Recent content by minisub

Sorry I missed this. I had luck for many years by yanking the cover out enough to use a spade bit and put a hole in the cover centered on the shaft. After that, an occasional spritz of light lube (WD40 or such) on the end of the shaft made the squeal go away for months, perhaps even years at...

Mine started doing similar things and I still had a good vacuum pump. If I recall, I bypassed the solenoid and went straight from the pump to the actuator as a test. This was after replacing the solenoid with no improvement. Concluded that the issue was in the PCM. Ended up running it that way...

There have been a number of dual-bypass setups out there over the years. However, since I started following 6.5-oriented boards in '99 I have never seen a single remote setup that was "right" discovered or discussed. I found a good many years ago that the kevlar gloves with little rubber...

Ah yes, the elusive "heavy half..." ;)

I just spent all weekend with Fingers at the ALMS/Indy Car race. In the course of conversation, we of course discussed the fingersticks. He still makes them, and his failure rate is ridiculously low. The latest version is much thinner and more robust than the earlier ones. Frankly, most...

I didn't realize you guys had 2 piece shafts. My Tahoe and Dmax both have a single piece. So, dropping the shaft means no tail shaft in the t-case = oil loss. In a pinch for a few miles like I was in, no problem and I needed to change fluid anyway. With a two piece, I guess you could go...

I just did it a few weeks ago. 2 miles to the parts house and back and it pretty much drained the Transfer case in the Tahoe. I call it part of my rust prevention program... ;) I wouldn't want to go far without the shaft in place.

No, I am pretty sure not. Sorry to get you on that line, I just took a quick look at their site; saw the same face and threw that out there. The Perfomax seem to be all electronic/stepper motor guages. The ones I have are just basic mechanical ones. Fine for a 6.5 I think...

Their standard gauges are available with the black bezel and orange pointer that match nicely. This is the pyro I am using (part # R607VW) It is available with a different yellow and red range for pre-turbo installs. This one is for downpipe installs: This is the boost gauge I am using...

I think the ISSPRO Performax line is a good match.

They voluntarily un registered their stock with the SEC in October and the stock is currently trading at around a half a cent per share....The stock price chart is a sled ride straight down from the high of about 25 cents last March. When did Randy and the guy that was selling it on DP get...

I've had Kennedy's 3.5" system in mine since late '99 or early 2000. How does it compare to 4"? I have no idea. 4" for a Tahoe wasn't considered an option back in the Diesel Page days... It is a nice improvement over stock, and I cannot believe that most of it is still intact after all of...

Glad to be of help. My life these days seems to revolve around keeping 3 old JD garden tractors, a 1989 Evinrude 140 that spent all of its life in salt water and my Tahoe running. I have gotten pretty practiced at quickly finding diagrams and manuals/parts lists....

I have gone rubber on supply and return almost up to the firewall, painful at almost $10/foot for diesel compatible hose. I never did put the skid plate back on. The older the Tahoe gets, the more pieces of it end up in boxes in the garage instead of on the truck. It truly is an an experiment...

Bud, Looks like you might need part #1 in the diagram, part number 16010-ZE2-812 on the site I found this diagram. Might be Honda part #3511383. Found it for ~$12. Still seems steep for what appears to be an o-ring, although I guess you are getting all 3 on the bowl. - Tom