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I've decided to do a Cummin's conversion

FellowTraveler

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Thread starter #261
Sounds cool so far.

I question the starter change because how does that trans operate without power? Local emp strong enough to take it out will bring down the trans capabilities. You need a stick shift if serious.

Spring starters have shorter life and more cost, usually less performance.

Spare normal starter and spare alternator in a metal ammo box as a faraday cage makes more sense. Then you have spares for normal break down nonzombie days. IMO a key to prepping is stock normal use items that in the end save you $ regardless of zombies, not cost more.
Its a bear of a job at my age and health level but a can do.

The trans would revert to 3 speed only w/o power and not leave me stranded, manual conversion is good idea too.

Well the spring starter is the cheapest of of the non-electric starter variants (air, hydraulic) just mulling it for now and parts that go bad in units are small compared to say a complete electric starter..

When I travel I do carry spares.
 

Will L.

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Yeah, not sure how the cummins starter would be inside the other rig, but not too bad in a dodge iirc.

Are you replacing the fuel solenoid with a cable?
If so, come up With anti theft plan, or at least make cable not easily noticed.

Since that is the default on the trans, cool!

If you already carry spares, just use ammo cans to hold them in for emp protection and to keep them from getting damaged in normal transport. Don’t sweat the battery, emp adds power to it.
 

THEFERMANATOR

FRANKENBURBAN
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Staff #263
What auto climate control? I've never seen auto climate control in a gmt-400. Yours should have the 96-2000 model basic control head that could care less if the engine is running. Stock it sends a signal to the ecm which in turn controls the a/c relay, but that is simple enough to bypass.
 

FellowTraveler

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Thread starter #264
What auto climate control? I've never seen auto climate control in a gmt-400. Yours should have the 96-2000 model basic control head that could care less if the engine is running. Stock it sends a signal to the ecm which in turn controls the a/c relay, but that is simple enough to bypass.
Happy New Year FERM, as usual I suspected you'd chime in on that one "with facts" and I thank you.

I was reading one built as it related to a 99 Chevy electrical interfacing on a between the 6.5td and 6bt 12 valve on another site and the poster stated that there needs to be a 4 tooth signal from the crank sensor for the HVAC to operate then they went on how they did theirs by notching the 6bt balancer at two other locations all 45 deg apart. I haven't jumped into that one yet and did figure if anyone knew the facts on it "it would be you."
 

FellowTraveler

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Thread starter #265
Yeah, not sure how the cummins starter would be inside the other rig, but not too bad in a dodge iirc.

Are you replacing the fuel solenoid with a cable?
If so, come up With anti theft plan, or at least make cable not easily noticed.

Since that is the default on the trans, cool!

If you already carry spares, just use ammo cans to hold them in for emp protection and to keep them from getting damaged in normal transport. Don’t sweat the battery, emp adds power to it.
Happy New Year!

Yep, the Dodge starter hands down is an easy R&R on the Burb.....

Yes, using a cable & yes already have a few counter measures for that one.

I always liked the 2 year run Dodge 47RH because of its hydro tail housing on the old Ram 3500 when it came time to rebuild it the cost was what I call reasonable however; for this conversion I studied it and figured I could handle a built & upgrade it for reliability and torque capacity at the same time.

I'm shielding the harness where ever I can "still in a learning curve on this one."

Yep, its been a long time but the way I see it "it's worth the time invested."
 

THEFERMANATOR

FRANKENBURBAN
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Staff #267
Happy New Year FERM, as usual I suspected you'd chime in on that one "with facts" and I thank you.

I was reading one built as it related to a 99 Chevy electrical interfacing on a between the 6.5td and 6bt 12 valve on another site and the poster stated that there needs to be a 4 tooth signal from the crank sensor for the HVAC to operate then they went on how they did theirs by notching the 6bt balancer at two other locations all 45 deg apart. I haven't jumped into that one yet and did figure if anyone knew the facts on it "it would be you."
Many for some reason still think you must retain the stock 6.5l ECM for the guages to work which is as false as can be as the ECM does nothing in a diesel for the cluster. If you retain the ECM and stock wiring, then yes you would have to provide the ECM with a crank signal. But it's FAR easier to just run the A/C request to a relay and install a WOT cutoff switch if you want one. Just make sure and keep all your safety switched wired correctly as GM did it really screwy stock. I would reccomend starting over and do your own wiring for the safety switches.
 

