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How do you all get 6.2s to 300K miles

The reflection blocks temperature gauge so can’t tell there but low coolant light scares me.
Every thing else looks good.

The smoke on start up looks like oil which is indicating tired rings that maybe got heated up a bit too much if not high mileage. Maybe valve guides letting oil past. If valve guides then it’s usually worse in the morning, minimal at slow rpm drive but medium amount at higher rpm.

Back to the question about removing intake for fuel pressure gauge- yes. Some guys get a 12” piece of stainless steel tubing into the ip, then add the T and the hose attached there.

I am bad about “while you’re at it…”. The fuel system is 3/8” up to the filter then drops to 5/16” to the ip. The cone on the back of your db 2 unscrews. You can use a carbide drill bit & tap it to 3/8” or buy the one for the Ford which is 3/8” already.
The larger size gives a noticeable feel of acceleration to most folks, definitely helps the ip with longer life as the fuel is what cools and lubricates the ip. Whoever added the turbo to your truck might have already done this. If not-look into cost and decide if the minor gains is worth the time & expense to you.
 
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Will L. said:
The reflection blocks temperature gauge so can’t tell there but low coolant light scares me.
Every thing else looks good.

The smoke on start up looks like oil which is indicating tired rings that maybe got heated up a bit too much if not high mileage. Maybe valve guides letting oil past. If valve guides then it’s usually worse in the morning, minimal at slow rpm drive but medium amount at higher rpm.

Back to the question about removing intake for fuel pressure gauge- yes. Some guys get a 12” piece of stainless steel tubing into the ip, then add the T and the hose attached there.

I am bad about “while you’re at it…”. The fuel system is 3/8” up to the filter then drops to 5/16” to the ip. The cone on the back of your db 2 unscrews. You can use a carbide drill bit & tap it to 3/8” or buy the one for the Ford which is 3/8” already.
The larger size gives a noticeable feel of acceleration to most folks, definitely helps the ip with longer life as the fuel is what cools and lubricates the ip. Whoever added the turbo to your truck might have already done this. If not-look into cost and decide if the minor gains is worth the time & expense to you.
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1. Whoops, the guage was at the 185-190 temp range, the new radiator really is showing its worth. Even when going to Colorado and on that trip in general it did not go past 200, that being said, there were times where it would stay on 200 on the dot, with the EGT being at 9 or 10

2. More than likely that, it doesn't smoke like that throughout the day, only when starting up after long periods of time (overnight, etc)

3. Wait, what about the intake?
 
nycxjeremyy said:
Welp, my water pump is possibly going out, seems to be leaking from the weep hole behind the pulley.

photos.app.goo.gl

2 new videos · Tuesday, Jun 10 ð¬

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photos.app.goo.gl photos.app.goo.gl

Any recommendations for a solid replacement? and anything I should look at while im back there?
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Timing chain and sprockets, or, go for the gusto and order in the timing keeper set from Leroy Diesel.
Removes the chain and sprockets and replaces them with a gear set that most likely will never need to be replaced and timing between the pump and the pistons will never be off again.
 
nycxjeremyy said:
I think I may get this one, lmk yall

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I can't givevan opinion on your water pumps.
I don't know what's available or how they hold up.

I always tried sticking with new ACDELCO

I stay away from Rockauto. No customer service if you have any issue with the water pump - that's my experience, anyway.

Rockauto was all good until it wasn't.
After that I have been very reluctant to order again.
 
So I found these two:

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flowkoolerwaterpumps.com

1895 1982-1993 Chevy GMC 6.2L Diesel CW water pump

Flowkooler's hi flow water pump 1895 is design to stop overheating in the 6.2L Diesel. Its has a CNC machined billet impeller designed with an increased vane count and a reduced plate-to-impeller clearance to achieve greater flow rates, higher head pressure and a more efficient flow than other...
flowkoolerwaterpumps.com flowkoolerwaterpumps.com

Not sure what to think of them though, I was told flowkooler was a good brand, but that is an ACDelco one too, any thoughts?

Just want to get the right one and knock it out without having to do so again
 
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I have a new flo kooler pump setting here, never installed.
@Will L has been involved in extensive studies about coolant pumps and what works.
The AC Delco balanced flow pump is the one that GM finally developed for these engines and they really do work.
On Amazon there is AC Delco authorized dealers. Thats where I got my last pump through.
 
Cant believe im stressing over a damn water pump replacement, but, rather do it right the first time and not do it again due to some cheap one I buy.

The gates one from rockauto is lowkey looking nice, but if the ACDELCO one from Amazon (could be eBay for all i care) is indeed a genuine GM one,.ill take that one, or maybe the flokooler one.

Decisions, Decisions.

That being said, like I said, I dont tow or anything, so maybe the high flow cooler one is a tad bit overkill, dont want to make the motor run too cool now
 
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