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HX40II Turbo Install

JiFaire said:
ROFL !! That's a new one on me ... Nice!!
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It's bad when you look in your rear view mirror and you can't see the cars behind you, or only their headlights through the inky murkiness at night! Just like a squid inking! Must be from running away from the 7.3 Powerjokes!
 
this is by far one of the better threads I've ever read, great info, can't wait to see the ATT vs the HX40 tests.
 
still pretty good towing a 5th wheel at about 11k loaded
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I agree! That is a lot of weight.

I look like a freaking squid fleeing a predator at times!
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baahahahahaha! That's a funny mental image.


Prepare for a good report tomorrow when I fill up... 500 miles at half a tank! 80/20 highway/city :)
 
19.1 MPG 80/20 highway/city!!! On winter blend.

Speedo is balls on accurate at 60 MPH. 3 times checked on the Rt 13 bridge to Norfolk, apparently they take speeding seriously there.

HX40II = Mileage WIN!
 
turbonator said:
That is right, he dyno'd just under 300rwhp......still an awesome dyno run and a great build. Our hats are off to anybody that can get the IDI platform to dyno over 275hp at the wheels. At this point in time, we have only seen 4 or 5 confirmed to be at this level of power, whether they be GM or Navistar (the Ford Navistar) blocks. Still have not seen actual data on anyone getting to these power levels with the GM Navistar blocks. It is coming though, lots of performance builds going on now....:thumbsup:
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Last I checked he had never dyno'd the final build but had a 1/4 mile calc or something showing in the 330 range (i may be wrong, just shooting off the top of my head) and was getting a higher out put IP. Not trying to argue the fact, I gave up on the reading because of all the negative trash talk.
 
tanman_2006 said:
Last I checked he had never dyno'd the final build but had a 1/4 mile calc or something showing in the 330 range (i may be wrong, just shooting off the top of my head) and was getting a higher out put IP. Not trying to argue the fact, I gave up on the reading because of all the negative trash talk.
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he did it eventually dyno it but it was lower than he thought since it was in the high 200's. He was also having some problems with his ip
 
racedaymechanic said:
right at 2000 rpm 4.10 gears, I have no plans to put a sender in for drive pressures
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Hi Bruce I've been working gobs of hours so no time to be on at all, would not have been on tonight except I got a PM notice email I needed to reply to. Anyway drive pressure is a big part of the equation of what turbo efficieny is and IMO should be part of any evaluation along with IAT. When I started collecting data for the ATT R&D back when I started helping figure a better "mousetrap" than GM-8, I was flabbergasted how much drive energy/backpressure was created/required to attain boost at higher levels.

Ideally 1-1 ratio is what you want but there are some significant trades one has to consider to attain that or come close to it. GM-Xs quick spool off line but boosting ability drops off fast at higher boost levels, boost climbs but slowly by comparison to other turbos being toued with, also as boost climbs so does IAT.

What I did for collecting drive pressure was rather simple, drilled/tapped in main collector just below the turbo and got a cheap boost gauge (in $20 range the ricer kids are so proud of to add for cool factor ) and plumbed into the cab with 1/8" copper gauge kit. It aint the most accurate thing, but does allow me to collect some reasonably consistent real time observations of boost vs. drive press/back press the turbo/engine are dealing with., also lets me know when things like a rotten crossover or other exhaust drive issue is present.

I'm seeing age on my ole girl as seat of pant kick isn't what it was when 1st going to ATT 140K miles ago, valves & other stuff age/wear starting to show, new engine ready for install waiting for time for me to get around to doing it.

Thought Id suggest the el cheapo gauge route as an option for another pertinent data point, I just slaved mine in for temporary duty & have it hanging off my cup holder, I may make it purty/permanent one day, but if not a 1/8" NPT pipe plug into the manifold and I can remove the gauge/line altogether. Using copper as it won't melt like plastic gauge line could, and it dissipates heat fast enough I'm not melting stuff in the cab or gauge "innards" :)

BTW still need cables for burb & truck, just havent had time to work on either, but will eventually place the order I promise :)

Tim
 
Pillow said:
19.1 MPG 80/20 highway/city!!! On winter blend.

Speedo is balls on accurate at 60 MPH. 3 times checked on the Rt 13 bridge to Norfolk, apparently they take speeding seriously there.