FellowTraveler

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Thread starter #268
Many for some reason still think you must retain the stock 6.5l ECM for the guages to work which is as false as can be as the ECM does nothing in a diesel for the cluster. If you retain the ECM and stock wiring, then yes you would have to provide the ECM with a crank signal. But it's FAR easier to just run the A/C request to a relay and install a WOT cutoff switch if you want one. Just make sure and keep all your safety switched wired correctly as GM did it really screwy stock. I would reccomend starting over and do your own wiring for the safety switches.
You rock FERM I will do as suggested, thanks.
 

LowRam

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Whew! Took awhile but I read all 14 pages that cover the span of this conversion. Nice job!
I put a Cummins in a H1 a few years back and it was quite the job as well. That one was more of a "play toy" and used a manual body on the 4L80, did an A/C delete and deleted all the computer.
Now I'm doing it again for another fellow that wants to retain "near stock" functions with a 4L80E and all his bells and whistles. The hiccup is I'm removing a 350 TBI, so a bit of wiring change to make it work.
:) This thread brought back many memories and makes me wonder why I'm doing it again. Gluten for punishment I guess. Ha!
BTW, if you haven't settled on a front axle, don't use the Dana 44, we used one in an offroad truck and broke so many axle shafts we swapped it out for a D-60. Solved the problem.
Looking forward to see your completion.
 

deejaaa

Diesel Beginner
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.........used a manual body on the 4L80, did an A/C delete and deleted all the computer.
Now I'm doing it again for another fellow that wants to retain "near stock" functions with a 4L80E ............
i've been running a non-computer 4L80 for a few years now but running high line pressure has started taking it's toll on the daily driver. 4th slips and must be revved to almost 3K to engage. so i bought the TCI TCM. i was told this would happen but had no other choice at the time.
 

FellowTraveler

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Thread starter #274
Whew! Took awhile but I read all 14 pages that cover the span of this conversion. Nice job!
I put a Cummins in a H1 a few years back and it was quite the job as well. That one was more of a "play toy" and used a manual body on the 4L80, did an A/C delete and deleted all the computer.
Now I'm doing it again for another fellow that wants to retain "near stock" functions with a 4L80E and all his bells and whistles. The hiccup is I'm removing a 350 TBI, so a bit of wiring change to make it work.
:) This thread brought back many memories and makes me wonder why I'm doing it again. Gluten for punishment I guess. Ha!
BTW, if you haven't settled on a front axle, don't use the Dana 44, we used one in an offroad truck and broke so many axle shafts we swapped it out for a D-60. Solved the problem.
Looking forward to see your completion.
Thanks for the kid words.
I've decided on an 85+ Ford D-60 as I've read some earlier D-60's used the same axles the D-44 did.
 

FellowTraveler

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Thread starter #277
I hate to hear that @FellowTraveler. Hope your health comes around for you soon.
Thanks!
By all accounts the doctors are all shocked I survived being septic and the almost 6 months of recovery in the hospital then another 8 months or so recovering at home, they went as far as to inform my wife & me that I was the first one to survive being so septic at Shand's in Gainsville Fla. which is right next the VA hospital and "famous as a repair shop fixing screw ups from other hospitals" that's how I came to be at Shand's after another hospital in my AO sent me home dying for no good reason.

In the end I'm a fighter and want to live so doing what I can to stay alive........and doing much better now, again thanks.
 

Nosferatu49534

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Thanks!
By all accounts the doctors are all shocked I survived being septic and the almost 6 months of recovery in the hospital then another 8 months or so recovering at home, they went as far as to inform my wife & me that I was the first one to survive being so septic at Shand's in Gainsville Fla. which is right next the VA hospital and "famous as a repair shop fixing screw ups from other hospitals" that's how I came to be at Shand's after another hospital in my AO sent me home dying for no good reason.

In the end I'm a fighter and want to live so doing what I can to stay alive........and doing much better now, again thanks.
Well keep up the fighting. :)
 
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