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Yet Another 599 Build Thread

redshift96

Diesel Knucklehead
Messages
163
Reaction score
2
Location
Beautiful Soggy California
A few years ago, I bought very cool 1990 4x4 3/4t diesel Sub. It had been a news van, had the side compartment for gennie or inverter/batteries, a full aluminum roof rack with diamond plate platform, and most of the wiring still in place from the removal of the microwave tower. The rack not only had weatherproof 110v outlets on three sides, but weatherproof XLR sockets and a big recess for what was probably a "shorepower" type input. Perfect, as I do a lot of location sound work in remote areas. I was psyched.

Sub RF.jpg PANA0029.jpg


Since the FCC & DMV documents still in the glovebox showed it had been based in the Sierra foothills, while the TV station itself was based in San Francisco, it seemed likely that it's mission had been to run the weather guy up to Blue Canyon everytime a storm blew through, so he could stand out in the snow in his North Face parka shivering for a few minutes in front of the camera, then jump back in and go home. Probably treated reasonably gently, and maintained fairly well by the station motor pool. The A/V electrical mods looked like they'd been done fairly well, and the price was right... $1500, talked down to $1200 due to the TH400 feeling a little loose.

The second owner had used it as a painting contractor's vehicle. Lots of latex all over the gold interior. Mostly in the back, and all stuff that was replaceable, so I set out to whip it into shape.

Took it to a mechanic recommended by a friend (ungodly terrible mistake), who reported it had poor compression, needed an injection pump, the trans was in bad shape, etc.

$10,000, two rebuilt motors (first one spun a rod bearing), three trans rebuilds (first two burned themselves up do to the TPS being set incorrectly according to the trans shop), one transfer case, a new set of tires, some new glass, and too much cleaning to think about, it ran strong and I started to be able to think about doing something with it besides repairing it all the time, or waiting for it to get back from the shop. Frankly, I was a complete diesel newb at the time, and didn't particularly want to undertake a whole new line of gearhead education. Been there, done that. Had other things to do. Ungodly terrible mistake number two.

Over the following year, I did get time to stuff a Dana 60 in the front, and was about to get around to putting the matching D70 in the back. I'd done a LOT of clean up and cosmetic stuff, just getting used to the truck and making it liveable. Ran a lot of bio through it, and loved the smell of dinner cooking whenever it fired up.

But before I could get much further, I was sitting in my office one day, and smelled smoke. Not unusual, lots of fab and welding here. But it was evening, and it smelled strong. Yeah, you can guess the rest. The truck had been parked inside the shop, and somehow spontaneously caught fire after sitting parked for 6 hours. It was almost a total loss. Started under the hood, and it was too hot to get the hood unlatched by hand, so after 5 fire extinguishers sprayed through the gap at the front of the hood did little but slow the spread, the fire department finally arrived and put it out with a hose after unlatching it with a crowbar. By then the flames had gotten through the firewall, burned the dash to a crisp and started to make it's way towards the rear. Everything from the front seats forward was pretty much useless, the windshield had popped, and it stank to high heaven.

Took me a few months to even want to open the hood to try to see if I could tell where the fire had started. I still don't know really, but my guess is an unholy marriage of abraded starter cable and seeping mech fuel pump lines.

Soooo... after watching a while for a good swap candidate for the fairly-fresh drivetrain, I found a sweet '85 3/4t 4x4 diesel with new paint, a 6" all-spring lift, and dealer-installed Banks kit under $2k.

85 Sub turbo.jpg

The reason for the low price was that the seller's son had overheated it and blown a head gasket, and thinking it needed new gaskets and possibly heads as well, they decided to just put a new pair of Clearwater heads on it and not bother with troubleshooting the mode of failure further.

After installation and a drive around the block, they had coolant in the oil again, and once the oil pan was pulled they could see coolant dripping down two of the bores from above.

Engine on it's way out - front.jpg

[Photo above: Pulling the engine from the '85. It was a Goodwrench svc rplcmt in 1999. Yep, the infamous 506 squirter block. 10mm outer main bolts didn't save this one.]

I crossed my fingers that it might be a problem with the new head gaskets, but no such luck. Block was cracked up the webs, and the crank was shot. Time for a new motor.

Good thing I already had a new(ish) motor.

Engine hoisted out.jpg

A nice lightly-baked NA 6.2 that had been running fine for a year now, and prob still had less than 25k on the clock. Excellent. At least the bottom end should be usable. I started tearing it down to install the newer 6.5 heads, since they'd accept the turbo with no mods to the lines, and had better precups for the turbo, etc.

Engine Compartment - Burned.jpg

[Here's what the cave looked like
just before the motor came out.
Ow, ouch, yikes. Any wonder I
hadn't wanted to look?]

Front - Roasted.jpg

[More carnage. I know how you guys love this stuff. :nonod: ]

Finally got the crank and rods out (Pistons were pretty stuck in
their bores, even after lots of penetrating oil. Fire's a funny thing.)

Main Bearing Saddles.jpg

And guess what I found?

Shredded #5 & #6 Bearings.jpg

Failing rod bearing (ground all the way through at one edge!! :eek: ), another prematurely worn rod bearing, three prematurely worn main bearings including the thrust bearing faces, and inserts on 2/3 of the outer main bolts holes. Nice... not. It's a 141 block, no squirters (but still used grooved bearings... wtf?), 12mm main bolts all the way around, and a crank journal that was obviously damaged from the worst of the rod bearings.

Um... darn. And stuff.

Time for a new motor. Ah-gin.

