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Thread: Heater Hose Quick Connect Coupler Leaking..... Again.

  1. #1
    Rust.....What rust.... DieselSlug's Avatar
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    Default Heater Hose Quick Connect Coupler Leaking..... Again.

    Was wondering if there were more permanent fixes to the plastic "clip in" heater hose connection? It started leaking about 2 years ago. I bought the replacement kit from the Dealer, it came with a new nipple for the stat housing and a new plastic clip. It has always seeped a tiny bit, but now its a full bore drip requiring coolant top offs every other week. I really want to eliminate this connection, but i had the new nipple put in by a machine shop as i snapped the old one off in the t-stat, so it has been re-tapped. Basically not sure if i can remove the nipple from the stat housing anymore. Any insight would be great thanks! I had a video of it and the dripping, but the file somehow became corrupt.
    Mike (Yup another one)....
    1994 Silverado K2500 6.5L TD, R/C L/B VIN. F
    Not your run of the mill 6.5...
    261,000 Miles Body, Engine Rebuild @ 202,000 Miles. GU6 Full-Floating Rear (3.42 Gears) Rebuilt 4L80E @ 241,000 Miles. Complete Hydraulic Fisher Minute Mount Plow 7 1/2 Foot. Remote Mount PMD (Behind Bumper), 195 Degree AC-Delco stat, #7 Resistor, Kennedy HD Fan Clutch, Dmax Fan, Cummins Carter Lift pump, Rebuilt I/P 8 Years Ago, Snorkle Mod, K47 Box, Marine Injectors, Bosch Duraterms, 4'' Warpspeed Exhaust, 2.5'' Cross-Over, ARP Headstuds, H/V Oil Pump, H/O Water Pump, 4-Stage Budde Chip, Holset WH1C Turbo, P/T Wiring Turbo Master, Removed Vac. Pump. Heath Optix Boost Gauge, Optix Pyro Gauge & A Lot-O-Rust.
    2011 F150 FX4
    2.5'' Lift, Cooper Discoverer S/T Maxx Tires
    TOY: 1989 5.8 LX Fox Mustang

  2. #2
    Registered User deejaaa's Avatar
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    i removed the coupler, replaced with a pipe nipple the same size as the aluminum piece and put in a rubber hose with clamps. easier to remove and no leaks. mine was corroded beyond repair.
    Prediction is very difficult, especially about the future. Niels Bohr Danish physicist (1885 - 1962)
    93 1 ton 4 door, 2WD, 6.5, 4L80E, w/ Gear Vendors OD unit, 1800 rpm at 67 mph, TCC manual switch, straight pipe, GP manual mod, fuel pressure/boost gauge, spin-on 10 micron fuel filter pre-FFM. Installed ATT on 6-12-2011. Brought home 9/4/08, has '99 engine, daily driver,avg 600 miles/week. Now with a manual controller for the 4L80 transmission (Jakes PCS/EPC eliminator plug and controller).
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  3. #3
    Author of The DB2 Conversion Guide bobbiemartin's Avatar
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    Lots of info on this if you do a search. I used an AN fitting, but a nipple and hose clamp work well. The trick is getting the old fitting out of the crossover without breaking the crossover. Some come right out, others are not so easy.



    Here is my heater hose with brass AN fitting
    Bobbie Martin
    1995 Chevrolet Suburban 1500 6.5 TD 2WD- DB2 mechanical fuel injection
    GEP Optimizer 6.53 Detroit Diesel Power
    6.53L, GEP Block & Heads, .020 over, ARP studs, DB2 Inj. pump, GM8 Turbo w/TurboMaster
    K47 Airbox with K&N filter, 3" mandrel bent exhaust, 2¼" Crossover
    HO Water Pump, Hayden "Truck Fan" Clutch, 21" 9 blade Duramax Fan

    No PMD, APP, optical sensor or vacuum pump!
    Author of The DB2 Conversion Guide

  4. #4

    Default

    I'm doing mine now. I'm using a 5/8 nipple x 1/2 pipe thread. Most of your auto parts stores carry them. When I went to take to old one out it snapped off clean with the housing, a chisel and a couple of hours later I got what was left out of the housing but I had figured that would happen.
    1996 K2500 6.5 TD 5 speed, Heath ECM and Turbo Master, 4" SSD exhaust, PMD relocation, AFE CAI. South Bend clutch.

