000 miles!!!!!! :yikes: http://www.thedieselpage.com/duramax/750kduramaxc.htm :headbang:

I'm jealous of all you guys! My wife won't let me spend money on that stuff anymore. Should have waited a little longer on her ring!

You sold the car. :eek: Is the truck the new dd? :hijacked:

I think if I were to do it all over again I'd do the lift first then the wheels/tires. Those are the highest dollar items. Exhaust money and programmer money are easier to come up with. There's only a few hundred dollar difference between a 4" and 6" lift...save the money and do it right.....no...

Awesome. That thing must ride nice now....I'm patiently waiting until I'll be able to buy a lift for my truck so the cv angles can be improved and it can ride nicer again.

Since when did you have a 6" lift? "Shocks, pegs... Lucky!"

Don't mess with a body lift...the frame shows enough on the HD trucks already IMO. Why not just get a 6" suspension lift. If you just want to run 33's then I'd get a 4". I run 33's with cranked bars with basically stock suspension. Pics in my album.

I've been told they all come with them regardless of where they were sold.

X2 If you like art...paint a picture. :rolleyes5:

guess I'll look at it a little closer. thanks

I hear a grinding noise when slowing down...sounds like my brakes. I had all my wheels/tires off when doing a tire rotation and didn't see anything wrong with my pads or rotors. My passenger side rear wheel has a gold dust stuck hard to it. What is it from?

If you're ever back in town I know Seif would do it and a good job but idk how much. You might be able to get all that Linex done for not much more though.