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6.5 TD Lift Pump

FWIW #1 thing to do to your fuel system is install a LP relay harness, weather you make your own or buy one. (I do have them on my site)
Get the 93 pump of your choice until you can get a better one. The relay harness might get you an extra pound or 2 PSI too! LP harness is mandatory with anything "bigger" than stock and really even with the stock LP.
#1 gauge on these old truck is a fuel PSI gauge (assuming oil psi is good).
 
Just get a piece of longer tubing for your fuel pressure gauge and tie it to the wiper so you can take if for a test drive under load. If taking a trip a spare pumps not a bad idea
 
Burning oil said:
FWIW #1 thing to do to your fuel system is install a LP relay harness, weather you make your own or buy one. (I do have them on my site)
Get the 93 pump of your choice until you can get a better one. The relay harness might get you an extra pound or 2 PSI too! LP harness is mandatory with anything "bigger" than stock and really even with the stock LP.
#1 gauge on these old truck is a fuel PSI gauge (assuming oil psi is good).
Click to expand...
Have you ever looked into carrying the DRP-02 Fass pump? Add two o ring base adapter fittings and your relay kit for a plug and go setup. Might have a better profit margin than on the Raptor.

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quadstar87 said:
Have you ever looked into carrying the DRP-02 Fass pump? Add two o ring base adapter fittings and your relay kit for a plug and go setup. Might have a better profit margin than on the Raptor.

Sent from Tapatalk
Click to expand...
I will look into it. I like the idea of options for customers. Thanks.
 
Burning oil said:
Is the FASS flow on fail?
Click to expand...
I haven't tried but they have a tech line and a dealer system you can ask thru. I have a full list of parts and fittings for a complete system you should be able to find via the Google with my user name.

Sent from Tapatalk
 
Burning oil said:
Is the FASS flow on fail?
Click to expand...
I thought I'd do some self education and spent some time looking over the FASS web site and googling 'DRP-2, Flow on Fail.' I've attempted to put my research down in this long and, seemingly, unhelpful post. For those without the desire to endure my banter...
BLUF: Nope, no answer I mean. Going to have to call them cause there isn't much other than an install manual with basic flow info on their web page for the DDRP-2. Either that or try the Dodge forums with the question.

quadstar87 said:
I haven't tried but they have a tech line and a dealer system you can ask thru. I have a full list of parts and fittings for a complete system you should be able to find via the Google with my user name.
Click to expand...
When I googled "Fass DRP-2, flow on fail," your excellent write-up did pop up (I read it when it first came up, nice job. You ought to copy it over here too). Anyway, the primer verbiage said, "A simple flow-on-fail backup in case of pump failure; Replacement parts readily ...FASS DRP-02 High Performance Diesel Fuel Pump." ... time to pull the fuse and see if you got what you hoped for. ;-) poke poke. I know the AD I'm running is flow on fail but that's another thread.

Other results that came up on the search were threads that talked of Carter "Fail" and addressed "flow" but nothing located as to 'flow on fail.'

Owner's manuals linked on their site (http://www.fassride.com/fasstech.php) list the Titanium (LT Truck), Platinum and HD (Lt Truck, HD Equipment & Semi) but nothing save an install manual for the DRP-2. Unknown by me if the DRPs are part of those three families but it doesn't have the water, air filtration systems either...Odd that they don't list an owners manual or that the install manual for the DRP doesn't have the info either.

The HD and Platinum manuals states that, "In class 8 set ups, the FASS series is equipped with a by-pass port that allows the engine to continue running in the event that a problem occurs and the situation calls for the unit to be by-passed. At which point only water and dirt are being separated." Since we aren't running Class 8 Semi's here, that's not much help.

FWIW, The Fass 150 is flow on fail as demonstrated

But, it is twice the price of the DRP-2....
 
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I'd be glad to write my install thread here but sounds like we need the flow on fail info first. It does a good job of not failing which was my main concern.



