Remote Control Door Lock Receiver

[Big T]

I am trying to locate the remote control door lock receiver on my 1999 K2500. I need to due a voltage test on the “F” pin:



Some internet materials suggest the receiver is located under the dash on the right hand side of the steering column. I pulled two separate plugs there and they are not it. Other internet material suggests it’s behind the stereo. I’m asking the experts here where the hell is it?

I replaced the door lock actuator on the rear barn door because it stopped working. It was pretty rusted. The new one tested fine on direct voltage, but I get nothing once it’s installed. The GM manual has step by step tests which lead me to a vintage rest at the receiver, but I can’t find the receiver. All other doors work using the remote. Interior lights do not work using the remote.

 

[Glagulator]

The previous page of your FSM shows where it is. Pg. 8-725

 

[Big T]

The previous page of your FSM shows where it is. Pg. 8-725

It shows it, but does not show where:

 

[Big T]

Right side of steering column under dash, I see nothing on left side of depicted bracket:



Right side of that bracket, I see two plugs, neither of which look like the one in the picture. The first pic is the plug to a metal box attached to the bracket. Second is the plug to a plastic box attached to the bracket. Neither plugs are even close to what is shown in the pic.

 

[ak diesel driver]

Probably what you're seeing is the EVO/passlock module. Right above your right knee.

 

[Glagulator]

Should be in 1st photo. You may have the "luxury" setup.
Do you have a Body Control Module?
See pg. 8-589 FSM.

 

[Big T]

Should be in 1st photo. You may have the "luxury" setup.
Do you have a Body Control Module?
See pg. 8-589 FSM.

I will check tomorrow. Just learning how to use these manuals.

 

[dbrannon79]

has it ever in a previous ownership had any audio or alarm installed or removed? does the drivers door button or rear button actuate the rear door actuator? GM's wiring is funny. if there is a issue at ether switch that can cause it not to function. other than that, I would probe a test light to both leads and see if you get anything with the actuator disconnected. it might be a severed wire at the door hinge or bad ground back there.

 

[Big T]

has it ever in a previous ownership had any audio or alarm installed or removed? does the drivers door button or rear button actuate the rear door actuator? GM's wiring is funny. if there is a issue at ether switch that can cause it not to function. other than that, I would probe a test light to both leads and see if you get anything with the actuator disconnected. it might be a severed wire at the door hinge or bad ground back there.

No alarm installed or removed during my ownership and the rear actuator worked until recently.

Already probed the leads and contact buttons, no voltage. Took Emory cloth to the contact buttons at the door. Tested it with door closed (thus connecting the contact buttons) and nothing.

Manual says to test for voltage at the F pin of the receiver connector. Should be 12 volts there. If none, then there is an open circuit on ORN 540.

 

[Glagulator]

Not luxury. PITA to get to.

 

[Big T]

Not luxury. PITA to get to.

View attachment 95288

Here is my pic:



That metal box is all that I’ve got there. The plug has 3 rows of pins in it, while the shop manual shows a plug with two rows.

 

[dbrannon79]

If I understood the layout on the page you posted, the box your looking for is on the inside of the steel where the silver box in the pic above is on the outside. I don't think you can see or get at it with the column in place. it's buried way up in there!

 

[Glagulator]

That metal box is the speaker amp.
The receiver is a black plastic box on the other side of the metal bracket that the amp is mounted to.
The photo I posted with an arrow is one of your photos. 3rd photo post #4.
It's there or your keyless would not work.
First of all, if the other door locks work then there is nothing to check under the dash.
The first place there could be a problem is a connector behind the drivers side kick panel. The 2 wires that activate the cargo door lock motor are on that 8 pin black connector. Check voltage across pins “A” & “B” when the locks are activated. You should get 12v. that reverses polarity when going from open to close. Both “A” & “B” should be grounds when locks are not activated. “A” is a TAN wire & is unlock signal,
“B” is a GRY wire & is lock signal. The next place those 2 wires connect is to the cargo door jamb contactors.

