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Thread: Suburban Barn Door Removal?

  1. #16
    Just Another Diesel Guy Turbine Doc's Avatar
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    The bushings come prelubed with a teflon type coating, is suspect if you are not in the land of salt your problems would not be as severe, my body for the frame I'm running got jacked up in Katrina storm that dropped a tree on it, guy I bought it from said it had been "Professionally repaired" yeah right, doors pass side and low on driver side frame to body clearance, my local body guy said it was too jacked up to try to fix it, live & learn on ebay trades, rest of it was a great runner I finally got tired of getting wet in hard rain and also having AC air leak out did not seal at roof to door seals.

    So I got another rolling chasis for the body but it came from IL and had some road salt exposure, so I'm taking parts from 2 burbs to make 1 good one, pins from the doors donor were not as bad rusted, I don't think any lube would prevent it from being stuck you might try some never sieze, the head of the pin when driven home is tight fit by design into some serrations in the hinge strap so the pin dies not move but rather provide itself to being a axle/shaft for the door to swing on.
    Tim (A-ACLU #29)
    98 (S)K1500,3.73 gear,4L80,Heath 4"exh,Amsoil air & bypass oil flts,Heath fan clutch,Stans Xover,pilar mtd BST/EGT/TRN,remote 12v fan tran cool,PML trans pan, PML diff cover, Hi pops, Heath PCM,Heath remote FSD, HDP Balance Flow, Heath lift pump, SSBC front calipers, EGR rear disc conversion, Goodrich brake lines, No-Slip locker, Roadmaster suspension, Lube specialist oil lines, Putnam lock & load hitch, A-team turbo.

    98 C1500 Burb Heath reflash,exhaust,ATT, Heath cooling system, Heath FSD

  2. #17
    Addicted to boost john65td's Avatar
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    the pins seem to always sieze in the middle. i have seen people put grease fittings in the hindge. and gm has a new style pin with a grease fitting in it. i just had to replace some recently the hindges are also rediesigned to preven the pin from seizing
    NEW RIG-1993 chevy 2500 2wd 6.5 from arizona-no rust.

    GONE AND SEVERLY MISSED--1995 K2500 6-Lug Exteded Cab Short Bed 5Spd
    CHEVY MAKES IT CUMMINS SHAKES IT

    stage 3 ddp 90hp injectors, schide laser cut delivery valves, 3k spring kit, afc spring kit, #6 fuel plate, non-wastegated hx 40 hybrid turbo, Massive Southbend Clutch, 4inch exhaust
    its one pissed off cummins


    DTR Old School Smokers Club member #26

  3. #18
    Registered User Big T's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Turbine Doc View Post
    Well I realized my error after the fact posting before in the side door thread so I copied the discussions from there to here, I've got a couple of side doors to do yet as well, but here are some pictures from my forray into barn door repair. They will be out of order as I believe the software places them in order of date/time stamp photo was taken.

    Attachment 35272Attachment 35288Attachment 35287Attachment 35286Attachment 35285Attachment 35284Attachment 35283Attachment 35282Attachment 35281Attachment 35280Attachment 35279Attachment 35278Attachment 35277Attachment 35276Attachment 35275Attachment 35274Attachment 35273Attachment 35289

    Tomorrow I hope to grab some pictures of the doors going back on.
    I'm in the middle of doing this. The cut off part with the dremel is fairly easy, but drilling the top portion of the pins is a major biatch. Of course, I complicated matters by breaking the first bit off after going all the way through. Broke several more bits off in the effort. Finally it was a combination of BFH with a sharp punch knocking the bit down, more drilling, more BFH. Once I got the bit remnant out, then it was just a series of larger bits followed by BFH. With the learning curve in place, the second pin went much easier.

    Contemplating whether to take the existing door off today. For that job I only need to cut the pins with the Dremel, as the center portion of the hinge stays on the truck and the pins fall out of the center portion. Trying to get motivated to do this after spending quite a bit of time with the new door.
    1999 Chevy Suburban K2500 4x4 w/ 6.5TD 190K miles. 4L80E and 3.73 rear gears. HD lift pump, ATT, Heath HO injectors, 4" Diamond Eye Turbo Back exhaust, Warpspeed x-over, deleted soot trap , D-Tech pmd behind bumper, Heath programming for ATT, Pillar mounted gauges: EGT, Boost, Tranny Temp. Replaced IP at 130K. HID light conversion with All-4-On-Hi. Forged Alcoa wheels.

