Bad Injector?

[Chevypoor]

Does it still rattle at 10 psi boost ?

It rattles all the time at between 1500-2200 at 35% or more throttle. At light throttle and of course low boost no rattle. No rattle below 1500 and no rattle at speed on flat ground. Have been in the throttle long enough or hard enough to see more than 10psi or so.

 

[Chevypoor]

- What steps do I need to take to set TDCO?


■Start GMTDScan Tech.
■Connect to your truck.
■Go into the dashboard view and verify that the engine coolant temp is at, or above, 180 °F. If not, wait before proceeding.
■Go into the DTC view and verify that no trouble codes are present.
■Go into the TDC view.
■Take note of the current DES/ACT/TDCO values. OEM is +3.5°/+3.5°/-0.5°.
■Click the TDC Time Set ON button. DES should now read 0° and ACT should read +3.5° on average.
■Click the TDC Time Set OFF button to go back to normal operating mode.
■Click the TDC Learn ON button. The TDCO value will now fluctuate for about 20-30 seconds before setting itself. You can end the sequense prematurely by clicking the TDC Learn OFF button. The current TDCO value will then be set in the PCM.
■If you are not happy with the TDCO you get you must turn the injection pump. Towards the drivers side is "+" and towards the passenger side is "-". A 2mm move equals 5° so take it very easy and do not attempt to turn the injection pump while the engine is running!
■Repeat the TDC Learn procedure until the TDCO you want is attained.
Note:
You need to know what you are doing when attempting this procedure. If your mechanical skills are limited, leave it up to a skilled friend or professional to do it for you. You are on your own if something breaks. Engh Motors cannot be held responsible for damages, injuries or costs of any kind.
- I keep getting "INVALID LICENSE FILE!". What is wrong?

You have not entered your licensing information correctly. All info needs to be entered exactly as it appears in the delivery e-mail, not just the license key. Get a single character wrong and validation will fail. It is even case sensitive. Copy and paste all information to avoid typing mistakes.

- What about GMTDScan Tech updates, do they cost extra?



- I get the following error message when I try to register the software: "Access to the path 'C:\Program Files (x86)\GMTDScan Tech\GMTDST.lic' is denied".

That is a Windows user access rights problem. The easiest way around it is to right-click the GMTDScan Tech icon that the installation created on the desktop and selecting "Run as Administrator" from the menu pops-up. You will have no problems creating your license file then.

Thanks. I will try again. I copied and pasted twice and carefully typed twice. Re loaded the software twice. Will keep trying.....

 

[JMJNet]

Software will also need to download driver, so make sure computer is connected to internet.

 

[Chevypoor]

We have satellite internet.. always "on" so to speak. Made some progress... pretty sure it a windows issue.
Spoke to Bill today he was stumped. His thoughts were maybe injection pump. Gonna replace the coolant temp sensor on the off chance it may

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[Chevypoor]

Be bad. Kinda at a loss. He feels the same way I do. That it is not a timing issue.

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[turbovanman]

Thanks guys.

I guess it is time to look into a scan tool since I have three of these beasties. Are you talking about Leroy/ Leroy Diesel having one? If I am going to buy one I would like to buy from someone here if possible. Once I get a scan tool I will post up since I have never really used one.

Sorry if I seemed a little short. It is frustrating dealing with the attitudes alot of places/ people have in regards to the 6.2/6.5. A couple of shops actually told me why are you messing with that boat anchor. Another did not even have the ability to work with an OBDI truck. I have been talking to people about the 6.5 and have more than one express the opinion that it a gas motor done as a diesel or that is the worst piece of junk ever to leave Detroit. I have stopped even arguing. The more I work on them and drive them the more I enjoy them despite there shortcomings, most of which are easily fixable.

