New FUEL PRESSURE TAP for GAUGES!!!

[Burning oil]

I have always like "simple" This new Fuel pressure tap will make it very easy to add a fuel pressure gauge to your truck. Alot of pepole hold off on putting a gauge in the 6.5 trucks because there is not a real easy way, until now.

This a new product I am making and have in stock ready to ship $30.



Just remove the original plastic air bleed on the fuel filter.

Install the new fuel pressure tap. It has an oring that will seal on the filter.



It has 1/8" pipe so you can install a electric sending unit.



You can also use a mechanical gauge set up.

 

[Burning oil]

It will be messuring pre filter pressure, so you can tell when the filter is getting dirty.
You will also know what your lift pump is doing.

 

[DieselSlug]

Sweet, i will have to add that to my list before i get my engine in the truck.
SO far:
Oil cooler kit
OPS extender


My only question is what would be a good way to get the air out after you change your filter? I used it to prime and bleed the air out while jumping the relay. I would use a mechanical guage. Maybe a t fitting so it can still be a drain?

 

[dangerousdave]

The new product looks great. My first time on your site, wish I knew about you in '92. We were in Houston 12 years, 2 'Burbs. Oh, the hours and $$ you could have saved me. Texas still owes me $300 in overages on taxes, then I'll be ordering.
Is Webster still a quiet little town, as it was in the '90s?

 

[Burning oil]

Sweet, i will have to add that to my list before i get my engine in the truck.
SO far:
Oil cooler kit
OPS extender


My only question is what would be a good way to get the air out after you change your filter? I used it to prime and bleed the air out while jumping the relay. I would use a mechanical guage. Maybe a t fitting so it can still be a drain?

Let me know, I'll be ready when you are.

The new product looks great. My first time on your site, wish I knew about you in '92. We were in Houston 12 years, 2 'Burbs. Oh, the hours and $$ you could have saved me. Texas still owes me $300 in overages on taxes, then I'll be ordering.
Is Webster still a quiet little town, as it was in the '90s?

Webster (town next to me) has changed alot. The Nasa Rd 1 bypass is almost done too. When you get that $300 come see me

 

[Turbine Doc]

Wouldn't it have been easier to put a tee into the line that supplies the drain valve, that way you could maintain the air bleed, that would be prefilter, if that is what you want to monitor ????

But I'm confused how monitoring pre filter will tell you if filter is getting dirty, what you really want to know, to detect a dirty filter is after the filter, if pressure going to IP goes down that means the filter is dirty/reducing flow, or lift isn't putting out the required delivery.

IMO okay idea but going about it the hard way

 

[matuva]

Nice idea Leroy

Tim, I was wondering too if close the bleeder should be a nice spot for the fuel pressure sending unit.

In both cases, how would the sending unit resist to engine vibrations ?

 

[Burning oil]

Wouldn't it have been easier to put a tee into the line that supplies the drain valve, that way you could maintain the air bleed, that would be prefilter, if that is what you want to monitor ????

But I'm confused how monitoring pre filter will tell you if filter is getting dirty, what you really want to know, to detect a dirty filter is after the filter, if pressure going to IP goes down that means the filter is dirty/reducing flow, or lift isn't putting out the required delivery.

IMO okay idea but going about it the hard way

Hey TD, I would say it would actualy be easier to install the FPT (fuel pressure tap) (and cleaner)
With my design you still keep the air bleed function. It has an oring seal on the bottom. Just hand tighten the FPT, when you want to bleed the air for priming the filter just loosen the FPT and air will escape until fuel comes out. One benifit of using the FPT is a person could plumb in a tee and a ball valve to direct the fuel (when bleeding) somewhere other than all over there engine and down the engine valley.
I work on and with filters everyday and think both prefilter and post filter pressures can be very informative.
Prefilter: if the pressures go up from normal that is a sign the filter is getting dirty. If it gos down it could be an obstruction before the LP like a snotty sock, the LP is going bad or possibly a leak between the LP and FPT.

The best would be to monitor both pre/post filter and see the differential.

This is not the hard way. Literaly a 2 minute job (for just the FPT). No drilling, taping removing parts off the engine.....ect

 

[Turbine Doc]

Nice idea Leroy

Tim, I was wondering too if close the bleeder should be a nice spot for the fuel pressure sending unit.

In both cases, how would the sending unit resist to engine vibrations ?

If a tee into a rubber line that should dampen vibration, I would suspect more prone to vibes on the filter mgr, that said sensor must be fairly robust as normally it would bolt onto a hard point on engine I think, I'd like to see a smaller pressure sensor but probably that would be more $$$.

 

[Burning oil]

Nice idea Leroy

Tim, I was wondering too if close the bleeder should be a nice spot for the fuel pressure sending unit.

In both cases, how would the sending unit resist to engine vibrations ?

