nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
Guess I'll add this to the stuff I'll need to check next weekend on pass
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Eratic behavior from an 85' 6.2 (more below) requesting help please (Two vids in one)
- Thread starter nycxjeremyy
- Start date
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
that part is cheap enough to get another one to install along with keeping a good spare in the rig in case you need it on the side of the road!
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Ok, when that starter finishes burning out - you almost did it there- don’t buy a regular starter- powermaster 9052. Crank times to keep starters alive:
30 seconds on
30 seconds off
30 seconds on
30 seconds off
30 seconds on
30 MINUTES off
Your buddy is possibly right - but misdiagnosed ip (injector pump) is the most common error that had more mechanic shops in court for gm than any other gm item. You HAVE TO DO the clear line test first, along with the fuel pressure at the ip inlet. Get the fuel pressure gauge tapped in after all the rubber lines. Not one inch of old fuel line between the gauge T and the ip.
Pull a sample of fuel (one pint minimum) from the water in fuel drain into a glass container and let it sit undisturbed for 10-12 hours then inspect for contamination.
LP (Lift Pump) GM ditched the mechanical LP on these engines because of a few issues. The main one is when the bladder has a minor tear the engine can still run but the pump is leaking fuel into the crank case. Thousands of engines replaced under warranty. I don’t remember the year it went away but remember my 88 they were gone. I have been told they solved the issue, never was able to verify. It would be nice if so for the db2 ip as it is adequate fuel delivery.
If you remove the pump, also remove the push rod that will slide out automatically. A simple block off plate to seal the oil leak bolts on just like the ones for small block and big block chevy uses. If you choose to continue running the mechanical lift pump, frequently smell your dipstick for diesel. If you smell it don’t run it, replace LP and do oil change immediately.
The best of the $100ish inline pumps like the one Doug posted is the AC Delco EP158. Run it off 10 awg wire with a fuse and relay activated when the ignition is on. Later year trucks run them off an oil pressure sensor. This is often touted as part of the dot regulation that came along in 1990/1991 that when a roll over occurs the fuel supply will cut off. And is touted as why the mechanical LP went away This was achieved by lost oil pressure stopping power to the lift pump - but fails to function because the running engine will continue to draw fuel past the LP as it is purposely designed as “flow on fail” so 100% loss of oil pressure will not stop the flow of fuel anyways. You do the math on which side is more plausible.
There is far better LP and filtering options but cost WAY more. Do the tests then lets find out what ya need.
What type of lubricant / additive have you been adding to the fuel besides the one gelled fuel event?
Oh, and Doug is wrong. That Blazer is no good but I would be willing to help you out and give you $100 haul it away for you! Haha . We do love pics of nice rigs and yours surely seems to meet the requirements!
30 seconds on
30 seconds off
30 seconds on
30 seconds off
30 seconds on
30 MINUTES off
Your buddy is possibly right - but misdiagnosed ip (injector pump) is the most common error that had more mechanic shops in court for gm than any other gm item. You HAVE TO DO the clear line test first, along with the fuel pressure at the ip inlet. Get the fuel pressure gauge tapped in after all the rubber lines. Not one inch of old fuel line between the gauge T and the ip.
Pull a sample of fuel (one pint minimum) from the water in fuel drain into a glass container and let it sit undisturbed for 10-12 hours then inspect for contamination.
LP (Lift Pump) GM ditched the mechanical LP on these engines because of a few issues. The main one is when the bladder has a minor tear the engine can still run but the pump is leaking fuel into the crank case. Thousands of engines replaced under warranty. I don’t remember the year it went away but remember my 88 they were gone. I have been told they solved the issue, never was able to verify. It would be nice if so for the db2 ip as it is adequate fuel delivery.
If you remove the pump, also remove the push rod that will slide out automatically. A simple block off plate to seal the oil leak bolts on just like the ones for small block and big block chevy uses. If you choose to continue running the mechanical lift pump, frequently smell your dipstick for diesel. If you smell it don’t run it, replace LP and do oil change immediately.
