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Thread: Suggestions For Block Heater Cord Quick Connect?

  1. #1
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    Default Suggestions For Block Heater Cord Quick Connect?

    I suspected my block heater wasn't working - couldn't hear it when I plugged in. I put my meter on the the two prongs (not the ground prong) at the cord end (opposite of heater) and got 8.5K. Hmmm I thought. I expected to see infinity. However, I'll admit that I don't know what it should Ohm at. Anyone know?

    Still confused by this reading, and even though there's snow on the ground, I figured I should go under and check the connection at the actual heater. Guess what? The cord was sheared off at right at the plug end (the end that connects to the heater) and just hanging loose!!!! What the heck?!?! This cord is only about 4 years old. I wiggled the plug-end out and looked at it - the orange rubber was disintegrating/crumbling in my fingers!

    Could the plug end have been sheared by improper engine replacement? Or, could this crumbling be considered normal? Any thoughts on that?

    OK, to my original question....

    I have a permanently installed (in bumper) plug-in for the heater. I'd like to avoid taking that apart - especially if these cords naturally disintegrate and I'll have to replace it again.

    So, I'm thinking of using some quick-connects somewhere in the middle of the cord in a convenient location. Should I just use bullet-type connectors and shrink? Or, is this there something better? I believe the heater is about 600w - maybe 800w? If so, would 14 gauge connectors be fine (if my googling ability is up to parr, anyways)???
    1998 K2500 Suburban 6.5L TD 3.73 rear, Ron Schoolcraft 18:1, Timing gears, Splayed main caps, Kennedy ECM, 4" Exhuast/No Cat, K&N Filter, Boost/Tranny Temp/EGT(Pre Turbo), Ceramic-coated Manifolds, 195 Stat's, 265/75's (VSSB Adjusted) 7,000lbs (on a scale) Remote Mount Oil Filter, Remote Oil Pressure Sensor, High Idle Switch

  2. #2
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    I've never seen a end that crumbled. I've seen them get mushy from oil leaking on them though. The napa heaters have heat reflective wrap on the cord but not the connecter to the heater. Only problem i've had with the cord is ME forgetting to unplug it before I drive away. Bullet with heat shrink would work for the splice. Just cut heat shrink to replace cord end next time ,if there is one.
    Barry



    I am not on the Heath Bandwagon

  3. #3
    Registered User ak diesel driver's Avatar
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    I put a 2gang electrical box with plugins on my drivers side fender and then ran a cord from it out the front. That way I can just unplug if needed without havinf to reroute cord thru grill. I've never had a cord crumble either but have been known to forget to unplug once in a while. I've also seen rigs dragging cords down the road too.
    96 gmc k2500 4" exhaust, marine inj, #9 resistor, GL4, turbomaster, duraterms,-1.94 TDCO,FTB, remote pmd, isspro pillar gauges, lift pump relay added ,141 block, 2 1000 w block heaters, 2 150w glue on oilpan heaters, 2 150w glue on transpan heaters, 97 K47 air filter , IP replaced at 229k ,gear drive set awaiting install, Parts for intercooler waiting to be installed

    94 k1500 excab sb 6.5 plow truck. Fisher plow w/engine driven pump, F intake, h/m turbomaster, plowing chip by Buddy, remote PMD w#9 resistor, Duraterms

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    Registered User NVW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ak diesel driver View Post
    I put a 2gang electrical box with plugins on my drivers side fender and then ran a cord from it out the front. That way I can just unplug if needed without havinf to reroute cord thru grill. I've never had a cord crumble either but have been known to forget to unplug once in a while. I've also seen rigs dragging cords down the road too.
    My wife has been known to do this. After saying this it will be my turn
    Leo
    * 95 GMC 3500 4x4 dually, VIN "F", 4.10 gears, 4L80/E trans, 405,000km, 3" downpipe, 4" exhaust, FSD mounted on heat sink in bumper, #9 resistor, 3 pillar gauge's, High Idle kit, Bosch marine injectors, Bosch Duraterm glow plugs, Leroy's ATT chip, ATT, GP overide, K47 airbox, FTB, Racor fuel filter, fuel pressure gauge
    * 98 Chev. 1500 4x4 VIN "S", 3.73 gears 250,000 km, (needs work)
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    Quote Originally Posted by NVW View Post
    After saying this it will be my turn
    Oh please, please tell me when you're going to do it... driving behind somebody and trying to drive on that dragging extension cord is more fun than playing Donkey Kong for beers...