    My son's 1994 GMC Suburban K2500 4x4 w/ 6.5TD 243K miles. 4L80E and 4.10 rear gears. Buddy 4 position tune. Rebuilt Bosch injectors and new Duraterm glows. HO water pump with Dmax fan, HD fan clutch and new AC Delco 195 T-stats. Diamond Eye 3" Downpipe and 4" exhaust, deleted soot trap. Warp speed 2.5" mandrel bent crossover. D-Tech PMD mounted behind the bumper. Pillar mounted gauges: EGT, Boost, Tranny Temp. Rancho 9000 shocks. Rebuilt front end and steering box tightened. Forged Alcoa wheels.

  4. #19
    Registered User Big T's Avatar
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    Alright, got the door installed:



    Here's some shots of the old door showing the rust on the bottom:



    Aside from the rust, the old door was cleaner and did not have peeling clear coat. The opener hardware on the replacement door is real worn and I need a screwdriver to open the door at the top. It's as if the rods are stretched and there is no adjustment. So I've removed the opener hardware from the original door and that stuff is good and it's also a different style and adjustable threaded rods. I might have to widen the opening at the top to get the newer stuff in, as it's slightly different up there. The old door had a slightly different opening that was slightly wider in one spot up there. This is all covered by the plastic trim around the window.

    The job was a bitch, but I'm glad I got rid of the rusty door. The other existing door does not have rust. This was the only body rust on the vehicle. I bought it in Andover, Illinois a few miles south of Moline. Not bad for a $28 replacement door, $12 plus shipping for some pins and bushings, some dremel cutting wheels and a few broken drill bits.
    1999 Chevy Suburban K2500 4x4 w/ 6.5TD 190K miles. 4L80E and 3.73 rear gears. HD lift pump, ATT, Heath HO injectors, 4" Diamond Eye Turbo Back exhaust, Warpspeed x-over, deleted soot trap , D-Tech pmd behind bumper, Heath programming for ATT, Pillar mounted gauges: EGT, Boost, Tranny Temp. Replaced IP at 130K. HID light conversion with All-4-On-Hi. Forged Alcoa wheels.

    My son's 1994 GMC Suburban K2500 4x4 w/ 6.5TD 243K miles. 4L80E and 4.10 rear gears. Buddy 4 position tune. Rebuilt Bosch injectors and new Duraterm glows. HO water pump with Dmax fan, HD fan clutch and new AC Delco 195 T-stats. Diamond Eye 3" Downpipe and 4" exhaust, deleted soot trap. Warp speed 2.5" mandrel bent crossover. D-Tech PMD mounted behind the bumper. Pillar mounted gauges: EGT, Boost, Tranny Temp. Rancho 9000 shocks. Rebuilt front end and steering box tightened. Forged Alcoa wheels.

  5. #20
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    Thanks for taking the time to post all these pics, very helpful. Thinking of the same project myself. Saw a set of barn doors on Craigslist (mine are rusting out bad on the bottoms) and wondered how difficult to not only get mine off, but the ones from the vehicle getting scrapped as well.

  6. #21
    Registered User Big T's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ABurbAgain View Post
    Thanks for taking the time to post all these pics, very helpful. Thinking of the same project myself. Saw a set of barn doors on Craigslist (mine are rusting out bad on the bottoms) and wondered how difficult to not only get mine off, but the ones from the vehicle getting scrapped as well.
    Easy to get them off: your only option is to cut the hinge as they're welded to the body (despite the two bolts holding them). I followed the Dremel cut and pin drill out instructions here. I broke several bits doing the drilling. This was the hard part of the job.
    1999 Chevy Suburban K2500 4x4 w/ 6.5TD 190K miles. 4L80E and 3.73 rear gears. HD lift pump, ATT, Heath HO injectors, 4" Diamond Eye Turbo Back exhaust, Warpspeed x-over, deleted soot trap , D-Tech pmd behind bumper, Heath programming for ATT, Pillar mounted gauges: EGT, Boost, Tranny Temp. Replaced IP at 130K. HID light conversion with All-4-On-Hi. Forged Alcoa wheels.

    My son's 1994 GMC Suburban K2500 4x4 w/ 6.5TD 243K miles. 4L80E and 4.10 rear gears. Buddy 4 position tune. Rebuilt Bosch injectors and new Duraterm glows. HO water pump with Dmax fan, HD fan clutch and new AC Delco 195 T-stats. Diamond Eye 3" Downpipe and 4" exhaust, deleted soot trap. Warp speed 2.5" mandrel bent crossover. D-Tech PMD mounted behind the bumper. Pillar mounted gauges: EGT, Boost, Tranny Temp. Rancho 9000 shocks. Rebuilt front end and steering box tightened. Forged Alcoa wheels.

