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AC questions and opinions

dbrannon79

I'm getting there!
Messages
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Location
Seguin, TX
Hey guys, some recent reading and things I am seeing has gotten me to ask some questions on my AC system. as I had posted in another thread, installing a cooling upgrade on my 95 pickem up truck, I am now able to see just how much just how much my ac compressor is cycling while on the road (light in the dash tied into ac and fan controller) I think it's cycling way too much.

it's cooling decent so I'm not complaining in that department, but with my gauge manifold pressures looking like it's low on freon (134a) (pressures afound 27low 200high) and how much I have charged it with. I am afraid to add anymore and end up breaking something. while on the road it's constantly cycling and I'm afraid it's gonna eventually cause clutch failure. now with the fan clutch engaged I can also constantly feel the compressor cycling through the truck too.

I have been reading and thinking about evacuating it and installing a variable orifice tube. It's already been recommended for me to use the higher temp vov for my area in south Texas. since we are slowly getting into the cooler months of the year, I have some questions and need some opinions..

1. with the 105+ deg rated vov, how well will the AC work when outside temps are in the 80's to 90's?

2. I have heard other talk badly about them as they seem to be kinda like a gamble getting one that works and not DOA out of the box. what are things to look for to determine if the one I get is bad. I know if pressures spike and no cooling it's clogged, but how can I tell when it's working, should I see a consistent pressure regardless of engine RPM?

3. probably the most damming situation for me... when I last had toe front grille off the truck, I realized that someone before me had installed one of those orifice tube repair kits on the condenser. will these vov valves fit inside of one of these "holders" since I think they are slightly longer than a fixed orifice tube. (current one installed is black in color)

to touch on what I have done to the AC system... all components are new (installed a kit from AAP about a year ago) New compressor, accumulator, black orifice (came with kit) Flushed, pulled vacuum and charged. when I charged it I followed spec that I believe I found here in the forums somewhere, but since have added about 1/2 to 3/4 of a 12 oz can more of 134a.

the reason I replaced everything was (me being the dumb one) had a working ac but it wasn't cooling worth a darn. I had done propane conversions on some of my previous vehicles in the past with great success using enviro-safe freon, so I tried it on this truck. it worked dam good for about a day until the compressor grenaded. I couldn't find a cycle switch that would allow lower pressure to cycle due to the odd ball threads on the accumulator so me the dummy bypassed the cycle switch. wrong move on my part, but that's history, live and learn lol... when I installed everything new I went back to the factory 134a.
 
I will leave the vov to others that did the switch more than me.

When you do mess with the system, get that trinary switch in there to take care of the high head pressures. The system removes a lot of heat, and that heat goes into the refrigerant. This causes expansion and increased pressure. Now as the pressure gets to high because the condenser can not get rid of it all, the pressure switch shuts off the compressor.
This is where the Trinary switch in place of your current binary switch is- now does the same job, and also goes to your new fan control unit and kicks in your big boy fan. This removes more heat than before from the condenser, so the pressure can come back down keeping compressor running. This gets the truck cooler (both faster and over all lower temp).

This is not to say the new fan controller and e-v fan clutch are the fix for over cycling compressor. Ensure everything else is proper first.

Always fix all problems first then upgrade second, to get the most out of it all, and to keep from adding complications when something goes wrong.
 
@Will L. which trinary switch do you recommend? I know you've said something about it before. I had done a little research looking for one but still not sure. the system does have a high pressure switch hidden behind the grille on the condenser and the only other switch it has is the cycle switch.

back when I replaced everything I tried to put it back to factory as best as I could. hell when I first bought the truck the PO had a toggle switch wired to the cycle switch in the dash to run it. I ripped all that out then, afterwards I found that the control panel was bad. all that has been redone now. after I had redone the AC, installed everything new I knew something wasn't right due to the unusal low pressures. after I had managed to make it cool decent I left it alone. now that the big fan is flowing good air through the stack, it's acting like it needs more freon. at least that's what I'm thinking since the compressor is cycling fast on the road.
 
I think I found it... is this what you were talking about?


