Newbie Questions

[flhtc01]

So, I just got my CUCV and I have a few 6.2 questions. Can you let these engines idle for a length of time (meaning 15 - 20 minutes)? Do you need to use special anti-freeze in them? I have an old 2 stroke Detroit and the anti-freeze needs to contain SCAs. If and when I decide to put a turbo on these what pertinent information do I need to know before taking on an adventure such as that? Thanks for all input given.

 

[Twisted Steel Performance]

Yes you can idle them, no special antifreeze needed.....

Do lots of reading about a different turbo here, none of them are bolt on and go... some fab work will be needed with ANY turbo other than stock GM stuff...

 

[flhtc01]

SCTRAILERIDER, Thanks for replay and info.

 

[bison]

I had my 6.2 idle a couple years ago for 48 + hrs straight, had the truck and a tractor out in the field, drove home with the tractor that evening and left the truck.
Went back 2 days later to go get it and was surprised to find the thing still running,drove it home and it died plump out of fuel right in front of the fuel bulk tanks.lol
Never did any harm, it still runs good today.

 

[Chevypoor]

I worked for VDOT about 10yrs ago for a bit. During a winter storm we never shut any of the trucks off. I believe there a couple 6.5s that idled for atleast a day without moving. That was were took naps on our 12-16hr shifts.

 

[swinters]

The engine will idle for extended periods just fine. Your combustion won't be as good at idle and you'll get a small amount of fuel dilution (generally only detectable in oil analysis). If you want a bolt-on turbo kit, go with the Banks sidewinder. I've put them on 3 CUCVs and am getting ready to do another as we speak. The only thing you'll need to do on a CUCV is relocate the battery tray that goes over the right fender well since it will interfere with the turbo. If you haven't already, check out the Steel Soldiers website. They have a CUCV section and you can download all of the technical manuals from operator to overhaul. You won't find CUCV electrical parts very easy but there's a company called CUCV Electric who makes the circuits boards, relays, etc. and they are both reasonably priced and vastly superior to the originals. CUCV Electric also has a bunch of great troubleshooting guides. When you are starting your CUCV, always, always, always wait for the "Wait" light to go out. If you don't, you'll smoke the controller circuit board that's under the dash near the fuse box (CUCV Electric sells an improved one, by the way).

 

[swinters]

By the way, SCA's are normally specified in wet liner engines and generally with Heavy Duty engines to reduce or prevent the erosion of the liners from cavitation. The only light duty engine that I can remember that specifically required an SCA package was the International in the Fords, and then I think it was specific years only. I'd like to know whether GM has tested SCA packages on the 6.2L (I'd really be surprised if they didn't) and what they found. I have years of GM files on the 6.2L and will go through them but it'll take a few days so will post an update. I also have a former co-worker I'll email who works at GM in lubricants and I think also does coolants. If he doesn't also do coolants he'll certainly know who does. I've always run regular anti-freeze in my 6.2L's and change it out every 2 years. Interesting question.

 

[flhtc01]

Swinters - Thanks for the information. You seem to know a lot about the CUCVs. Mine has been butchered in that it has all been switched to 12V to include switching the fuse block out. Other than that it seems to have been well taken care of. The turbo is a thought for down the road and nothing that I will be doing any time soon but, I was just wondering what all was involved.

 

[swinters]

Swinters - Thanks for the information. You seem to know a lot about the CUCVs. Mine has been butchered in that it has all been switched to 12V to include switching the fuse block out. Other than that it seems to have been well taken care of. The turbo is a thought for down the road and nothing that I will be doing any time soon but, I was just wondering what all was involved.

I've worked on more CUCV's than I can remember and am still getting tagged to help out on them. They're great trucks and are really reliable with just basic care. On the 12V, that's pretty commonly done. We converted a bunch of them to 12V for the Forest Service and it was pretty easy and worked well. I have a copy of the Forest Services plans in digits. Also posted them online, so should show up in an internet search. On the turbo, you should still be able to download a copy of the installation guide for the Banks sidewinder from their website. It'll give you the basic setup and what you'll need to plan for, even if you make up your own kit. Also tells how to tweak the injection pump. When you do it make sure you install a pyrometer so you can keep an eye on temps and avoid melting pistons and stuff like that.

 

[flhtc01]

Swinters - Quick question. What is the best way to cold start my 6.2L CUCV? I have a GP bypass and new Duraterm GPs.

 

[WarWagon]

You can get the Banks kits part by part so you can use what ever turbo you like. You don't have to use the Banks turbo. Keep in mind you will want bigger turbo precups if you go with larger turbos as the 6.2 precups will smoke bad trying to put a lot of fuel to them.

 

[swinters]

Swinters - Quick question. What is the best way to cold start my 6.2L CUCV? I have a GP bypass and new Duraterm GPs.

Without knowing what kind of setup someone has put on there it's hard to say. I've seen trucks where they swapped everything over from a regular truck and others where they just put on a switch and manually cycled the glow plugs until the engine warmed up. Do you have any idea what setup was put on yours?

 

[Burning oil]

Ive got a banks manifold thread going now.
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?40875-Banks-sidewinder-exhaust-manifold-group-buy

 

[WarWagon]

Oh, going to a turbo will drop your MPG enough to notice.

 

[flhtc01]

Without knowing what kind of setup someone has put on there it's hard to say. I've seen trucks where they swapped everything over from a regular truck and others where they just put on a switch and manually cycled the glow plugs until the engine warmed up. Do you have any idea what setup was put on yours?

I have pretty much a civilian configuration in that the GP relay is a nomal off the shelf unit and all the 12v resistor is gone.

 

[Will L.]

Oh, going to a turbo will drop your MPG enough to notice.

I didn't. I have seen other trucks that did.

I went from 6.5 with db2 stock settings, hummer uses "header manifolds" n/a. I put on the more restrictive van manifolds to the gm6 turbo and smaller down pipe. More power in low end, all the way to 2850 rpm ( used to be 3000 rpm that where I can feel the choked exhaust messed up). I have not went to 4" yet. I turned up the fuel screw 1/2 turn or a bit more. When i full throttle from a stop i get a 12"-18" puff of smoke now. My mileage stayed exactly the same, I drive the same, I just get up to speed much quicker now. It used to be I couldn't keep up with traffic leaving stop light or climbing long hills. I can now no problem power wise, just higher egt on the climbs heat up the ect quicker now. Wanting to do the 4" and see what that changes. Probably February. Most my driving is hiway 70%, city 30%. I don't try to measure off roading.

 

[turbovanman]

Oh, going to a turbo will drop your MPG enough to notice.

Says who? My in town stayed the same, road trips with hills I gained roughly 5 mpg and towing gained quite a few too. The shear fact that I don't need to plan ahead to merge, tow and go up hills would be worth a MPG drop but in reality, a turbo is a win win on every front, plus I can burn alternate fuels.