It will be fine.):h

 

[Turbine Doc]

Hey TD, I would say it would actualy be easier to install the FPT (fuel pressure tap) (and cleaner)
With my design you still keep the air bleed function. It has an oring seal on the bottom. Just hand tighten the FPT, when you want to bleed the air for priming the filter just loosen the FPT and air will escape until fuel comes out. One benifit of using the FPT is a person could plumb in a tee and a ball valve to direct the fuel (when bleeding) somewhere other than all over there engine and down the engine valley. Same reason my filter is now off engine easier filter change, no fuel on engine,

I work on and with filters everyday and think both prefilter and post filter pressures can be very informative. So do I, and if going with just one gage you need to monitor the filter outlet IMO not it's inlet

Prefilter: if the pressures go up from normal that is a sign the filter is getting dirty.
if you had a non regulating pump, but remember on the 6.5 lift pump it will cut off on high pressure from a blocked filter and why you need to monitor the supply side to the IP for pressure discrepancy, as that is the end user of the fuel so that would IMO be the best most remote pressure monitor need, sort of like a most remote bearing monitor in a gear train, if it has oil one can assume rest of the system probably has oil

If it goes down it could be an obstruction before the LP like a snotty sock, the LP is going bad or possibly a leak between the LP and FPT.

The best would be to monitor both pre/post filter and see the differential.
Vac switch works better IMO if going single sensor I have 2 vac switches but only need the one since high vac at outlet of filter mgr/IP inlet lets me know something in system is wrong, including clogged sock

This is not the hard way. Literaly a 2 minute job (for just the FPT). No drilling, taping removing parts off the engine.....ect

comments added

 

[bison]

IMO,best place is right at the IP inlet,there's where it matters most.
on the 95 I got it Teed in the short straight section in the IP supply hose at the Ip inlet,all bases are covered, easy and fast install.

On the 98,i relocated the filter to the dr side fender and teed in right after the filter into the the IP supply as well.

 

[SmithvilleD]

Since I got no answer to my PM asking a key question, I'll post it here in the thread.

Have you actually run this configuration & noted significant pressure differences that track well with filter flow?

I have also worked with many different fuel systems, filters, pumps, & gauge setups. The OEM, solenoid type lift pumps, pump to shutoff pressure, then stop 'til fuel flow bleeds off pressure to where they start again, pumping 'til shutoff pressure.

The highest inj pump fuel demands will certainly show lower fuel pressure after a filter w/ reduced flow. The question is, is there a clearly discernable change in fuel pressure ahead of a reduced flow filter?

 

[Burning oil]

You both make good points. I agree that post filter PSI is more usefull. This is geared toward the person thats wants an easy way to hook up a fuel PSI gauge in just a coulple minutes.

Leroy

 

[SmithvilleD]

3rd try.

Have you actually run this configuration & noted significant pressure differences that track well with filter flow?

 

[Burning oil]

Take a chill pill, from my last post until yours was only 9 minutes and its 1:15ish in the morning,
I am sorry, I did see your PM, but got busy and forgot to reply.
So, to answer you. I have only (so far) ran this with a mechanical gauge. I will try to hook up an electric soon. Pressures were tyipical. I really don't have a way to messure the flow.

EDIT: Im going to bed now, so may not be able to reply again until morning :Eyecrazy:

 

[turbovanman]

If a tee into a rubber line that should dampen vibration, I would suspect more prone to vibes on the filter mgr, that said sensor must be fairly robust as normally it would bolt onto a hard point on engine I think, I'd like to see a smaller pressure sensor but probably that would be more $$$.

Correct, the senders are designed for engine blocks etc so mounting it there will be totally livable.

Great idea, quick, fast, easy.

 

[SmithvilleD]

In consulting w/ AutoMeter several years back, they said that it was most often pressure pulsation that killed both mechanical pressure gauges, as well as the somewhat less common death of electric pressure senders. Mechanical pressure gauges are isolated from eng vibration & the electric senders were designed to tolerate some vibration.

Some direct mount, mechanical gauges, as well as senders showed increased failure rates when mounted direct to gasser fuel injector, fuel rails running pressure in the ~40-65 psi range. They recommended adding a pulsation damper (or replacing the one the factory put there for a reason). This improved both gauge lifespan & injection event volume precision.

For those running the Walbro lp & a fuel pressure gauge, and find it annoying that the gauge reading is constantly bouncing (at low fuel demands) from each pulse of the lift pump solenoid, I'll be testing a cheap ($4) solution that's all but eliminated this symptom on a piece of diesel equipment we run.

If it works the same on my 6.5 truck, it'll attenuate the annoying needle bounce & probably improve gauge life to boot.

 

[Desert]

Filter Top Pressure Tap

My version from 2006.

I had never removed the filter manager and thought that the outside of the filter, with the dirt and the drain, was the inlet side. I was surprised when TD did "Feed the Beast" and learned that the bleed is on the inlet side.
The pressure at the bleed port still varies with the Go pedal. I cannot say what the affect of a plugged filter will be as I change it every 6000 miles.

I also moved the drain valve to here.

The clear tubing connects the two valves and allows me to collect fuel in a jar for inspection.

In the future I will move the sensor to the injector pump inlet.

 

[Acesneights1]

Autometer makes a "snubber' for use with diesels. ON Cummins it's a must have . aLSO IIRC Autometer recommends using an extension hose from tapoint to sender to absorb vibration. I just ordered an Autometer fuel rpressure gauge , and snubber for my cummins.