I would just need to see what threads the existing high pressure switch uses and then get a trinary switch in it's place. the reason I'm unsure on the port threads is because when I was trying to convert it to envirosafe and get rid of the crappy 134a, the cycle switch port on the accumulator has a odd thread. I had thought it was that acme 134a thread but its not. it's larger than the 1/4" flare that r12 ports use but smaller than the 134 acme thread. I was looking to an adjustable cycle switch to install there at the time.

I since abandoned that conversion after locking up the old compressor!
 
I'm still interested in the vov orifice, if it will help. I may even need to go a step further an replace the condenser since a PO modified it and installed that orifice "repair" kit on it.

1632367052246.png

one of these gizmos is attached to the condenser!
 
ya know, this might sound dumb, but now I'm sitting here thinking about it.... someone installed that repair kit on the condenser that holds the orifice tube... did they install it backwards? did I install the new orifice backwards? lol I can't remember. I just remember putting the new OT back in the same way the old one came out! I wonder if a backwards orifice tube would cause weird pressure readings and explain why something isn't right and acting the way it is. acting like it's low but actually overcharged!

I'm having an "Oh shit" flash back moment now lol
 
The repair kit is in there because the condenser threads are aluminum and ALWAYS seize to the steel fitting on the line. The switch on the condenser is there to put the AC on inside air mode when the high side pressure reaches 325, and it reopens around 225-250. This is the switch that GM used to activate the auxiliary electric fan on 454's. There is a high pressure cutout switch mounted in the compressor, and the low pressure cycling switch at the accumulator. All the threaded fittings in the r134 AC system are metric, so good luck finding a trinary switch for it. There is a high pressure switch that GM uses for activating electric fans, but it goes into the circle port in the compressor where your current high pressure cutout switch is at.
 
Here's an adjustable low pressure cycling switch with the correct m12 threads.

 
so I wonder if I should just re-wire the high pressure switch on the condenser to trigger the ev fan clutch and install a compressor mounted high cutout switch? I found out that the PO must have replaced the compressor before me and the switch wasn't there when I replaced it. So I never installed one ether. I think Will or WW had told me to get one installed, I just haven't done it yet.

as for the repair kit the PO installed. should I look at a replacement condenser or just verify they installed it in the right orientation?

I haven't messed with the AC yet. it's been cooler weather and not to mention the awakening of covid household this weekend. Ill be on quarantine for the next 10 days at least, so as long as this crud doesn't knock me off my feet Ill have some one on one time with my truck lol
 
I don't like those repair kits and the stock 95 condenser was a serpentine capillary ribbon design that was crap for r134 to begin with. I would install a high pressure cutout switch at the condenser and install the purple compressor mounted switch to trigger your evc. 325 psi on and 225 off is a bit on the high side to run your high side pressures. The purple switch closes at 283 and opens at 210. There is also one that closes at 240 but it doesn't open until 150.
 
I will have to look for that cutout switch to go on the condenser. which year model condenser would you recommend? 99-2000? not sure when they went from the OT to using expansion valves in the dash
 
I will have to look for that cutout switch to go on the condenser. which year model condenser would you recommend? 99-2000? not sure when they went from the OT to using expansion valves in the dash
None of them use expansion valves, even new trucks use orifice tubes. Look for a parallel flow condenser for a 95(only 95 has the switch port on the condenser). Last I looked they were on backorder though.

EDIT: just checked RA and they have them back in stock. I have one of these in my 99 Tahoe and it WORKS! My Tahoe freezes you out.
 
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Thanks guys, That just may be the ultimate route. new parallel flow coated condenser along with the right sensors and switches. winter is almost upon us, so that might give me some time to start saving some pennies to get it all done before next summer hits!
 
Thanks guys, That just may be the ultimate route. new parallel flow coated condenser along with the right sensors and switches. winter is almost upon us, so that might give me some time to start saving some pennies to get it all done before next summer hits!
Yeah, but with winter coming on you won't need the A/C so it'll get pushed down the list. Then come June you'll be 'Holy crap, I gotta get my A/C fixed and running!' 🤣
 
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