The best of the $100ish inline pumps like the one Doug posted is the AC Delco EP158. Run it off 10 awg wire with a fuse and relay activated when the ignition is on. Later year trucks run them off an oil pressure sensor. This is often touted as part of the dot regulation that came along in 1990/1991 that when a roll over occurs the fuel supply will cut off. And is touted as why the mechanical LP went away This was achieved by lost oil pressure stopping power to the lift pump - but fails to function because the running engine will continue to draw fuel past the LP as it is purposely designed as “flow on fail” so 100% loss of oil pressure will not stop the flow of fuel anyways. You do the math on which side is more plausible.
There is far better LP and filtering options but cost WAY more. Do the tests then lets find out what ya need.
What type of lubricant / additive have you been adding to the fuel besides the one gelled fuel event?
Oh, and Doug is wrong. That Blazer is no good but I would be willing to help you out and give you $100 haul it away for you! Haha . We do love pics of nice rigs and yours surely seems to meet the requirements!
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
quite alot too read, main takeaway from this is to definitely switch over from the mechanical pump to an electronic one (which, knowing my mechanical skills, will be a fun endeavor.....)
Ill definitely do the clear line test before I do anything huge of the sort (though, I already have an IP coming in from a friend who owns the CUCV varient of the 6.2, practically gave it for free) Ill see how it goes next week and I'll post an update when I can
jrsavoie
Recruit
Nice ride.
Did it start life as a gasoline powered machine?
What year is it?
What fuel filter do you have?
Where does the turbo return oil go?
There's adapters / hose barbs that screw into the EP158 ift pumps. I believethey canbe found in the help section at the autoparts stores.
Last edited:
jrsavoie
Recruit
Lift pump adapter / hose barbs to EP158
Dorman 800-170 3/8" x 4" Steel Fuel Line Repair
Dorman 800-170 3/8" x 4" Steel Fuel Line Repair
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
It used to start as easy as one, if that's whats being asked here
1985 6.2, and a WiX one off of O'riellys
Attachments
jrsavoie
Recruit
I am curious as to whether it came from the factory a diesel or a gasser?
What year is it?
I was asking what style of fuel filter it has? - looks like you have an aftermarket fuel filter on the passenger side firewall.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
If it was a gasser, at least they changed the brake booster to the hydro boost.
Could have run a vacuum booster from a vacuum pump. Maybe ? If there was such a thing on this old of a truck.
jrsavoie
Recruit
I missed that. Not sure on the year. 1988 or 1989 should have had the factory electric lift pump, so it shouldn't be to hard to plumb.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
And I think those years probably run the old rectangular FFM on the radiator support.
Wonder if thats still there, like a backup filter.
jrsavoie
Recruit
My 1989 was the brick filter on the back side of the engine
A lot of people cussed the brick filters. I never had an issue with mine. Changed every oil change/ 20,000 miles.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
I see it looks like you have an aftermarket turbo. would you mind telling us about it?
Will L.
Well-Known Member
DEFINITELY do the clear line, the fuel Pressure tests and sample the fuel before installing the new to you db2. If you are contaminated with algae you can contaminate the new one.
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
The body itself is a 1990 one, has 6.2 badging and everything, it had a 700r4 before it went out and then I put a built af Stage III 4L60E (curtesy of Gearstar)
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
Previous owner added the turbo, its the ATS kit
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
Spin on fuel filter, currently using a WiX one, has a water separator on it aswell
jrsavoie
Recruit
I would go for the fuel pressure gauge at the injection Pump first.
Electric lift pump next. I would Install a lift pump relay.
If you ever go with a Powermaster starter, I would install a starter relay, if it doesn't have one.
It seems a 1990 should have come with an electric lift pump. My 1989 C2500 truck did.
But trucks, Blazers and Suburbans weren't always the same.
Electric lift pump next. I would Install a lift pump relay.
If you ever go with a Powermaster starter, I would install a starter relay, if it doesn't have one.
It seems a 1990 should have come with an electric lift pump. My 1989 C2500 truck did.
But trucks, Blazers and Suburbans weren't always the same.
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
Fellas, the CUCV 6.2 IP finally arrived, if anyone could point me to a tutorial on how to replace it, I'd be highly appreciated
(Video tutorial preffered)
Attachments