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    Yeah, weirdest thing. I thought the heater end of the cord was actually supposed to be silicone.

    Oh well. At least by using the bullets it'll save me the time from replacing the permanent connection in the bumper (I have it all siliconed-up to keep moisture out). Of course, everyone knows, that as soon as I do this, the new cord will last 20 years!
    1998 K2500 Suburban 6.5L TD 3.73 rear, Ron Schoolcraft 18:1, Timing gears, Splayed main caps, Kennedy ECM, 4" Exhuast/No Cat, K&N Filter, Boost/Tranny Temp/EGT(Pre Turbo), Ceramic-coated Manifolds, 195 Stat's, 265/75's (VSSB Adjusted) 7,000lbs (on a scale) Remote Mount Oil Filter, Remote Oil Pressure Sensor, High Idle Switch

  7. #7
    Registered User NVW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JiFaire View Post
    Oh please, please tell me when you're going to do it... driving behind somebody and trying to drive on that dragging extension cord is more fun than playing Donkey Kong for beers...

    That's just nasty
    Leo
    * 95 GMC 3500 4x4 dually, VIN "F", 4.10 gears, 4L80/E trans, 405,000km, 3" downpipe, 4" exhaust, FSD mounted on heat sink in bumper, #9 resistor, 3 pillar gauge's, High Idle kit, Bosch marine injectors, Bosch Duraterm glow plugs, Leroy's ATT chip, ATT, GP overide, K47 airbox, FTB, Racor fuel filter, fuel pressure gauge
    * 98 Chev. 1500 4x4 VIN "S", 3.73 gears 250,000 km, (needs work)
    * 97 GMC C3500 VIN "F", 4.10 gears, 5 spd manual, 324,000 k (parts)
    * 04 Yukon Denali, 6.0, 196,000 km.
    * GMTD ScanTech
    * CarCode

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by NVW View Post
    That's just nasty
    But awful darn funny! 'Course, that's partly because I can see myself doing that, too! ):h
    1998 K2500 Suburban 6.5L TD 3.73 rear, Ron Schoolcraft 18:1, Timing gears, Splayed main caps, Kennedy ECM, 4" Exhuast/No Cat, K&N Filter, Boost/Tranny Temp/EGT(Pre Turbo), Ceramic-coated Manifolds, 195 Stat's, 265/75's (VSSB Adjusted) 7,000lbs (on a scale) Remote Mount Oil Filter, Remote Oil Pressure Sensor, High Idle Switch

  9. #9

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    I just left the stock block heater plug on the cord and used the end of an old extension cord(maybe 3 to 4 inches from the end of the cord) and put that into the bumper mounted Marinco plug. Works fine and no wire cutting/splicing required.
    Last edited by iamdave0887; 12-21-2009 at 08:58 PM.

    1996 GMC Sierra SL C2500HD regular cab 6.5L turbo diesel "F" vin Boost and EGT on A-pillar, Heath remote FSD,Heath Max-e-torq GL4, Heath Turbomaster, 3" DP,2.5" crossover, 5" stacks AMSOIL
    85 K-5 Blazer, 379T Detroit Diesel , SM465/NP208 "The Rust Bucket"

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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by iamdave0887 View Post
    I just left the stock block heater plug on the cord and used the end of an old extension cord(maybe 3 to 4 inches from the end of the cord) and put that into the bumper mounted Marinco plug. Works fine and no wire cutting/splicing required.
    I have a Marinco, as well. But I have the one that is hard-wired, as opposed to "open" like I think you're describing. I thought of using the one you have, but the main motivating factor for me was to get away from having the cord end constantly moved around. Granted, keeping it inside that box, like you have, is certainly a whole lot better than leaving the cord hanging.

    The wiring is easy enough to re-do - it's all the silicone that I packed into the back-side of the Marinco that I want to avoid... Dig it out, then re-pack and wait for it to dry.
    1998 K2500 Suburban 6.5L TD 3.73 rear, Ron Schoolcraft 18:1, Timing gears, Splayed main caps, Kennedy ECM, 4" Exhuast/No Cat, K&N Filter, Boost/Tranny Temp/EGT(Pre Turbo), Ceramic-coated Manifolds, 195 Stat's, 265/75's (VSSB Adjusted) 7,000lbs (on a scale) Remote Mount Oil Filter, Remote Oil Pressure Sensor, High Idle Switch

  11. #11

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    Here's the Marinco plug that i have.



