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Offroad toy?

red

stubborn Texan displaced to Utah
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Location
Eagle Mountain, Utah
Thread starter #1
Picked this up yesterday (literally). Not sure yet if I'll keep it to become the rock crawler or fix/flip for cash. 1984 M1009 (k5 blazer) with a 6.2 diesel, th400 trans, np208 tcase, and 3.08 axle gears. Sitting on worn out 33" tires with some rust issues on the body and the wiring partially torn apart (previous owner diagnosed a bad ignition switch but got in over his head).

IMG_20180809_161428395.jpg IMG_20180810_120643234_HDR.jpg IMG_20180810_120743384_HDR.jpg IMG_20180810_120824614_HDR.jpg IMG_20180810_120834664_HDR.jpg


If I keep it then the number of 6.2's I have is multiplying hahaha. Which keeping it is what I'm leaning towards. That does affect the build plans with the crew cab (discussed in it's thread) and gives the benefit of a backup vehicle that happens to share the same engine.
 

Will L.

Well-Known Member
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Boulder City Nv
#2
Fix it exactly how you want it. Because if you want to sell for profit, all done up is how you make the most $. Then if you sell it you make good cash. If you keep it you get what you want. Maybe you keep it half dozen years then sell it.

Interior nice but weatherproof. Bimini top, keep the hard top for winter and resell options. Descent paint, locker, etc like you mentioned. As light as it is I would go hx35/40 turbo just turn up ip and new turbo injectors. Pass ATT because all heavy towing would be with the crew cab, and more low end zip for fun and rock crawling from a dead stop.
 

red

stubborn Texan displaced to Utah
Messages
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Location
Eagle Mountain, Utah
Thread starter #3
Not sure if I'll even bother with engine upgrades actually. When offroad I usually try to idle/low rpm over obstacles. Headed to the annual Blazer Bash in Moab during early september which will be a good baseline test assuming it's driving by then (should be)
 

Will L.

Well-Known Member
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Location
Boulder City Nv
#4
Having done a k5 6.2 with and without turbo- yeah better with it off road. Makes a nice difference in the hummer and that was just gm6 with crappy homemade turbo master.
You said the hx35 you have is 9 housing- yeah that married with the 40 breather would keep you in good low end.

Much easier to use 50% when you could go 100% than to be at 100% and 125%...

Plus about 10% better mpg.
 
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2,366
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1,402
Location
Nature Coast
#5
Fix it exactly how you want it. Because if you want to sell for profit, all done up is how you make the most $. Then if you sell it you make good cash. If you keep it you get what you want. Maybe you keep it half dozen years then sell it.

Interior nice but weatherproof. Bimini top, keep the hard top for winter and resell options. Descent paint, locker, etc like you mentioned. As light as it is I would go hx35/40 turbo just turn up ip and new turbo injectors. Pass ATT because all heavy towing would be with the crew cab, and more low end zip for fun and rock crawling from a dead stop.
A small modern blower (supercharger can be had on the cheap & would be an easy fit and making torque from idle up.
 

red

stubborn Texan displaced to Utah
Messages
1,615
Likes
488
Location
Eagle Mountain, Utah
Thread starter #6
A small modern blower (supercharger can be had on the cheap & would be an easy fit and making torque from idle up.

Where have you found a supercharger for a 6.2 diesel for cheap?

Dove into the column yesterday evening (which is not my area of knowledge haha). The ignition switch had been assembled on the wrong teeth so it couldn't turn far enough to engage the starter. Tried pushing that lever by hand a few times and it still won't activate the starter. Going to recharge the batts today and if that doesn't fix it then will pull for testing. If it's no good then I'm going to finish removing the 24v stuff from the truck since the starter is one of just 2 remaining 24v system parts remaining.
 
Messages
2,366
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1,402
Location
Nature Coast
#7
Where have you found a supercharger for a 6.2 diesel for cheap?

Dove into the column yesterday evening (which is not my area of knowledge haha). The ignition switch had been assembled on the wrong teeth so it couldn't turn far enough to engage the starter. Tried pushing that lever by hand a few times and it still won't activate the starter. Going to recharge the batts today and if that doesn't fix it then will pull for testing. If it's no good then I'm going to finish removing the 24v stuff from the truck since the starter is one of just 2 remaining 24v system parts remaining.
For the 6.2/6.5 not cheap you retrofit any of the various units sold on the bay or CL onto your intake or mount on side like atl or ac compressor w/air blown from supercharger into intake....a large unit would not need a CAC/IC while pumping lots of cfm @ low boost.
 

red

stubborn Texan displaced to Utah
Messages
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Likes
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Location
Eagle Mountain, Utah
Thread starter #8
Although the batts were low, still not the problem. They were already wired in as 12v rather than 24v so going to lower the starter to the ground where the wiring is accessible and find out if it's just not getting the signal, or if it's no good. Need to finish loading up my scrap metal first so might not get to the k5 until tomorrow.
 
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