I keep hearing this, sucks you guys aren't closer, lol. Not sure why diesel shops etc won't do it, my Snap On scanner can set it but I also have a Tech 2. I love 6.2/6.5's, the more the merrier, :agreed: :thumbsup:

Update: Found a massive fuel leak that was letting air into the system. I fixed that yesterday. Truck runs and drives and much better. Miss is totally gone. Smoke is almost gone... the new rings may a bit of mileage to seat fully.
I still have the "rattle". I have been unable to load the new software... it keeps telling me the it cannot reads the info and that the key/ license number is bad. I have backed the pump back till it almost will go no further towards the passenger side of the motor. It only rattles under moderate to heavy throttle. Under light load and cruise nothing. If I hit a hill it rattles a bit. Idles great with no rattle. It reminds me of a gasser with too much vacuum advance. I am convinced it is a calibration issue with the chip since part throttle timing is 100% computer controlled and has almost zero to do with the position of the pump body. Any thoughts while I wait to get the software issue sorted?

Rings can take a few 1000 miles to seat, but still shouldn't cause any abnormal rattles. Maybe have the injectors tested?

Have you driven it hard, it can take awhile to get all the air out.

 

[Chevypoor]

I keep hearing this, sucks you guys aren't closer, lol. Not sure why diesel shops etc won't do it, my Snap On scanner can set it but I also have a Tech 2. I love 6.2/6.5's, the more the merrier, :agreed: :thumbsup:




Rings can take a few 1000 miles to seat, but still shouldn't cause any abnormal rattles. Maybe have the injectors tested?

Have you driven it hard, it can take awhile to get all the air out.

I know some guys that rering a motor and blammo instant ring seat. I on the other hand must suffer thru a few hundred miles of smoke!:rolleyes5:

Anyways not sure why the hatred for the 6.5. It reminds me of 305 hatred in the small block world. I happen to have one of those and it runs like stink.

I have been driving the truck a bit and it is odd. I replaced the return line from the pump with clear tubing to diagnose the air leak. No air in the system. The noise I am calling a rattle sounds like the timimg rattle you get on a really cold morning. I do not hear it idling. Once she warms up the rattle is very pronounced thru first gear and into second. Once she shifts to third it fades to intermittent rattle that is alot quieter. Then on 4th gear and lockup it is almost gone. Once I reach speed unless I hit a hill it will not rattle. It is always, rattle or no rattle, real smooth, no surge or no missing. The smoke is almost gone now. Although sometimes after I slow down and come to a stop it will blow clouds of pure white smoke. Bill was thinking the advance on the pump may be acting up. It is a brand new pump ( less than 500miles ). So my thoughts are at this point confirm and set the timing. Replace the coolant temp sensor in the crossover in case it is feeding the computer the wrong signal causing the cold advance to "stick" on. Then I am going to remove the pump and take it back to Standadyne so they check it out on the test stand. While it is out I am going to r&r the valve covers so I can check the rockers and pushrods. Maybe a rocker button pooped loose? At this point if I still have not found the problem I am going to replace the injectors.

Hopefully that gets rid of the rattle.

 

[Burning oil]

Set the timing for sure. Until you look at it you don't know where its at. Could be way adavanced.

 

[Chevypoor]

Hoping it is as simple as timing. My understanding is that the base timing has a range. I know if you go to far one way or the other it gives you an out of range code and runs a default setting. That's what happened on little d. When you get the light comes on it stops reading the position of the pump. This is GMs way of keeping a person from damaging the motor from incorrectly setting a pump. I have no light which is why I am thinking it is in the advance which the computer/ pump controls. Or maybe an injector. Thanks for all the help. I will keep you guys posted.

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[turbovanman]

I know when I did the timing chain on my customers 98, I put the pump back as best as possible and it rattled badly when I got it finished, timing was way out, reset it and quietened down a ton.

I would find a local diesel shop to test the injectors, shouldn't take all of 10 mins then you know for sure if they are good or bad.

