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Bunch of codes,white smoke and shaking.

Problem Child

Non Diesel mechanic
Messages
64
Reaction score
10
Location
Mississippi
About a month ago I had to replace the lift pump in my 95 Suburban in a O'Reilly's Auto Parts parking lot.It has ran fine ever since but on shutdown I have been hearing the lift pump miss a little and it almost sounds like the noise is at the engine instead of on the rail???

Well Friday I drove about 20 miles to a pawn shop and I noticed the engine running a few degrees warmer than normal.

Of course it was about 96 degrees out and I was running about 75 all the way,so I didn't think much about it.BTW...I have the high output waterpump and 9 blade fan.

When I came out of the pawn shop I cranked the truck like normal,running fine,put it in gear,everything's fine, and then out of nowhere,it starts shaking badly.I turned off the AC,put it back in park and revved it up. Still shaking, I slammed her in gear and took off.

It shook at low speeds but not as bad when I hit 70 on the highway. I came on home and every time I slowed down it would shake.

I checked the codes when I got home and it read a 92,93,94.....Cylinder Balance Faults.

Saturday I started working on the truck.

I first checked the lift pump. Everything seemed fine according to the lift pump test,although I didn't check fuel pressure.There was some black stuff(??)coming out of the drain line from the valve. It doesn't seem to be solid because you can touch it and it desolves.

Next I changed the fuel filter.Cranked the truck, and still shaking. After that I changed the fuel line coming from the the filter canister to the fuel injection pump and also the line going to the T valve but did not change the 3/8 line that goes from the steel line to the back of the filter canister.Cranked the truck again and still shaking.

Well after I changed the lift pump last month,I decided to check the old pump with a battery and It still seemed to be working ,so I decided I would stick it back on the truck.

The missing lift pump noise that seemed to be coming from the engine went away, but the truck is still shaking. I also did the lift pump test on the (old) pump and according to the test,it's fine.....again,I didn't check it with a pressure gauge.
So.....now I move to the PMD.My PMD is mounted behind the front
bumper with an extended harness and heat sink.I stuck my old PMD back in and still shaking.

Today I took the lift pump that I put on a month ago back to O Reilly's and exchanged it for a new one,came home,put it on and still no change.What's next???
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Black stuff came out of the drain??? Do you have any hypothesis for this? Do you use any odd fuel sources, used motor oil, Biodiesel, WVO, etc..... When you changed filter did you clean out the filter manager? Check to see if the little last ditch filter screen is on the center shaft, and if its clogged. How did you check out the lift pump if you didnt check pressure?

Next thing I would do is take the IP inlet fitting off and inspect the screens on it. there is one obvious large screen when you pull it up, and one on the bottom tip.

What you have sounds like fouled fuel injectors. And the presence of mystery black stuff doesnt sound good.
 
Black stuff from the filter drain ??? Not good. Sounds like Algae. A fuel sample is in order. Running bad fuel or water in fuel will wipe an IP quickly. Cylinder balance codes are because the engine is running uneven and the PCM is going nuts trying to make it right. Take the fuel line off at the IP and fill a nice clean empty Gatorade bottle(or what ever) and see hwo the fuel looks. Better yet let it sit overnight and see what settles to the bottom. It should be clean and look like a yellowy color almost like a nice beer(mmmmm...Beeeerrrr..) Dirty or contaminated fuel will screw up the Optical sensor in the IP.
 
Do you think this might be my problem ???:rolleyes5:
DSC01345.jpg
 
OMG :eek:

What the hell is that?

So I take it when you changed the filter you did not clean out the filter housing ):h You need to drop the tank and check it out too.

And inspect the screens on the IP inlet. Either it gummed up the IP, fouled the injectors, or your problems were caused by that crap blinding the Optical Sensor in the IP, but that usually comes with a few other codes.
 
Someone must have been pooring WVO in there without filtering it or something.

Clean that out, inspect the tank, and you can see if some seafoam or some kind of strong detergent can clean out the IP and injectors. Although I would pour that stuff directly into the filter housing and not in the fuel tank.
 
Drop the tank, send it out. Most radiator shops will clean fuel tanks. Heck they are not that much money new. I think I paid about 170$ for a new one from Advance auto. Purge then entire fuel system and clean all sceens, change filters and PRAY..
 
Meh, neglected fuel systems can look like that.

The FM I pulled in the scrap yard looked similar, but not quite that bad.

You do need to scouge it out though. Bet that last chance filter is clogged pretty solid...
 
Meh, neglected fuel systems can look like that.

The FM I pulled in the scrap yard looked similar, but not quite that bad.

You do need to scouge it out though. Bet that last chance filter is clogged pretty solid...

Actually it was pretty clean,but I'm getting a new one Friday.
 
I pulled the fitting out of the IP this morning to check the screens(kinda in a way hoping they were clogged).They're clean as a whistle.I also pulled the tank yesterday.Looks like a little algae but nothing serious.I have a new sending unit on the way since no one around here has the sock/strainer and I can get the whole unit for $50 more than ordering the strainer on line.
 
You could just ditch the sock and put a Racor filter before the LP

I'm not quite sure this is best course of action, bear with me for a moment; the Diesel sock is 70 micron so lets some rather large stuff pass but blocks really big stuff, but it also has a check valve in the end of it in case it becomes fully blocked.

I've often wondered why the check valve, gasser tank socks don't have it, is this to allow "thick" gelled/partially gelled fuel to flow in winter around a 70 mic
filter, if no sock then a Racor or other in cold climate without a heater element in it is a plugged 30 mic or less gel plugged filter, does the sock keep some the gelling more manageable? Lets continue in another thread.
 
I pulled the fitting out of the IP this morning to check the screens(kinda in a way hoping they were clogged).They're clean as a whistle.I also pulled the tank yesterday.Looks like a little algae but nothing serious.I have a new sending unit on the way since no one around here has the sock/strainer and I can get the whole unit for $50 more than ordering the strainer on line.

Well....that didn't work out.Even though I told the guy( twice ) that it was for a 6.5 Diesel,he still ordered the wrong one.
 
Two weeks later,four rolls of blue shop towels,several bandaids,BC's,dead grass in the yard around my truck,many phone calls amd PM's and.....she's finally running again.:thumbsup: I guess a $0.96 rocker arm retainer was the culprit.It had allowed the rocker arm to slip over and the push rod was just sitting there. I replaced the rod and all of the retainers,also resealed the valve covers,cleaned out the tank and sock,new lines from the fuel manager,new injectors and lines,new glow plugs and new oil cooler and lines(which I'm doing next weekend).Thanks to everyone.:thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
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