Recent content by DieselSlug

Ok, its most likely a MM1. I had the complete mechanical cable valved hydraulic version of the MM1 on my '94 Silverado. Is your A-frame setup parallel (or close to it) with the ground? This is the piece with the angle rams on the sides connecting the main blade pin to the headgear.

Mine does have a bolt on cutting edge. It does have a little wear on it but I've got a good 3/4-inch plus before the wear gets to the trip edge. The Fisher HT has a 75-degree "attack angle" properly outfitted, I do know some of the newer plows have 3 different adjustments. Per Fishers website...

I do, but only in minor situations. Do you run shoes on yours? I run them on mine, but at a setting that keeps the cutting edge about 1/2-inch above grade. When I have cars run through the snow and pack it down, then I have to plow with their tracks present, it does catch and chatter a bit...

Congrats on the family addition!

Time for adjustment.

The rear has a cover held on with 3 small screws. Once the screws are removed, swing the cover to the right and you can access both bulb pigtails.

I had hoped to paint the base plates, but im just not going to have time. More snow slated for Monday, leaving this afternoon only to get it back together. I shoulda been doing this over the past summer but procrastination bit me. I am liberally using anti sieze and Fluid Film. All the hardware...

Nutserts for the win, thanks all for the suggestions. Had to install them technically upside down, but it worked. Had to use 8-32 under the headlight (3x) and 10-32 for the side under the turn signal (3x) due to limited clearance. Had to bend some more plastics to re-install and it was tougher...

All plates are 1/16-inch thick (bottom pictured). I dont think its enough to just tap even with fine thread with how much I see these headlights wiggle. Going out today to check out the cheapie HF rivnut setter (more expensive one is out of stock....) I did get a set of 3/16 x 7/8 rivets...

I see what your saying, ive always wanted a nutsert kit. Contemplating if there is enough room for anything above (or below for that matter) on the inner plate. Its butt-tight to the housing. I actually struggled tonight to get it all back together dryfitted with just the thickness of the plates...

New issue, finding a 3/16 rivet of proper length. Loosely put together the thickness of plate, housing, gasket, and plate is 3/4-inch. So at a minimum I need a 3/4-inch long 3/16-inch diameter rivet. Not easy to get locally I am finding. So question, would a 3/4-inch long rivet be enough? I can...

I may have to grind the head some on the new traditional carriage bolts to help them sit in the valley plate properly, but its doable. My plan was to try and find stainless. If I cant to try and find at least a grade 5 or more. Im not too worried about the future in terms of rust for these as...

Of course tonight I take the Milwaukee Hulk impact to the plow lights at darn near 0-degrees out and buzz the 3 remaining bolts off. This was not an easy task,these aren't made to service. Lots of plastic bending, pressing, and trying to get the rivets out that are blinded right to the backs...

I think this may be the best option...

Took the boy to wrestling tonight, on the way back home I got a flashing check engine and could feel the engine run rougher. My SG2 wouldn't pick up the code for some reason. Got home and pulled plug wires, cylinder 6 was not arcing. This was a JY coil installed back in October 2025. Swapped out...