    Sorry for the oversized photo, it's the only one i could find. On the backside of that plug, which is mounted in my bumper) i put a short(3-4 inches) of an old orange outdoor power cord rated for 15 amps. That end had the proper plug for the block heater to plug into. It's been that way for over 2 years now, and i've had no problems.

    Also the orange power cord with a little electrical tape around it fits nice and tight in the back of the Marinco plug. No silicone required.

    I just tucked the block heater/extension cord connection up into the front of the frame/bumper bracket on the driver's side. It's been sitting there for over 20,000 miles and hasn't moved.

    1996 GMC Sierra SL C2500HD regular cab 6.5L turbo diesel "F" vin Boost and EGT on A-pillar, Heath remote FSD,Heath Max-e-torq GL4, Heath Turbomaster, 3" DP,2.5" crossover, 5" stacks AMSOIL
    85 K-5 Blazer, 379T Detroit Diesel , SM465/NP208 "The Rust Bucket"

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  12. #12
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    OK, gotcha. That's the same one I have. Now I understand what you were saying about the short, orange extension cord. That's a good idea! Good idea with wrapping the cord with electrical tape, too. Just curious, though, have you ever pulled the rubber boot off and looked inside? I'm just wondering if any "crap" does make it's way in there. I'll be adding an oil pan heater soon - I may incorporate your idea.
    1998 K2500 Suburban 6.5L TD 3.73 rear, Ron Schoolcraft 18:1, Timing gears, Splayed main caps, Kennedy ECM, 4" Exhuast/No Cat, K&N Filter, Boost/Tranny Temp/EGT(Pre Turbo), Ceramic-coated Manifolds, 195 Stat's, 265/75's (VSSB Adjusted) 7,000lbs (on a scale) Remote Mount Oil Filter, Remote Oil Pressure Sensor, High Idle Switch

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by DennisG01 View Post
    OK, gotcha. That's the same one I have. Now I understand what you were saying about the short, orange extension cord. That's a good idea! Good idea with wrapping the cord with electrical tape, too. Just curious, though, have you ever pulled the rubber boot off and looked inside? I'm just wondering if any "crap" does make it's way in there. I'll be adding an oil pan heater soon - I may incorporate your idea.
    I haven't pulled the boot off since installing it. I'll check it one of these days and post pictures but the pickup is buried in a foot of snow with drifts from the wind.

    I'd like to get one of the Kussmaul Auto-Eject plugs for the blazer and mount it somewhere. That'll prevent me from ripping the cord in half...again.

    1996 GMC Sierra SL C2500HD regular cab 6.5L turbo diesel "F" vin Boost and EGT on A-pillar, Heath remote FSD,Heath Max-e-torq GL4, Heath Turbomaster, 3" DP,2.5" crossover, 5" stacks AMSOIL
    85 K-5 Blazer, 379T Detroit Diesel , SM465/NP208 "The Rust Bucket"

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    How can liberals stand up to terrorists, when they can't even stand up to fox news?

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  14. #14
    Registered User ak diesel driver's Avatar
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    Kussmaul Auto-Eject plugs what are these? Never heard of them.
    96 gmc k2500 4" exhaust, marine inj, #9 resistor, GL4, turbomaster, duraterms,-1.94 TDCO,FTB, remote pmd, isspro pillar gauges, lift pump relay added ,141 block, 2 1000 w block heaters, 2 150w glue on oilpan heaters, 2 150w glue on transpan heaters, 97 K47 air filter , IP replaced at 229k ,gear drive set awaiting install, Parts for intercooler waiting to be installed

    94 k1500 excab sb 6.5 plow truck. Fisher plow w/engine driven pump, F intake, h/m turbomaster, plowing chip by Buddy, remote PMD w#9 resistor, Duraterms

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    94 k2500 excab lb 6.5 parts truck
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    70 Ford reg cab lb 428 cj richmond 5spd lockers 35s
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    62 Tempest convertible way on the back burner project
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  15. #15
    Next project - fuel mizer Suburban NoDak's Avatar
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    First off, having those random pictures at the top of the page can be addicting. I was having similar thoughts as you all are chatting about. Then about two weeks ago, this photo of member "chevylover" with the Marinco plug popped up.

    http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/alb...pictureid=1545

    I really liked that idea but the Germany plugs were different. But after surfing the Marinco site, being a marine supplier form WI?, they cover the globe I'm sure.

    Only thing that could one up this idea, is having the self recoiling cord tucked away underhood/behind grill/somewhere. Because you still have to pull out your own cord to tie up a Marinco plug to the home post, local saloon or whereever you might hold up?
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