 

[Big T]

That metal box is the speaker amp.
The receiver is a black plastic box on the other side of the metal bracket that the amp is mounted to.
The photo I posted with an arrow is one of your photos. 3rd photo post #4.
It's there or your keyless would not work.
First of all, if the other door locks work then there is nothing to check under the dash.
The first place there could be a problem is a connector behind the drivers side kick panel. The 2 wires that activate the cargo door lock motor are on that 8 pin black connector. Check voltage across pins “A” & “B” when the locks are activated. You should get 12v. that reverses polarity when going from open to close. Both “A” & “B” should be grounds when locks are not activated. “A” is a TAN wire & is unlock signal,
“B” is a GRY wire & is lock signal. The next place those 2 wires connect is to the cargo door jamb contactors.

View attachment 95294

Thank you. I have some recreational detour (river clean up and fishing) today and will get back at the truck electrical tomorrow.

 

[Big T]

That metal box is the speaker amp.
The receiver is a black plastic box on the other side of the metal bracket that the amp is mounted to.
The photo I posted with an arrow is one of your photos. 3rd photo post #4.
It's there or your keyless would not work.
First of all, if the other door locks work then there is nothing to check under the dash.
The first place there could be a problem is a connector behind the drivers side kick panel. The 2 wires that activate the cargo door lock motor are on that 8 pin black connector. Check voltage across pins “A” & “B” when the locks are activated. You should get 12v. that reverses polarity when going from open to close. Both “A” & “B” should be grounds when locks are not activated. “A” is a TAN wire & is unlock signal,
“B” is a GRY wire & is lock signal. The next place those 2 wires connect is to the cargo door jamb contactors.

View attachment 95294

I think I may get a BOGO out of this. I installed a Pioneer AVH-2550NEX head unit. Got everything work except the the speakers, where I only have the front tweeters working. I used a Metra Plug to the Pioneer Head unit plug. They say the wires are color matched, which should make it easy. There are wires for an amp, but I assumed that I did not have an amp and they are not connected.

Initially I was advised to cut the wires from the truck side Metra plug and crimp to Pioneer harness, but stopped after 3 wires and bought the Metra adapter plug. I cut the wires too close to the plug and tried to butt splice them back together and one failed. I tried to de-pin them and repair, but could only de-pin one. Finally I just bought a Metra pig tail plug for the truck side. It too said it was color matched, but not completely. None of the speaker wires are color matched to the Metra pig tail, but they are on the other side. One thing I did not connect were the wires for the amp because I assumed that I did not have one. I will address that tomorrow.

 

[dbrannon79]

does your burb have factory bose system? if so, the only speakers that are not powered by the bose system are the front tweeters. Be thankful that you don't have Can Bus on that burb.. having can bus which started in the early to mid 2000's means there are no "power" or "ground" wires in the entire vehicle! everything is run off frequency and talks back to the ECM!! my wife's trailblazer has the bose system and I found out I need two converter boxes to install an aftermarket stereo. one to talk to the bose amp, and another to talk to the ECM to get keyed power for the stereo!

My son's 2006 jetta also has can bus. talk about chasing you tail with what you think is a burned tail light bulb! even though all of the tali lights, running lights, park lamps and what not are wired in a series same as a "normal" car. if the PCM detects the incorrect resistance from a single bulb, it can literally shut that one bulb off making you think it's just burnt. I found out the hard way that you can't just stick a normal 3157 tail light bulb in the socket and let r rip... can't even use LED ones ether!! you have to use the German specific bulb in that car or else the PCM says "O, hell naw, I'll show you" connecting a VW scanner to the car, the PCM will actually tell you which bulb is out too!!

I have not seen nor heard other saying this for GM with can bus systems, but you almost have to be a rocket scientist to troubleshoot a Can Bus system LOL.

 

[jrsavoie]

does your burb have factory bose system? if so, the only speakers that are not powered by the bose system are the front tweeters. Be thankful that you don't have Can Bus on that burb.. having can bus which started in the early to mid 2000's means there are no "power" or "ground" wires in the entire vehicle! everything is run off frequency and talks back to the ECM!! my wife's trailblazer has the bose system and I found out I need two converter boxes to install an aftermarket stereo. one to talk to the bose amp, and another to talk to the ECM to get keyed power for the stereo!