  5. #5
    Rust.....What rust.... DieselSlug's Avatar
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    Thanks guys, i tried to search but for some reason my work internet wont let the results come up? I am wondering if the nipple is going to come out without a fight?? Its only been in there for 2 years or so, but im worried about breaking it again because im not 100% sure on what the machinist did to re-thread the pieces back together. I might try to get the nipple off of an old stat cross over i have to take to the store and match up a nipple. Will post some pics in a few days.
    Mike (Yup another one)....
    1994 Silverado K2500 6.5L TD, R/C L/B VIN. F
    Not your run of the mill 6.5...
    261,000 Miles Body, Engine Rebuild @ 202,000 Miles. GU6 Full-Floating Rear (3.42 Gears) Rebuilt 4L80E @ 241,000 Miles. Complete Hydraulic Fisher Minute Mount Plow 7 1/2 Foot. Remote Mount PMD (Behind Bumper), 195 Degree AC-Delco stat, #7 Resistor, Kennedy HD Fan Clutch, Dmax Fan, Cummins Carter Lift pump, Rebuilt I/P 8 Years Ago, Snorkle Mod, K47 Box, Marine Injectors, Bosch Duraterms, 4'' Warpspeed Exhaust, 2.5'' Cross-Over, ARP Headstuds, H/V Oil Pump, H/O Water Pump, 4-Stage Budde Chip, Holset WH1C Turbo, P/T Wiring Turbo Master, Removed Vac. Pump. Heath Optix Boost Gauge, Optix Pyro Gauge & A Lot-O-Rust.
    2011 F150 FX4
    2.5'' Lift, Cooper Discoverer S/T Maxx Tires
    TOY: 1989 5.8 LX Fox Mustang

  6. #6
    6.5 nut job/addict
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    NAPA 660-1732 and 3 hose clamps with a short piece of heater hose. Never a problem again
    Barry



    I am not on the Heath Bandwagon

  7. #7
    Author of The DB2 Conversion Guide bobbiemartin's Avatar
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    Forgot to mention one thing. Some (all?) of the factory snap in outlets have a restriction. You might want to check yours.



    I made up a brass piece and pressed it in my fitting to match the factory fitting.
    Bobbie Martin
    1995 Chevrolet Suburban 1500 6.5 TD 2WD- DB2 mechanical fuel injection
    GEP Optimizer 6.53 Detroit Diesel Power
    6.53L, GEP Block & Heads, .020 over, ARP studs, DB2 Inj. pump, GM8 Turbo w/TurboMaster
    K47 Airbox with K&N filter, 3" mandrel bent exhaust, 2¼" Crossover
    HO Water Pump, Hayden "Truck Fan" Clutch, 21" 9 blade Duramax Fan

    No PMD, APP, optical sensor or vacuum pump!
    Author of The DB2 Conversion Guide

  8. #8
    6.5 nut job/addict
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    The NAPA nipple is restricted. It is the same heater hose nipple that the 6.2s usedIMG_0282_262.JPGIMG_0267_247.JPG
    Barry



    I am not on the Heath Bandwagon

  9. #9
    6.5 Diesel NUTCASE Ratman's Avatar
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    Michael, -I thought I remembered sending you a brass swiveling NPT x hose barb? Do you still have it? If you lost it I can probably send you another, -it was made by Parker, -and the swivel is sealed with an o-ring, -good stuff.

    As far as removing stuff like that, -particularly in aluminum, heat on the aluminum is your friend. I used a product called Aerokroil (orange can) in combination with a mapp gas torch and a big honkin' easy-out, -screwed right out.

    Let me know on the fitting, if you need another one, I will look tomorrow to see if I have an extra. If I do, I can get it headin' your way.
    Rich

    94 K2500, 6.5, NV-4500, 4.10's, GM4 closed gate,DB2 with .310", base timing @ 5°, 599 block .020" over, decked .010", ARP studs, 18:1 Mahle pistons, SCAT crank, diamond cups, HV oil pump, dual-stat/130GPM, C2 boost/pyro, 3"x4" EXH, AC 60G's,
    NO MORE DS4, NO MORE PMD'S! I RELOCATED MY PMD TO THE TRASHCAN!

