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6.5 starts few minutes then dies

T

treeman

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houston,texas
this truck starts runs few minutes then dies as if key turned off starts then dies then wont start wait a while then the same symposiums again changed fuel pump on frame,changed PMD and remounted a couple of years ago,changed fuel solenoid,new fuel filter any suggestions?
 
What year?

On the front of the IP is a short 1/4" fuel return hose, replace it with a clear hose. If there is air in the return you will see it. There should only be a small air bubble at the top of the hose. You could also have a pinhole pre LP or Pre IP. Any fuel leaks?
 
Thank you for the welcome. No fuel leaks. when this first started it would start then die then restart and run now it has progressed to start run few minutes then die if i let it sit for a while then it starts then dies wont stay running seen a post VaFarmBoy posted seems to be the same how long does a PMD last or could it be the ip solenoid
 
I don't recall VaFarmBoy's post. It could be a PMD, it could also be a bad fuse connection on the fuel shut off sol.
Some PMD's last months, some last years. Where is yours mounted?

What year? 94-95 codes can be read without a scanner.
 
Sounds like air in the fuel line or PMD. A clear fuel line on the return line is next to free. Try that. A known
good PMD is the way to check that. A spare is good to have in any event.
 
will try that tomorrow VaFarmBoy post was on a different site (AR15.com) I found when i was googling this problem he recommended this site in his post thank you for your time will get back with suggestions once i apply them
 
Do what Nvw said with the clear line. If bubbles, find where it's sucking air. Otherwise no bubbles then with someone else at the key, start truck and crack an injector nut. When the engine dies like it's doing, crank the engine over and see if it is still spitting fuel like it was when running.

Sounds to me like your running out of fuel. When is the last time you did a fuel filter? Have you tested your lift pump for pressure and volume?
 
treeman said:
this truck starts runs few minutes then dies as if key turned off starts then dies then wont start wait a while then the same symposiums again changed fuel pump on frame,changed PMD and remounted a couple of years ago,changed fuel solenoid,new fuel filter any suggestions?
Click to expand...

Later you mention it was mounted in bumper and that is one of the best places to mount it. But PMD/FSD's can still fail ( appreciable time later it is definitely a returned possibility) . Like mentioned best way to test it is to immediately plug in a new one (known good one) and see if it starts up right away and returns to normal. Unfortunately, if its a sporadic electrical gremlin causing the blip to the FSD it could still be hidden or masked by disconnecting and reconnecting the PMD/FSD plug. Might try unhooking your FSD and reconnecting it. An air leak is more likely to sputter and stall again on restart or have some hiccups etc (but not always). A switch from bad to good PMD/FSD can usually be an immediate correction.

It doesn't take much of a fuel leak especially right at IP or fuel filter manager to cause a hiccup. Use a strong flashlight to look around hoses and look best you can in valley of engine. You'll have to climb up on top and look all around from every possible angle between the intake runners with a strong flashlight to see a wet spot. Might clean around hose connections with brake cleaner now to see if they are wet later.
 
schiker said:
Later you mention it was mounted in bumper and that is one of the best places to mount it. But PMD/FSD's can still fail ( appreciable time later it is definitely a returned possibility) . Like mentioned best way to test it is to immediately plug in a new one (known good one) and see if it starts up right away and returns to normal. Unfortunately, if its a sporadic electrical gremlin causing the blip to the FSD it could still be hidden or masked by disconnecting and reconnecting the PMD/FSD plug. Might try unhooking your FSD and reconnecting it. An air leak is more likely to sputter and stall again on restart or have some hiccups etc (but not always). A switch from bad to good PMD/FSD can usually be an immediate correction.

It doesn't take much of a fuel leak especially right at IP or fuel filter manager to cause a hiccup. Use a strong flashlight to look around hoses and look best you can in valley of engine. You'll have to climb up on top and look all around from every possible angle between the intake runners with a strong flashlight to see a wet spot. Might clean around hose connections with brake cleaner now to see if they are wet later.
Click to expand...
Did you fit the resister in new PMD ? I changed mine .. After approx 50 starts it started what you explain . I fitted the resister after breaking the bolts from old PMD . To recover resister ., runing like new now ..
 
Did it start doing this shortly after you changed the fuel filter, or did you change the fuel filter trying to fix the problem? Also, a clogged filter sock on the end of the pick up tube in the tank can cause the symptoms you describe.
 
China PMD extension cable or a good made in USA one? Wiggle test the PMD extension harness as they do go bad.
 
The location of PMD outside the hood can only prolong the life but despite that, it will still fail.
PMD is electronic and it depends on the quality of the electronic and how it is used like anything else.

Unfortunately, the only way to know if a PMD is bad, you need to put a KNOWN WORKING PMD.

Also, you said, you changed some parts.
NEVER ASSUME THAT NEW PARTS ARE GOOD/OPERATIONAL.
As a matter of fact, you have to assume those new part as bad until you test it working.
I know a little bit different thought process.
Mfg now requires its users to be their tester.
That is why they offer lifetime warranty but makes it difficult for the user to exchange it if it is actually DOA.
 
Aus-kiwi posted an interesting question checked for resistor no resistor put in new resistor 4/19/20 seems to be running fine bought PMD and wiring harness from Leroydiesel.com few years back.Don't use this truck much 163,000 miles any still rattling.Resistor seems to be working. Had loud ticking so changed rod bearings,crank bearings,oil pump and timing chain about 2 months ago minimal wear. When it started this Starting and dying thought it might be something I did when i changed those parts shade tree mechanic-do-it-yourselfer appreciate all the help from post and website ever so helpful ya'll are doing a awesome deed helping nubee's. If any problems continue will reply THANKS!!!
 
What were the results with the clear lines and the other fuel system checks above before you get into any of this stuff.

Is it one cylinder?
Possible Injector?

With engine idling crack one injector at a time and identify which is the culprit. After you ID which one, kill truck and swap that injector with another one and see if the knock follows the injector, or stays at the cylinder. If it moved with the injector- that's the not happy one. If that injector is coked up, try soaking it in carb cleaner and use a soft tooth brush to clean away deposits. DO NOT scrape at the tip of the nozzle, the pintle is a needle tip on the end that is easily ruined.

If the noise does not follow the injector it is something in that cylinder. Do compression test and cylinder leakdown test. Pull valve cover look for rocker button, free play in arm being worn,bent push rod,collapsed lifter.
 
Exhaust leak? Manifolds warp badly over time. Gaskets are not required as soot from this dirty engine will seal the manifolds up. Get new manifolds if yours are warped. Maybe some good used ones as new is $$$.
 
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