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You don’t need to run a tank empty to get the mileage. You could constantly refill say at 1/2 tank. Just record fuel added each time. It measures to 3 decimal points. So it would be more accurate than the odometer really.

It’s all in the drag. I had a buddy that lived here with a 1992 k2500 6.5. He replaced his bad turbo with a gm6. He has db2 ip. My 95 has gm6 and db2. He runs 38X9 tires that measure at 36.75, my 37x12.50 tires are really 36.5 new and were worn down to 36.25” tall. So we swapped tires...

2wd with hiway tires and most important on old original diesel fuel. Modern fuel is a massive drop in mpg and lubrication. Trucks that get 25 on real diesel tend to get 20 on the new stuff.

Imo follow the diagnostics set forth by the ip manufacturer & GM. Start with the clear tube and get a pressure gauge taped at the ip inlet after the rubber hose. Most problems are found from these two items if done right. Tons of good ip, ecm, etc. have been replaced because of not following...

That theory is fine so long as he pays for your new engine. He doesn’t have 21.5:1 compression in his 454

NO NO NO !!!! It is there but is not attached to the starter!!! Fix this now!!!! Look atvtje circled part - that stud should go through the hole in the brace and have a lock washer and nut or nylock nut.

Is there anything you can do to force it to happen? Ideally a camera under the hood (old cell phone is a favorite) watching the ip return line that’s been replaced with clear tubing. Fuel pressure looks ok, are you watching it clearly when the drop in rpm occurs. A simple momentary drop...

@WarWagon I think said he verified his timing that way. Not I. I put an induction pickup timing tool and timing light on it. That test isn’t to check timing, it’s something else.

Sounds like you are on target, but did you verify with clear tubing out the ip fuel return line that there is no bubbles (air intrusion)? It’s 1/4” diameter, about 5” long. I have heard of guys replacing the optic by marking it and installing the new one in the exact spot and not having to...

45f is not real cold. But if it hit 45 for 2.5 hours, the engine will be 45-50 when you are starting it until 3 hours after sunrise-cold enough to put a little strain on starting.

The multiple cycles 4-5 will tell you 100% if it’s just a. Cold issue. I would suggest plugging in the block heater but can see your parking situation probably isn’t friendly to that.

When the engine is warmed up and you start it- any smoke then? Like- if you stopped somewhere for 1/2 hour lunch, when you start it to leave. Also next time in the morning you start it, do this: cycle the glows 4-5 times. Key on for glow plugs, dont start it but key off. Then immediately key...

It’s still shaking way too much. The timing marks lining up is correct IF the timing chain is brand new. But the timing chain stretches dramatically in these. That causes the camshaft, the valves and the injection to become retarded. Gm never followed it enough to come up with specified...

Yes the two green wires in your video. The start procedure GM forgot to add from Stanandyne who made the ip… Pedal to floor then release resets the external solenoid how it can sit at different positions on the stepping arm, and for the cruise on ones equipped. It also ensure throttle...

The two wires making the connection at the terminal is correct and stock. You need to start recording that video on the clear line before the engine starts in the morning. Fyi proper starting technique is push throttle pedal all the way to the floor once and then release before turning the key on.

I can’t think of something in that area for the yellow wire. Need a manual or schematic at this point. I feel like as soon as we see it, an “oh yeah” moment.

Your “oh-ohh” red wire is power to the fuel shut off solenoid. Key on send power to that solenoid and allows fuel to flow through the ip and keep it running. You unplug and engine should die. How to force run 6.2/6.5 is 12v to it & spin engine. If you cant shut off engine because it fails...

Nope. This always turns out WAY more expensive in the end. Rebuilding yours is the best answer. Sell the other one for some money to offset price a little.

Dag nab it whipper snapper! Sux that happened- but yes the right size pulley is critical for your engine because that alternator is where you get your tachometer. That tells transmission when to play nice and when to play mean. So lost a alt fan but saved a transmission in time. Letting...

All this other nonsense stuff like steering and brakes on the way of exhaust… just not right! That should help a good chunk, definitely need a flex in there for expansion under heat.