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what's the best way to fix this fuel tank(pics) not a 6.5 but close
- Thread starter Drago
- Start date
Fill it half full of gas then weld it up with an arc welder 
oke: Just kidding!!
Sound like your on the right track with the epoxy idea. I know there is a structual adhesive but not sure if it holds up to fuels?
oke: Just kidding!!Sound like your on the right track with the epoxy idea. I know there is a structual adhesive but not sure if it holds up to fuels?
NVW
Well-Known Member
Use silicon and sheet metal, that looks to be the top of the tank. If it is screws will not be necessary. I would use Red silicon.
3500GMC
What T F, over
Hot iron and solder a disc of sheet metal with acid core tin/lead solder.
If its gasoline silicone is not gonna do it IMO.
If its gasoline silicone is not gonna do it IMO.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Silicone will not stand up. There is a 2 part epoxy for fuel tanks in the parts houses like pep boys, etc. A must for the trail rig kit, stays good for a few years in high heat or freezing cold in the package. Fixed a buddies yota with some about 4 years ago and still holding.
Funny thing 'bout welding on fuel tanks, guess what I did today at work. On 12,000 gallon bullet proof set up X 3. Have to finish Monday.
If you opt to weld it, ye ol trick is: give Leroy back his half tank of fuel so its empty. Then wash with dawn dish soap and water, about 2 gallons of water in that size tank and about 1 cup of soap. Shake until your arms go rubber, then pour it out. Next get everything in place to weld and off you go to the grocery store for dry ice. Drop in the tank and wait. The dry ice will go from solid to gas state and expel the oxygen out. No oxygen= no boomy. While the dry ice is working after you have seen the "fog" coming out for a minute or so, then you can fire up Leroy's arc welder (or your mig/ tig/ brazing torch). Keep the tank open, no lid or fuel cap- it has to breathe out the nitrogen and push out the oxygen. 3-4 lbs will way over do your lil tank for some time to let you weld it up.
Plastic tanks can be welded in same manner, with a good plastic welder.
It's always fun watching someone the first time the get to be the helper when ya strike that first arc while they stand next to you doing it. Of coarse it helps to have someone else smack the tank on the side w/ a small sledge as you start for full effect...poor rookies.
Funny thing 'bout welding on fuel tanks, guess what I did today at work. On 12,000 gallon bullet proof set up X 3. Have to finish Monday.
If you opt to weld it, ye ol trick is: give Leroy back his half tank of fuel so its empty. Then wash with dawn dish soap and water, about 2 gallons of water in that size tank and about 1 cup of soap. Shake until your arms go rubber, then pour it out. Next get everything in place to weld and off you go to the grocery store for dry ice. Drop in the tank and wait. The dry ice will go from solid to gas state and expel the oxygen out. No oxygen= no boomy. While the dry ice is working after you have seen the "fog" coming out for a minute or so, then you can fire up Leroy's arc welder (or your mig/ tig/ brazing torch). Keep the tank open, no lid or fuel cap- it has to breathe out the nitrogen and push out the oxygen. 3-4 lbs will way over do your lil tank for some time to let you weld it up.
Plastic tanks can be welded in same manner, with a good plastic welder.
It's always fun watching someone the first time the get to be the helper when ya strike that first arc while they stand next to you doing it. Of coarse it helps to have someone else smack the tank on the side w/ a small sledge as you start for full effect...poor rookies.
bison
Well-Known Member
Get new tank,.they ain't that expensive.
Missy Good Wench
Wild Blonde from Cloud Mt
Wash the tank out with loads of water and add some dawn dish soap.
After you wash it good open all the ports and insert an air hose in it and blow out any remaining fumes.
Refill with water up close but not touching the area to be fixed.
Scare up a piece of 1/16" copper or brass sheet and cut a suitable patch.
Clean the tank surface well to remove any and all grease/dirt or corrosion from an area 3 times the size of the hole.
Use some 400 grit emery paper and lightly scuff the galvanized finish of the tank.
Now do as a previous post suggested, using a large soldering iron, solder the copper/brass patch over the hole using the tin lead acid core.
If you wipe the area off with a clean paper towel soaked in Brake kleen just prior to soldering, you will be assured of zero oil on the tank/patch
Be sure to prep your patch so the metal is clean, bright and lightly scuffed.
This will effect a good quality permanent patch on the tank that will last.
I had a buddy once that poked a hole in his fuel tank with a 1/4" drill while doing something under his truck.
We did this type of fix using a PENNY, YUP, soldered o'l Abe on the tank.
Good luck
After you wash it good open all the ports and insert an air hose in it and blow out any remaining fumes.
Refill with water up close but not touching the area to be fixed.
Scare up a piece of 1/16" copper or brass sheet and cut a suitable patch.
Clean the tank surface well to remove any and all grease/dirt or corrosion from an area 3 times the size of the hole.
Use some 400 grit emery paper and lightly scuff the galvanized finish of the tank.
Now do as a previous post suggested, using a large soldering iron, solder the copper/brass patch over the hole using the tin lead acid core.
If you wipe the area off with a clean paper towel soaked in Brake kleen just prior to soldering, you will be assured of zero oil on the tank/patch
Be sure to prep your patch so the metal is clean, bright and lightly scuffed.
This will effect a good quality permanent patch on the tank that will last.
I had a buddy once that poked a hole in his fuel tank with a 1/4" drill while doing something under his truck.
We did this type of fix using a PENNY, YUP, soldered o'l Abe on the tank.
Good luck
I just got done patching it with a quarter (25cent piece) and some flattened out schedule M copper pipe with some 50/50 solder, I'll be pressure checking it in about an hour. even if it works I still want to drive to Holly Mount and get a new(used) tank. How reactive is BioD blend to Lead, Tin and Brass? I gave it some thought and any epoxy type patch is a temp imho. In an MB the fuel tank is located INSIDE the trunk so it is guaranteed to ruin your luggage
Missy Good Wench
Wild Blonde from Cloud Mt
You do a good solder job, it will last until you don't need the rig any more.
The lead, brass, copper will do fine with the bio.
The lead, brass, copper will do fine with the bio.
the repair worked great, then the damn thing sprung another leak in another area altogether:WTF::mad2::mad5: