How does this blow by look the cdr isn't chunky anymore since I changed the hose from metal to rubber and since the oil level is at normal I was just wondering how this blow by looks just decided to get some opinions on it.
Also I have a question about the boost I was on the highway doing about 60 when I laid into it boost only hit about 5psi but when I'm going slow like 20 driving around town and just driving up a hill in 30mph zone I get up to 10psi. What should the boost be at 65mph when laying into it should I adjust the waste gate more?
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Hows this blow by look? Also boost question
- Thread starter bdemutis
- Start date
great white
Well-Known Member
Hard to tell anything worthwhile from "blowby".
Just looking at your vid the amount looks significant, but that's not always terminal. At least, not right away. And again, as I mentioned, pretty hard to tell anything by "blowby".
If you want a more accurate of engine condition, get a compression test done.
Just looking at your vid the amount looks significant, but that's not always terminal. At least, not right away. And again, as I mentioned, pretty hard to tell anything by "blowby".
If you want a more accurate of engine condition, get a compression test done.
Significant as in I should sell it lol or will it last me another 100k as a daily driver?
great white
Well-Known Member
No idea. There's more to gauging engine condition than a puff of oil smoke from the filler tube.....
True I mean the truck is 20 years old a bit of blow by is normal I guess I should stop worrying and just drive it.
To me it didn't seem to excessive for a 20 year old truck I just wanted some opinions.
Last edited:
great white
Well-Known Member
It could last 5 days, 5 months or 5 years.
You need to do things like compression checks, oil pressure etc to get an idea of which on of those numbers is a reasonable expectation.....
Will L.
Well-Known Member
compression test. if the blowby is from even ring wear, then you could run it a while, as long as you don't go cranking up the boost or trying to roll coal. If the blowby is from one cylinder then it is way closer to rering time. These engines are economy engines. They were built at a lower cost, and intend to run at low fuel consumption, and not trying to race or tow half the world. What is your warm oil pressure? are there any noises that we couldn't hear on the video?
There were a lot of problems that took a long time to figure out, like harmonic balancers going and snapping cranks and cracking mains faster. pmd and bad grounds causing a ton of ip replacements that were not needed. Not replacing injectors for 150,000 miles, then wondering why there is piston damage. The poor designed water pump, that once corrected with the balance flow, correct fanclutch and bigger fan solves many woes. Adding a relay to ops, then it lasts forever. Most people out there that know a bit about these engines have them filed in the junk category, and as long as they don't all get turned to scrap metal that's good. The more people that learn the low cost of long term ownership, the harder they are to find for a good used core.
There were a lot of problems that took a long time to figure out, like harmonic balancers going and snapping cranks and cracking mains faster. pmd and bad grounds causing a ton of ip replacements that were not needed. Not replacing injectors for 150,000 miles, then wondering why there is piston damage. The poor designed water pump, that once corrected with the balance flow, correct fanclutch and bigger fan solves many woes. Adding a relay to ops, then it lasts forever. Most people out there that know a bit about these engines have them filed in the junk category, and as long as they don't all get turned to scrap metal that's good. The more people that learn the low cost of long term ownership, the harder they are to find for a good used core.
I'll save myself the heart break and just change the oil every 3k and drive it and just maintain it.
No everything you hear in the video is what I hear everyday of driving it. Boost only peaks around 10ish most of the times I'm running around 6 to 5. Warm oil pressure is around 40 to 50 range that's while driving and the engine at 195* or so. I plan on doing all injectors soon as it gets a little warmer out along with all glow plugs.
Also all of the kids wanting to roll coal because they think it's cool is just giving the diesel community a bad rap and social view.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Good, keep the boost down. The more boost is going to increase the blow by. Think moving 50 gallons through a 1" pipe vs through a 3" pipe. It all get there, but now has less pressure. The lower pressure in the chamber, the less blow by you get. If it is just even ring wear, you would benefit from a larger turbo that moves more air under less pressure. If you have a broken ring or a hole in a piston, the last thing you want is more turbo that will create more power. You can ignore it and just see what happens, providing you drive it like grandma would. Run it harder and it could bring the grimm reaper around the corner. Also, right now, it might need $400 to rebuild, if whatever is going actually goes, it could take out enough to make it not worth a rebuild. my2 cents.
Ok thanks I'll just drive it and see where it goes. Maybe some oil additives or marvel mystery oil in the next oil change.
Seriously RTFM! Oil changes for harsh conditions are 2500 miles!
These are a dirty engine with low oil capacity and will bring even modern oil to it's limits. 500 miles is a lot to run over a change especially with the EGR system.A UOA will give you some idea of the condition. With the oil pressure it sounds like you don't have any worries.
The blowby is normal in that it is steady not puffing. Typical for an engine with high miles, poor upkeep read long oil changes... Or the engine could have gotten hot just once. Anything over 210 is asking for it including killing the ring temper. Overheating IDI diesels results in near instant blowby.
These engine run great with copper showing in the bearings, blowby that is mistaken for a vehicle fire, and suddenly die with head gasket failure, snapped cranks or cracked blocks. High mile injectors will destroy the engine, turbo, and other items quick.
The injectors should be your #1 concern. The EGR going away and intake clean out should be next.
Blowby isn't bad till is pushes the dipstick out and even then not a worry.
Gapless rings during an overhaul will eliminate blowby...
Sounds good so 2500 oil change intervals not 3k I read allot of different things but yes my main concerns are the injectors hopefully be done as soon as it gets warm.Seriously RTFM! Oil changes for harsh conditions are 2500 miles!
A UOA will give you some idea of the condition. With the oil pressure it sounds like you don't have any worries.
The blowby is normal in that it is steady not puffing. Typical for an engine with high miles, poor upkeep read long oil changes... Or the engine could have gotten hot just once. Anything over 210 is asking for it including killing the ring temper. Overheating IDI diesels results in near instant blowby.
These engine run great with copper showing in the bearings, blowby that is mistaken for a vehicle fire, and suddenly die with head gasket failure, snapped cranks or cracked blocks. High mile injectors will destroy the engine, turbo, and other items quick.
The injectors should be your #1 concern. The EGR going away and intake clean out should be next.
Blowby isn't bad till is pushes the dipstick out and even then not a worry.
Gapless rings during an overhaul will eliminate blowby...
Will L.
Well-Known Member
BIG NO!!! on the mystery marvel oil. The only mystery is that no one checks the lubricity rating- Used engine oil with a pinch of beach sand is a little better.
Ok lol what oil additives are good to add with each oil change and what intervals are good for some one just daily driving?
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
temps are cooler here so oil doesn't turn to sludge quite as easily where it gets hot but I change mine every 5k
NVW
Well-Known Member
Just use a quality diesel engine oil.
JayTheCPA
Well-Known Member
As WW mentioned, get an oil analysis (UOA) just prior to each oil change. This will tell you what is getting into the oil and whether the motor is developing issues.
In terms of what oil, do the homework as most diesel rated oils will work. The local big-box tends to sell out of diesel Valvoline quickest even though it is not the cheapest.
In terms of what oil, do the homework as most diesel rated oils will work. The local big-box tends to sell out of diesel Valvoline quickest even though it is not the cheapest.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Yup, just like they are all saying. The advantage of sampling and sending into a lab is you will know when the bearings or anything else is at end of life before the Big Bang. Also, you can save money because the time between oil changes might be able to be stretched out based on oil condition. Do 3 or 4 at 2,500 miles to set the base line then go from there.
Instead of additives, if you are willing to spend more on oil for synthetic, you will have better results.
Instead of additives, if you are willing to spend more on oil for synthetic, you will have better results.