I replaced the Glow Plug Controller about 8 months ago with an AC Delco that I bought on ebay... The truck ran fine with no problems till last week. Glow plug light does not come on any more.
I turn the key, no glow plug light... only the momentary: water in fuel light, which is normal. The engine cranks normal, but will not start. There is no Glow Plug Inhibit Switch located on top of the engine block, so I don't think there is one.
Is this just a bad controller, or do I need to check something else?
1988 Chevy Crew Cab with the 6.2
* 95 GMC 3500 4x4 dually, VIN "F", 4.10 gears, 4L80/E trans, 400,000km, 3" downpipe, 4" exhaust, FSD mounted on heat sink in bumper, #9 resistor, 3 pillar gauge's, High Idle kit, Bosch marine injectors, Bosch Duraterm glow plugs, Wester's perf. chip, ATT, GP overide, K47 airbox, FTB, Racor, fuel pressure
* 98 Chev. 1500 4x4 VIN "S", 3.73 gears 250,000 km, (needs work)
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* 04 Yukon Denali, 6.0, 196,000 km.
* GMTD ScanTech
glow plugs good?
96 gmc k2500 4" exhaust, marine inj, #9 resistor, GL4, turbomaster, duraterms,-1.94 TDCO,FTB, remote pmd, isspro pillar gauges, kennedy opsu relay kit,141 block, 2 1000 w block heaters, 2 150w glue on oilpan heaters, 2 150w glue on transpan heaters, 97 K47 air filter , IP replaced at 229k ,gear drive set awaiting install, Parts for intercooler waiting to be installed
94 k1500 excab sb 6.5 plow truck. Fisher plow w/engine driven pump, F intake, h/m turbomaster, plowing chip by Buddy, remote PMD w#9 resistor, Duraterms
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the large wire(IIRC it's pink) should have 12V key on. the inhibit switch is on the passenger side head right at the back. I know the orange wire goes to the dash light.
does the controller make any noises?
have you confirmed 12V at the studs?
I'll see what I can dig up for ya.
There is no Inhibit Switch mounted on the top of the head, only a delete plate where it should be, unless it is mounted elsewhere..?
The connector on the controller has 4 wires to the 4 pins, BCD and E. Pin C, I thought, was for the inhibit switch, I don't know what C is connected to.
The controller clicks once when the key is turned to the on position.
The controller has about a half inch crack in the case at the battery stud.
I'll test the controller and glow plugs with an ammeter in the morning...
Just an update,
Went through the troubleshooting checklist in the Haynes manual,
fuse, glow plugs, batteries, controller all checked out with key in the off position, kept getting
some funky voltage readings with ignition on... went back through all the battery connections, found that the battery cable to the starter had melted insulation and had welded itself to the heat shield below the starter...one new cable, all systems checked out, truck runs good as new...
Thanks for all the help,
gm went el cheapo when it came to wiring. most of it is undersized. what gauge did you put in for a new cable?
the inhibit switch is down beside the injector.
Last edited by just a number; 06-23-2012 at 09:30 AM. Reason: forgot something
the winter months you'll want to be heavier than that. IIRC stock is 2 gauge. 4 will hold for the summer. how's the rest of the cables look?
which starter are you using the 27(direct drive,older design) or the 28(gear reduction)? it does make a difference of how big of cable you need.
the nice cables are alot bigger.
Do I need to look at replacing all the wiring in the truck, or just the heavy duty wires?
What do I look for on the starter..?, it's a rebuilt from Advance Auto... replaced about the same time as the cables.
if the cables are in good shape leave them till you start to have issues. you only need to change the heavy set.
the differences to look at the starter is the 27(older) housing is about 4" across and is straight with the nose cone. the 28 is small across and offset to the nose. I think its higher than the nose when mounted.
one more note on starters, make sure the front bracket is on there. they have a tendency to cause problems is you don't.
hows the winter starting on it?
a bit off topic but have you done the bolt mod yet? it's worth the time and effort.
I'd go much bigger than 4 gauge. I'm running 1/0 gauge cables for the battery crossover and both grounds, and 2/0 gauge to my starter. The engine might as well do a flip when starting, even in the dead of winter.
4 gauge will end up melting on you if you have to crank the engine for any length of time.
Find yourself a local auto-electric shop. They can make you some heavy duty battery cables of you don't have the time to make them yourself.
1996 GMC Sierra SL C2500HD regular cab 6.5L turbo diesel "F" vin Boost and EGT on A-pillar, Heath remote FSD,Heath Max-e-torq GL4, Heath Turbomaster, 3" DP,2.5" crossover, 5" stacks AMSOIL
85 K-5 Blazer, 379T Detroit Diesel , SM465/NP208 "The Rust Bucket"
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Winter starts take a while if it is left out for any length of time... if I can, on real cold days, I make sure to start it every couple hours... I keep the block heater plugged in at home, starts right up with the heater. If it is below -10, I try not to park it for any length of time with out the block heater.
I did the bolt mod when I replaced the battery cables, there was an improvement.