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big T View Post
    Easy to get them off: your only option is to cut the hinge as they're welded to the body (despite the two bolts holding them). I followed the Dremel cut and pin drill out instructions here. I broke several bits doing the drilling. This was the hard part of the job.
    I don't have a Dremel tool, but the bushings (at least the top flanges) on my current door hinges are pretty much wasted away and leaving a gap that a sawzall blade should slip into. I've got an angle grinder and everything else I should need. If I can buy the doors, that'll give me an excuse for a new set of drill bits as well. Got about 4 misc sets, but they are all getting pretty well aged and dull. I'll check into the source mentioned earlier for the new pins too. Glad I found this forum.

  8. #23
    Registered User Big T's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ABurbAgain View Post
    I don't have a Dremel tool, but the bushings (at least the top flanges) on my current door hinges are pretty much wasted away and leaving a gap that a sawzall blade should slip into. I've got an angle grinder and everything else I should need. If I can buy the doors, that'll give me an excuse for a new set of drill bits as well. Got about 4 misc sets, but they are all getting pretty well aged and dull. I'll check into the source mentioned earlier for the new pins too. Glad I found this forum.
    Got two white barn doors from a Suburban that's lived in California its entire life. $25 for each, but boxing and shipping them to Ohio would be a killer.
    1999 Chevy Suburban K2500 4x4 w/ 6.5TD 190K miles. 4L80E and 3.73 rear gears. HD lift pump, ATT, Heath HO injectors, 4" Diamond Eye Turbo Back exhaust, Warpspeed x-over, deleted soot trap , D-Tech pmd behind bumper, Heath programming for ATT, Pillar mounted gauges: EGT, Boost, Tranny Temp. Replaced IP at 130K. HID light conversion with All-4-On-Hi. Forged Alcoa wheels.

    My son's 1994 GMC Suburban K2500 4x4 w/ 6.5TD 243K miles. 4L80E and 4.10 rear gears. Buddy 4 position tune. Rebuilt Bosch injectors and new Duraterm glows. HO water pump with Dmax fan, HD fan clutch and new AC Delco 195 T-stats. Diamond Eye 3" Downpipe and 4" exhaust, deleted soot trap. Warp speed 2.5" mandrel bent crossover. D-Tech PMD mounted behind the bumper. Pillar mounted gauges: EGT, Boost, Tranny Temp. Rancho 9000 shocks. Rebuilt front end and steering box tightened. Forged Alcoa wheels.

  9. #24
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    Just picked up a pair of doors from the local you-pull. Doors were priced right at $40 each. Used the sawsall for junk yard removal, but removal of the pins has been giving me a fit. Guess I'll continue trying to drill them out.

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    Hi Turbine Doc, I am about to try to remove the hinge pins. Looks like you had to apply heat to the hinge from the metal discoloration. Someone suggested to me to drilling straight down through the pin with successively larger drill bits, so the material collapses towards center and pops out with a few hammer whacks...is that fantasy? Any other suggestions? Thanks.

  11. #26
    Registered User Big T's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hockeydude View Post
    Hi Turbine Doc, I am about to try to remove the hinge pins. Looks like you had to apply heat to the hinge from the metal discoloration. Someone suggested to me to drilling straight down through the pin with successively larger drill bits, so the material collapses towards center and pops out with a few hammer whacks...is that fantasy? Any other suggestions? Thanks.
    This^^^^^is how you do it. The pins are tough to drill and I broke several bits. Good luck.
    1999 Chevy Suburban K2500 4x4 w/ 6.5TD 190K miles. 4L80E and 3.73 rear gears. HD lift pump, ATT, Heath HO injectors, 4" Diamond Eye Turbo Back exhaust, Warpspeed x-over, deleted soot trap , D-Tech pmd behind bumper, Heath programming for ATT, Pillar mounted gauges: EGT, Boost, Tranny Temp. Replaced IP at 130K. HID light conversion with All-4-On-Hi. Forged Alcoa wheels.

    My son's 1994 GMC Suburban K2500 4x4 w/ 6.5TD 243K miles. 4L80E and 4.10 rear gears. Buddy 4 position tune. Rebuilt Bosch injectors and new Duraterm glows. HO water pump with Dmax fan, HD fan clutch and new AC Delco 195 T-stats. Diamond Eye 3" Downpipe and 4" exhaust, deleted soot trap. Warp speed 2.5" mandrel bent crossover. D-Tech PMD mounted behind the bumper. Pillar mounted gauges: EGT, Boost, Tranny Temp. Rancho 9000 shocks. Rebuilt front end and steering box tightened. Forged Alcoa wheels.

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