My son's 2006 jetta also has can bus. talk about chasing you tail with what you think is a burned tail light bulb! even though all of the tali lights, running lights, park lamps and what not are wired in a series same as a "normal" car. if the PCM detects the incorrect resistance from a single bulb, it can literally shut that one bulb off making you think it's just burnt. I found out the hard way that you can't just stick a normal 3157 tail light bulb in the socket and let r rip... can't even use LED ones ether!! you have to use the German specific bulb in that car or else the PCM says "O, hell naw, I'll show you" connecting a VW scanner to the car, the PCM will actually tell you which bulb is out too!!

I have not seen nor heard other saying this for GM with can bus systems, but you almost have to be a rocket scientist to troubleshoot a Can Bus system LOL.

All the more reason to get a 1999 if I'm ever in the market again
I wonder if I'd still have a 99 if I haf got one bought when I tried

 

[Big T]

does your burb have factory bose system? if so, the only speakers that are not powered by the bose system are the front tweeters. Be thankful that you don't have Can Bus on that burb.. having can bus which started in the early to mid 2000's means there are no "power" or "ground" wires in the entire vehicle! everything is run off frequency and talks back to the ECM!! my wife's trailblazer has the bose system and I found out I need two converter boxes to install an aftermarket stereo. one to talk to the bose amp, and another to talk to the ECM to get keyed power for the stereo!

My son's 2006 jetta also has can bus. talk about chasing you tail with what you think is a burned tail light bulb! even though all of the tali lights, running lights, park lamps and what not are wired in a series same as a "normal" car. if the PCM detects the incorrect resistance from a single bulb, it can literally shut that one bulb off making you think it's just burnt. I found out the hard way that you can't just stick a normal 3157 tail light bulb in the socket and let r rip... can't even use LED ones ether!! you have to use the German specific bulb in that car or else the PCM says "O, hell naw, I'll show you" connecting a VW scanner to the car, the PCM will actually tell you which bulb is out too!!

I have not seen nor heard other saying this for GM with can bus systems, but you almost have to be a rocket scientist to troubleshoot a Can Bus system LOL.

I don’t know what system it has. It is a 1999, not early to mid-2000s which would make it a GMT-800.

 

[dbrannon79]

Run the RPO codes in the glove box to see if it has the bose system. I think on the older ones there is one wire on the stereo connector that needs power when the stereo is powered up for the amp to work if it has one. The stereo should send the power out from that wire into the harness, works the same for vehicles that had the power antenna. some of the aftermarket adapter plugs don't have that wire pinned in the connector. weirdly I found out that even between the 93 and the 95 I have even though the connectors are the same there were a couple of wires in the connector that were pinned reversed. iirc it was the acc and bat wires but I don't remember for sure. you might need to look up diagram for your burb and make sure the adapter plug is pinned correctly. when I installed stereos in my trucks I had ordered the adapters from the jungle site, both showed to fit a wide range of years but GM seems to like to switch things around and use the same plug, that or it's the bastardized 95 model, a one year only for a lot of things!!

if it's like our trailblazer, I found out that in the front doors the speakers are not normal speakers but subwoofers and the little ones (tweaters) carry the normal sounds. the back speakers are normal but still powered by the amp. one of the subs in the front door is blown and rattles. those in the trailblazer are 2 ohm subs which aren't available aftermarket. only way to get one is through the GM dealer or find a working one in the junk yard or gut the entire system and re-wire it for regular speakers!

 

[dbrannon79]

Oh yeah if your burb has On-Star, you'll also need a module for that too for the speakers to work properly.

One thing I learned about can bus too is when you turn the key to start the engine.... most when you turn to crank it cranks till YOU let go of the key. on a can bus system when you turn to crank and you let go, if the engine hasn't fired up it will continue to crank till it starts or the ECM times out saying it's not gonna start! try that on your 4-runner sometime. just tap the crank and let the key go quick like, see if it continues to crank till it starts!