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provent

ak diesel driver

ak diesel driver

6.5 driver
Messages
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Location
alaska
Hi newbie to this site. My ? is about the provent (cdr aid). Someone else asked how it would work on high mileage trucks with more blowby. No one responded am curious if anyone knows. My truck has 205000 and still going strong but I get alot of oil thru the cdr. I've got all the parts for my intercooler but don't like the idea of it filling up with oil. thanx for your input
 
What kind of truck do you have? Details in the signature would help.

Some oil in through the CDR is expected.

Do you get a lot of blow by too?

If you think it is excessive oil, you might just need a new CDR.
 
CDRs are wear & tear item, also a test to see if working properly my CDR is still plumbed to the turbo inlet , quantify hi miles please.

Do you have an IC or thinking about getting one, been some recent developments for the 6.5 using a non WG turbo that does not need an IC to keep temps in check, you might have seen mention of it, ATT, we have a thread with all particulars
 
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96 gmc k2500 extra cab 4" exhaust marine injectors #9 resistor remote pmd pillar gauges lots of engine and tranny and trans heaters. Truck has 205000 miles replaced cdr about 15000 miles ago rebuilt my turbo 2x last time about 15000 miles ago. I use about 3-4 quarts of oil and most of it seems to be coming thru cdr. Don't know procedure for testing cdr. Would like to know how. best improvement I made on truck was exhaust
 
Hey AK go to user CP and put that info in your sig please, tranny heater ??? that is reverse of most of us with coolers, guess in AK you need more heat than cold.

use search and see if "CDR Test" in quotes comes up, I'm not sure if it's made it to our reference material yet, we haven't finished rebuilding what we left at the other site.
 
Easy CDR test, like on Bill's site: get a bucket of water and a 6-7' piece of clear tubing that will fit tightly on your dipstick tube - place bucket on ground by driver's-side front tire, remove dipstick, force clear tubing onto tube - start engine, let warm up - stick other end of tube in water bucket, note water level in tube at idle - rev engine to 2000rpm, noting water level in tube - water should rise about 2-3" above idle level - if water froths up like bucket of pirhana on a kitten, you got way too much blowby - CDR is flow-thru type vacuum regulator, limiting vacuum at turbo inlet to ~6"H20 at 2000rpm - other than that, it always allows blowby to flow into compressor inlet, where your engine burns the oily vapors off, achieving better fuel economy

And, that's the.....other....real.......side of the story.................................
 
Ok so now I know how to test the cdr how about an answer to the original ? Going to wait till it warms up a bit or until I can git wifes car out of the shop to test the cdr.It's warm here now only -10 this morning.
 
Do you run at high boost a lot, youve had the need to rebuild it twice? If youre sucking all that oil through there must be too much vacuum or the CDR is messed up.

What type of oil you run?
 
I rebuilt it once at about 130k then again at about 180k. I'm thinking my cat was getting plugged and put more stress on it. Before I did the 4" exhaust I was lucky to see 6psi and most of the time it sat on 0-2psi. After the exhaust wow my turbo really woke up, now I can get peak boost of 10-11psi (spikes) and 7psi no problem on a hill. Now the boost guage reads at least something most of the time. As far as oil in the summer I run 15-40 Delo 400 in the winter 10-30. My oil consumption only seemed to diminish when I rebuilt the turbo . Both times it had a fair amount of side play. Changing the cdr had no effect that I could tell.
 
The Provent won't eliminate blowby, 'speshully from a wore-out engine, but it will reduce the amount of oil in normal blowby vapors - first check is the shade-tree manometer test, as above ^ - if the water is bubbling and frothing, nothing is gonna help but new rings - other than that, the Provent is excellent in charge-air cooler service, keeping the sludge outta yer toobs

FYI: dirty air filter is first source of excessive oil consumption thru CDR.............
 
Turbine Doc said:
Hey AK go to user CP and put that info in your sig please, tranny heater ??? that is reverse of most of us with coolers, guess in AK you need more heat than cold.


Yeah when its -40 tranny oil is pretty thick been know to blow seals and lines.I only need it when I start the truck once it warms up then I'm back to keeping it cool.
I just got done reading the 23 pages on the att turbo thread great job on it I think I'll have to wait awile though. So I take it ,from what I read that maybe I should wait to put on my intercooler. Right now even without towing I can see 1100 pre tubo on a steep hill, if I pedal it.
Click to expand...
 
my 2cents I think I agree w buddy. I spend alot of time dealing with air hoses as a contractor. I'm looking at this from the standpoint of the intake snorkel it won't matter how much volume you push at it it will flow the same cfm at 15 psi with either turbo.
 
Ok so I did the shade tree blowby test and here are my results with engine idling it pulled water up about 1/4" at 2000 rpm it pulled it up about 1 1/2". So definetly not a new engine but not necessarily down and out either. So my next ? is is this within the realm of the provent?
 
Yes - double that draw to see ~3"H2O vacuum in a true dual leg manometer, well within specs
 
I bet it would work....It would freak me out to see half a qt. of oil in that container though....That being said, looking at my caked up turbo and rubber intake hose, doesn't make me feel all warm and fuzzy either.

GMCTD also recomended the earlier CDR setup that returns blowby and crankcase oil vapors right back to the oil fill tube. Now that sounds like a happy medium, Also it's nice to know that oil is getting back where it should be, if you find yourself a member of 'The Massive Blowby Club"

Do you need an application?
 
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