    1991 Jeep Cherokee XJ, AMC 4.0L/AW4, 44 rear, 6" lift, 32's, THEFERMANATOR ENGINE WORKS IAT and CPS timing mod.

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    EVIL GENIUS Michaeljp86's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by deejaaa View Post
    i removed the coupler, replaced with a pipe nipple the same size as the aluminum piece and put in a rubber hose with clamps. easier to remove and no leaks. mine was corroded beyond repair.
    When I had to do head gaskets on my jimmy that thing wasnt going to come apart, I destroyed it and replaced it like you did.
    1992 GMC F 6.5L TD 2wd 4L80E 253,000 miles, manual torque converter lock up switch, rear air bags, 2.5" crossover, 3" down pipe, 4" straight piped, remove key while running mod.

    1979 IH 484 diesel Rebuilt engine in 2007, repainted in 2008

    1992 GMC jimmy 4.3L V6 4x4 4L60E, about 200,000 miles AMSOIL

    1992 Chevy 2500 2wd 6.5L TD 4L80E 230,000 miles cranked up IP, home made turbomaster with 15psi boost.

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  11. #11
    Rust.....What rust.... DieselSlug's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bk95td View Post
    The NAPA nipple is restricted. It is the same heater hose nipple that the 6.2s usedIMG_0282_262.JPGIMG_0267_247.JPG
    That looks like a good fix right there!!!
    Mike (Yup another one)....
    1994 Silverado K2500 6.5L TD, R/C L/B VIN. F
    Not your run of the mill 6.5...
    261,000 Miles Body, Engine Rebuild @ 202,000 Miles. GU6 Full-Floating Rear (3.42 Gears) Rebuilt 4L80E @ 241,000 Miles. Complete Hydraulic Fisher Minute Mount Plow 7 1/2 Foot. Remote Mount PMD (Behind Bumper), 195 Degree AC-Delco stat, #7 Resistor, Kennedy HD Fan Clutch, Dmax Fan, Cummins Carter Lift pump, Rebuilt I/P 8 Years Ago, Snorkle Mod, K47 Box, Marine Injectors, Bosch Duraterms, 4'' Warpspeed Exhaust, 2.5'' Cross-Over, ARP Headstuds, H/V Oil Pump, H/O Water Pump, 4-Stage Budde Chip, Holset WH1C Turbo, P/T Wiring Turbo Master, Removed Vac. Pump. Heath Optix Boost Gauge, Optix Pyro Gauge & A Lot-O-Rust.
    2011 F150 FX4
    2.5'' Lift, Cooper Discoverer S/T Maxx Tires
    TOY: 1989 5.8 LX Fox Mustang

  12. #12
    Rust.....What rust.... DieselSlug's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ratman View Post
    Michael, -I thought I remembered sending you a brass swiveling NPT x hose barb? Do you still have it? If you lost it I can probably send you another, -it was made by Parker, -and the swivel is sealed with an o-ring, -good stuff.

    As far as removing stuff like that, -particularly in aluminum, heat on the aluminum is your friend. I used a product called Aerokroil (orange can) in combination with a mapp gas torch and a big honkin' easy-out, -screwed right out.

    Let me know on the fitting, if you need another one, I will look tomorrow to see if I have an extra. If I do, I can get it headin' your way.
    Hey Rich!
    Drawing a complete blank about getting the fitting from yah. I think you only sent me pistons to replace the burnt one? Maybe not? Old age setting in. LOL. Any who that would be awesome if you could send one! If not i can just go get the NAPA one that BK suggested.
    Mike (Yup another one)....
    1994 Silverado K2500 6.5L TD, R/C L/B VIN. F
    Not your run of the mill 6.5...
    261,000 Miles Body, Engine Rebuild @ 202,000 Miles. GU6 Full-Floating Rear (3.42 Gears) Rebuilt 4L80E @ 241,000 Miles. Complete Hydraulic Fisher Minute Mount Plow 7 1/2 Foot. Remote Mount PMD (Behind Bumper), 195 Degree AC-Delco stat, #7 Resistor, Kennedy HD Fan Clutch, Dmax Fan, Cummins Carter Lift pump, Rebuilt I/P 8 Years Ago, Snorkle Mod, K47 Box, Marine Injectors, Bosch Duraterms, 4'' Warpspeed Exhaust, 2.5'' Cross-Over, ARP Headstuds, H/V Oil Pump, H/O Water Pump, 4-Stage Budde Chip, Holset WH1C Turbo, P/T Wiring Turbo Master, Removed Vac. Pump. Heath Optix Boost Gauge, Optix Pyro Gauge & A Lot-O-Rust.
    2011 F150 FX4
    2.5'' Lift, Cooper Discoverer S/T Maxx Tires
    TOY: 1989 5.8 LX Fox Mustang