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Thought all you that are bitching about replacing LP's should read this written by a GM specialist:
Anytime you replace the lift pump, proper maint and/or repair procedure MANDATES that you drop, clean and inspect the fuel tank and sender, as well as replace the fuel strainer and OPS. Its a good idea to check all the grounds also to ensure proper voltage is reaching the lift pump.
But because the diesel's lift pump is located most conveniently outside the fuel tank, most all pro's and DIYrs conveniently skip the hard part (dropping the tank) until a few more lift pumps and/or OPS quickly die only to then biotch 'bout s'itty parts and what not when in fact its just half assed mechanics who are most often to blame for not following the proper procedures. Much like jumping around troubleshooting, or as is so often the case, they skip straight to the end of the lengthy and labor intensive diagnostic process in there rush to a sure misdiagnosis...
 
sctrailrider said:
Best thing would be 20$ & some time and install a psi gauge between the filter & IP and their won't be any doubt if you have pressure....
Click to expand...
I am just getting ready to post about permanently mounted fuel pressure gauges on my vehicles. I've been talking about this since 1989 and haven't done it yet.

I guess it is finally time. Luckily there are more options now than there was then.

Can anybody recommend a good fuel pressure gauge to permanently mount on each vehicle in my small fleet?

I plan on doing Feed the Beast and fuel pressure gauge on each vehicle.

This is one I am considering. WhaT has everybody else used?

https://bigbay4bestbuys.com/fuel_multi_gauge
 
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QinVB said:
Thought all you that are bitching about replacing LP's should read this written by a GM specialist:
Anytime you replace the lift pump, proper maint and/or repair procedure MANDATES that you drop, clean and inspect the fuel tank and sender, as well as replace the fuel strainer and OPS. Its a good idea to check all the grounds also to ensure proper voltage is reaching the lift pump.
But because the diesel's lift pump is located most conveniently outside the fuel tank, most all pro's and DIYrs conveniently skip the hard part (dropping the tank) until a few more lift pumps and/or OPS quickly die only to then biotch 'bout s'itty parts and what not when in fact its just half assed mechanics who are most often to blame for not following the proper procedures. Much like jumping around troubleshooting, or as is so often the case, they skip straight to the end of the lengthy and labor intensive diagnostic process in there rush to a sure misdiagnosis...
Click to expand...
I would not consider him an expert. He's posted some pretty misleading stuff.

I've gone through very few lift pumps since 1989 and I've never followed his protocol. But then I like to use fuel primarily out of my storage tank which is filtered to 2 micron before it hits the tanks on my vehicles.
 
It is a good idea to drop the tank every once and awhile to check what's going on up on top and inside of the unit. clean grounds and seal them, also good idea to clean the tank inside and out then add galvanized coating to it even if it shows no corrosion outside.

This with the skill set can make an access hatch over the tanks sending/line/pump unit to make PM easier.
 
QinVB- not arguing with you- I think you found info from someone not in the right loop. Link?

My short response is that info is wrong, disregard him/her.

*WARNING*My book response:
I have paper manuals from gm when I was certified as GM master tech for fleet services and 1 from am general for my personal use. When I worked at the dealership everything was via computer. I never once saw instructions of doing a drain and drop or the tank testing procedures when a bad LP was replaced on a 6.2/6.5 equipped vehicle . Not trucks, vans, hmmwv, Hummer, H1, Oshkosh delap, g-van, - anything if it is an external pump of anykind.

In fact, actual cleaning the tank pays extra. So does full tank inspection, because part of the tank inspection that GM does mandate is the vacuum/ pressure protocol because of liabilty from the Ivey memo. Iirc full tank inspection pays 10 hours itself. AM General does not authorize it- it mandates a new tank being installed when suspect just like they mandate throwing away every washer on every fastner every time.