HX40II = Mileage WIN!
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Good #s on the mpg dovetails to the better mpg I saw/see with my turbo configuration; key here is less backpressure you have to contend with = better mpg, ergo 6.2 N/As that got-get into 24 mpg when healthy, but to make the engine have grunt for pulling & sustaining loads you need a turbo better matched to task at hand to keep the engine pulling to its full potential.
 
Turbine Doc said:
Hi Bruce I've been working gobs of hours so no time to be on at all, would not have been on tonight except I got a PM notice email I needed to reply to. Anyway drive pressure is a big part of the equation of what turbo efficieny is and IMO should be part of any evaluation along with IAT. When I started collecting data for the ATT R&D back when I started helping figure a better "mousetrap" than GM-8, I was flabbergasted how much drive energy/backpressure was created/required to attain boost at higher levels.

Ideally 1-1 ratio is what you want but there are some significant trades one has to consider to attain that or come close to it. GM-Xs quick spool off line but boosting ability drops off fast at higher boost levels, boost climbs but slowly by comparison to other turbos being toued with, also as boost climbs so does IAT.

What I did for collecting drive pressure was rather simple, drilled/tapped in main collector just below the turbo and got a cheap boost gauge (in $20 range the ricer kids are so proud of to add for cool factor ) and plumbed into the cab with 1/8" copper gauge kit. It aint the most accurate thing, but does allow me to collect some reasonably consistent real time observations of boost vs. drive press/back press the turbo/engine are dealing with., also lets me know when things like a rotten crossover or other exhaust drive issue is present.

I'm seeing age on my ole girl as seat of pant kick isn't what it was when 1st going to ATT 140K miles ago, valves & other stuff age/wear starting to show, new engine ready for install waiting for time for me to get around to doing it.

Thought Id suggest the el cheapo gauge route as an option for another pertinent data point, I just slaved mine in for temporary duty & have it hanging off my cup holder, I may make it purty/permanent one day, but if not a 1/8" NPT pipe plug into the manifold and I can remove the gauge/line altogether. Using copper as it won't melt like plastic gauge line could, and it dissipates heat fast enough I'm not melting stuff in the cab or gauge "innards" :)

BTW still need cables for burb & truck, just havent had time to work on either, but will eventually place the order I promise :)

Tim
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Ive got senders, Gauges ect. Rusty gave me lots of stuff when we shut RWR down so having the parts is not an issue, I just never thought it was a big deal
 
Pillow said:
19.1 MPG 80/20 highway/city!!! On winter blend.

Speedo is balls on accurate at 60 MPH. 3 times checked on the Rt 13 bridge to Norfolk, apparently they take speeding seriously there.

HX40II = Mileage WIN!
Click to expand...

Thats great Im not quite that good, but Im really liking what im seeing, especially towing
 
racedaymechanic said:
Ive got senders, Gauges ect. Rusty gave me lots of stuff when we shut RWR down so having the parts is not an issue, I just never thought it was a big deal
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No not really a big deal but I'm into numbers and data, probably a carryover from my days at a operators console on the ship and in turbine test cells where the deltas between run A & B are what we used to keep tabs on performance and health changes.
 
Those are good numbers, for mileage. I get 18 to 19 consistent on the highway. Got 11 mpg towing 26000 pounds for 1000 miles. AND all of the time I run 80 at 2700 rpm and get 15 consistently on winter fuel.
 
So what I'm really looking for is a turbo that will spool fairly quickly with minimum backpressure and be flowing good CFM's at 1600-2200 rpm for optimal combustion efficiency (power AND MPG's) while Interstate cruising at 65-85 MPH. High RPM flow and boost isn't that critical for what I'm looking for, as I won't be geared that deep like a 4.10 nor will I be towing a heavy load. Most likely will re-gear with 3.42's front and rear (really wish I could find a 3.21 for the 9.25" IFS diff!) as opposed to going with a Gearvendor O/D after the transfer case for 2WD cruising only because of the co$t factor.
 
Husker6.5 said:
So what I'm really looking for is a turbo that will spool fairly quickly with minimum backpressure and be flowing good CFM's at 1600-2200 rpm for optimal combustion efficiency (power AND MPG's) while Interstate cruising at 65-85 MPH. High RPM flow and boost isn't that critical for what I'm looking for, as I won't be geared that deep like a 4.10 nor will I be towing a heavy load. Most likely will re-gear with 3.42's front and rear (really wish I could find a 3.21 for the 9.25" IFS diff!) as opposed to going with a Gearvendor O/D after the transfer case for 2WD cruising only because of the co$t factor.
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If your asking me, shoot me a pm and I will give you my number we can discuss it.
 
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