 

[Chevypoor]

Cool thanks on the injectors. I know the obd 1 trucks are alot simpler. I have installed 2 pumps previously without timing them. Both were 95s obd1 and they ran great. I have had a couple of people at shops tell me a lot of pumps get installed with being timed. With obd 1 it was explained to me that on the 50th key start (and who knows were you are in that cycle) the computer captures the pump position and runs off of it for tdco value. The only time it is an issue is if you install it out of range. Then it throws the ses light and runs a default setting. Little ds tdco offset value was + 2.3. Very retarded and ran fine. Now after it was set to -1.85 it did start and run better. Again this is all obd1. This is also my understanding of the basics of an obd 1 setup. I could be wrong in my understanding. This what i learned when i went to set little D's timing. I know obd2 is a different animal.

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[ak diesel driver]

my 2 cents. you reported a lot of boost and power before the engine failure, are you using the same IP? If so I would try first a different PMD and then after that I'd suspect the IP. also check all the associated connections for bent prongs etc.

 

[Chevypoor]

Update: Got the Scantech registered and two used laptops later it seems to working. Now I am connected to the truck and I am getting no data on the dashboard? Help!

 

[Chevypoor]

I noticed it last time I tried to hook up the laptop #1 that the mystery rattle was qieter on the warmup drive. Same thing today except now it is almost gone! Still there but alot quieter and this time only under load, not free revving in the drive. What the heck.... the clear return fuel line to the IP says all the air is gone and has been gone for awhile. I will try to post a video later today or tomorrow.

 

[Chevypoor]

Tried to hook up the Scantech to another truck. No dice. Run the aldl test and I get a green light on all the tests. Then when I go to connect it will not connect unless I set it to non echoing. It will check for codes. If I switch it to echoing then it says invalid pcm when I ask for codes. It will not need read any live data. I am getting aggravated with this whole deal. I AM NOT AT ALL computer savvy. Anybody live close enough and knows how this stuff works and I will drive up in another truck. I do not know the correct terminology with this stuff and I am not smart enough nor do I have the patience. Sorry for the rant, I would have gladly paid more bucks for the software to be able to have live tech support.

 

[Chevypoor]

After alot of head scratching and a little research I go her figured out. The cable came with a 10 ohm resistor installed which I removed. I was also having some cable software issues. Got those sorted and bingo I am getting data. The fault codes in memory were 18 pump reference, 88 TDC offset error, and a 94 cylinder #5 balance fault code. Cleared all the codes and set the timing. Base timing is at around 3* and the TDC offset is -1.32. Took her for a drive and she is running better but still knocking/ rattling. She is also pouring white smoke under moderate acceleration and she smokes alot of mostly white smoke at idle. So I pull the codes and the same code 94 cylinder #5 balance fault. I also watched the clear fuel return to the IP as I shut her off and got 3 large bubbles coming from the metal return line back to the IP. I am assuming this means I have a bad injector as suspected. Should I even worry about having them tested or should I replace them? Or would you just replace cylinder #5 injector. What do you guys think?

 

[Burning oil]

Try turning off #5 with scan tool and then the rest one at a time and see what you get. If your going to pop test the new nozzle/s might as well look at the old one/s just to see the difference.

 

[Chevypoor]

I am not sure I understand. When I cleared the codes it did not reappear until I took it for a drive. I cut the injectors off on at a time with the software and it did not set any codes idling in the drive. When I cracked the injector line at the #5 injector it had a fine aerated mist pattern. When I cracked the # 3 injector line at the injector it shot even consistent "pulses" of fuel.

 

[Will L.]

I am not sure I understand. When I cleared the codes it did not reappear until I took it for a drive. I cut the injectors off on at a time with the software and it did not set any codes idling in the drive. When I cracked the injector line at the #5 injector it had a fine aerated mist pattern. When I cracked the # 3 injector line at the injector it shot even consistent "pulses" of fuel.

Am I misunderstanding, cracking the injector line nut? Opening the line feeding into the injector and getting different results doesn't show a problem with the injector, it would be a restricted line or ip.
If you do suspect an injector, swap it with it another and see if the problem follows it. If just one is bad try disassembling and cleaning it.

 

[Burning oil]

With scan tool you can turn one cyl off at a time (might be able to turn off multipul, can't remember) Same a cracking the injector nut with less effort if you're doing more than one.