An ops? Changing the ops never was and still is not part of the charges or instructions on diesel LP diagnostic or repair. I personally had to fight it out with Chevrolet on 6 different bad LP/ ops charges for my labor when I did replace both at the same time. 4 as fleet manager, and 2 as dealership tech. I am now offroading buddies with the regional component review manager over the events. I used my past contacts to push a presentation through for GM review board about the ops-LP relation issue when it occured years ago. So unless GM changed their stance on 6.5 repair procedure since last year (a minute or two after no longer even suppoting some 6.5 parts) when We were having our same old conversation on it after I pulled his dmax 2500 out of the sand dunes...

And oh yeah, hows about some 6.5 equiped vehicles such as 1 I own currently comes with a single wire ops and its signal sends to both gauge and a factory relay which feeds LP. The single wire ops NEVER burns out due to load of LP. The GM specialist must have replaced some forum knowledge with GM info along the way and is spewing his opinion as GM protocol. Can the GM specialist id which years and why the GM sold Hummers had the different ops? His clue is I did not say H1. I knew the differnce way before owning a Hummer, because I was a GM Specialist at the time the change over occured.

"...check all the grounds...ensure voltage reaches..." B.S. As in BULL EXCREMENT! no maintenence or repair manual ever says it like that. Maybe its because I am also a state cetified electrician, but you can remove all grounds and the voltage will still get to the LP. Proper grounds to complete the circuit is needed, but the grounding is different by harness in different application. Hows about circuit X, location X, test X, pin X, that is the reference info given the tech.

Anybody have book current hours? LP has to be 1.25, ops 2, full tank inspection 10, tank level r&r for inspection .25.
Idk dealership rates where that GM specialist is, but here its $125 an hour. So Well over a grand in labor alone for a bad LP. Then a couple hundred for parts of LP, ops- Yeah...that will happen.

When working in the fleets we did the work ourselves since we were GM certified and shipped them the bad parts in the new parts packaging. Then the company got reiembursed for part and labor cost. GM liked it becasue there was no dealership labor mark up. They paid $10 over adjusted labor cost per hour. I handled the paperwork. I would love to see where GM ever said doing the tank and ops was s.o.p.

To the GM specialist saying most all the pros and diy... BELIEVE THIS: pro shops would LOVE that amount of hours in the book to be legal charging customers that many hours labor. So it would be just the diy guys?
Its the DIY guys that came up with fixes like check the ground for things like pmd issues, use of relay in gmt400 fuelpump harness, etc.

I take offense to a GM specialist to comment like that people that learned these things are under performing.

Does the GM specialist recommend not using the AC Delco pump? Maybe his training at GM taught him to use airtex or carter instead. I have no loyalty to AC Delco, but when they have the better product like the EP158- I suggest it. On a hummer forum I bash the factory starter and favor the powermaster 9052. It is simply better. The factory starter is heavy, slow, overpriced junk. I call it like it is.
 
We used to recommend the Delphi FP905 which I suspect it becomes HFP905 on that list.
This is beside the original ACDelco.
 
Every since the delphi pumps moved there plant, the qc went way down and failures became bad enough I wont recommend them anymore. I used to, but that was many years ago. However, even when they were reliable the AC Delco still had more volume.
 
@QinVB

FWIW I run EP158 AC Delco pumps on all of my 6.5Ls, and on the 95 and older, run the Leroy Diesel lift pump relay harness along with it.

I have yet to lose one LP, and I have never dropped a tank. I will monitor pressure at each oil change with a guage and if I dont get proper pressure I will investigate why, dropping of the tank is not exempt from the list. If I did that though, I would delete the sock and go with a external pre-filter.

IMO a in tank solution is a rather poor solution when it comes to filtering, so I dont think very highly of GM's tank sock.
 
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I feel the same way GM Guy. I have to replace my float assy in my tank anyway - gauge always reads full. So I am going to remove the sock and put an external filter on the truck. i'm only replacing what I'm replacing to make the truck, or attempt to make it, break-down-in-the-middle-of-nowhere proof.
 
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