  13. #13
    Recruit JMJNet's Avatar
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    The key when you try to take it out is to remove that small tubing out from the quick connect first.
    Then you can use a socket and move it slowly without sudden movement.

    NEVER USE A BOX WRENCH WHILE BOTH ENDS ARE CONNECTED!!!

    Here is a thread at DP that cover the replacement of the coolant quick connect for your reference:
    http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=138989

    By the way, mine did the same thing: leaks after 2 years on the plastic clip quick connect.
    It was the NAPA, better steel quality but the plastic part is the problem.

    In the thread above, there are GM part no for the part with the correct restrictor size.
    Last edited by JMJNet; 08-17-2011 at 11:23 AM.
    #####---------######-------#####
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  14. #14
    Rust.....What rust.... DieselSlug's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMJNet View Post
    The key when you try to take it out is to remove that small tubing out from the quick connect first.
    Then you can use a socket and move it slowly without sudden movement.

    NEVER USE A BOX WRENCH WHILE BOTH ENDS ARE CONNECTED!!!

    Here is a thread at DP that cover the replacement of the coolant quick connect for your reference:
    http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=138989

    By the way, mine did the same thing: leaks after 2 years on the plastic clip quick connect.

    Good suggestion on the socket! Hopefully i have one the correct size that big.
    Mike (Yup another one)....
    1994 Silverado K2500 6.5L TD, R/C L/B VIN. F
    Not your run of the mill 6.5...
    261,000 Miles Body, Engine Rebuild @ 202,000 Miles. GU6 Full-Floating Rear (3.42 Gears) Rebuilt 4L80E @ 241,000 Miles. Complete Hydraulic Fisher Minute Mount Plow 7 1/2 Foot. Remote Mount PMD (Behind Bumper), 195 Degree AC-Delco stat, #7 Resistor, Kennedy HD Fan Clutch, Dmax Fan, Cummins Carter Lift pump, Rebuilt I/P 8 Years Ago, Snorkle Mod, K47 Box, Marine Injectors, Bosch Duraterms, 4'' Warpspeed Exhaust, 2.5'' Cross-Over, ARP Headstuds, H/V Oil Pump, H/O Water Pump, 4-Stage Budde Chip, Holset WH1C Turbo, P/T Wiring Turbo Master, Removed Vac. Pump. Heath Optix Boost Gauge, Optix Pyro Gauge & A Lot-O-Rust.
    2011 F150 FX4
    2.5'' Lift, Cooper Discoverer S/T Maxx Tires
    TOY: 1989 5.8 LX Fox Mustang

  15. #15
    Wild Blonde from Cloud Mt Missy Good Wench's Avatar
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    Using the Barbed fittings with clamps is certainly a good fix, however I have used the Steel quick couplers from NAPA (730-4943) and have had great service from them.

    The factory 'pot metal" parts are a disaster waiting to happen.

    Just be sure that the aluminum line that plugs into the coupler is clean and the seal area that plugs into the coupler is clean and free of any corrosion.

    If you decide to use a barbed fitting, the restrictor size is a 5/16 diameter hole.

    Somewhere I wrote a post on the secrets of removing a broken fitting from the water crossover.



    Good luck

    Missy
    1995 GMC 3500 4x4 Crewcab DaHooooley
    6.5 Turbo diesel
    Banks exhaust
    Heath Turbo master and Heath Chip
    Custom Interior and paint by ??????????

    89 K5 Blazer 4x4 5.7 Gasser
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