Too bad the guy who built this one has gone out of business and subsequently retired completely. He was sympathetic when I called him about it, but not motivated to make good on it in any way. Even after painfully f'ing up the first two attempts at rebuilding this thing. Terrific. (See why I can relate to so much of your trauma, Aces? ):h )

So after a lot of casting about looking for an affordable used GEP or 599, I was about to give up and use the block from a running (but otherwise unknown) '82 6.2 with the turbo heads, and hope for the best.

Then I get a call from the machine shop that had planned to mag the old block for me before noticing the cracks by naked eye, saying they had a source for used 599 blocks. $500 for the short block.

And here I am today, about to pull the trigger and start this rebuild rolling. Finally. I know that sometimes you have to do things yourself if you want them done right, but really... this is kind of ridiculous.

But first... today's decision point is.... since I already have a set of std bore 1999 6.5TD pistons from the cracked block, maybe I should have the 599 punched out to 4.030 for the std 6.5 pistons. Or... should I try to find a set of .020 or .030 over 6.2 pistons in order to leave more meat in the block? I'd prefer to go the latter route, but it appears that it'll cost me $400 for the privilege unless any of you fine folks happen to have a line on a used set, or have a friend who works for Mahle or Silvolite. :D

Apparently the block is in such nice shape that if it weren't for one cylinder showing a little too much taper, I might have been able to get away with using the original 6.2 pistons. That would've made my day. But it needs at least an .020 overbore, so there we are.

Tomorrow I take the 6.5 injectors, burnt 4911 pump, and Banks turbo to Diamond Diesel for a checkup. I know the pump needs attention (and probably a full rebuild), but I'm hoping to get away with the injectors as they are. Could've used the almost-new set from the burned truck, but some of them saw a lot of heat, unfortunately. I'm guessing they're toast. Literally.

Roasted Inj Pump and CC Solenoid.jpg

As soon as I make a decision on the pistons, the block will be bored, align bore checked, decked slightly (for the usual erosion near the end cylinder) and squared, crank polished, and the rotating assy balanced. I guess I need to decide if I'm using studs/girdle on the bottom end before checking the mains alignment, eh?

Here's to an imminent ressurection. Just hope I don't run out of cash before getting this thing running. Work is slow as molasses lately. And being truckless really doesn't help matters much! :toetap05:

I'll try to take some snaps of the new motor when I drop off parts at the machine shop. Haven't seen it myself yet. Maybe some shiny metal will make up for all the inferno pix you've just suffered through!
 
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Good luck on the build.

Fire in the engine bay is just NASTY for sure.

The 506 squirt blocks were definately BAD NEWS.

Thats what was in my DaHooooley that went south last summer.

Mine was an early 97 Squirter with 12MM bolts all around.


Missy
 
Interesting... found a set of new military surplus .020 Clevite pistons on eB for ~$160 incl shipping. Sounds great compared to Northern Auto's price of ~$450. Except... seems NA's set includes rings, the HMMV set doesn't. Wanna guess how much a high quality ring set costs? Yep... ~$230 +s&h.

I'd prob save the $40 difference in labor alone, installing the rings on the pistons.

Have to use new rings regardless, so the question is whether to spend another $200 to have new pistons and less overbore.

Anyone have thoughts on whether it's worth $200 to keep an additional .030 of meat in the bores? I'm starting to think it might not be that big a deal with the 599 block, but I have no real hard data to base that on... like for instance HOW MUCH extra material was cast into these blocks, and where exactly?
 
But first... today's decision point is.... since I already have a set of std bore 1999 6.5TD pistons from the cracked block, maybe I should have the 599 punched out to 4.030 for the std 6.5 pistons.

4.055 is stock 6.5 bore, fyi.

How do you know the '599 is a 6.2? Better check, most 599's were 6.5 bore anyways, only very few were 6.2's.

or have a friend who works for Mahle or Silvolite.

If you have a friend who works at Silvolite and they sell you a Silvolite piston for a 6.2 or 6.5, they're not your friend.

I'm saying they're junk pistons, seriously...

Opt for the Mahle or Sealed Power.

Sounds like you've had your share of cracked blocks, if you want a fixed block ship your crack-free block to me and I'll have it splayed and race prepped align bored.

J
 
4.055 is stock 6.5 bore, fyi.


Thanks for the correction. I've been puzzling over that a bit. The Goodwrench motor (506 6.5 block) that was dealer-installed in the '85 Sub has pistons that measure 4.020 in dia, INCLUDING the carbon buildup at the top edge. Bores measured about 4.030 with dial calipers, probably a little larger in reality, again due to the ring of carbon at the top edge of the bore. Does that make this motor some kind of oddball stepchild?

Hmmm...


How do you know the '599 is a 6.2? Better check, most 599's were 6.5 bore anyways, only very few were 6.2's.

Machine shop had the supplier measure the bores before purchase, and measured again when the block was received. I was pleasantly surprised myself.


If you have a friend who works at Silvolite and they sell you a Silvolite piston for a 6.2 or 6.5, they're not your friend.

I'm saying they're junk pistons, seriously...

Opt for the Mahle or Sealed Power.

Thanks much for the tip. Do you know how a set of NOS Clevite (now merged with Mahle) pistons might compare in quality to the current Mahle product?

Sounds like you've had your share of cracked blocks, if you want a fixed block ship your crack-free block to me and I'll have it splayed and race prepped align bored.

J

If I do this again, it will be with an AMG block and a forged crank. Heck, if I've read the info right, the P400 is only a few bucks more than the Optimizer.

Any opinion on whether the additional (.035?) overbore is worth avoiding on the 599 blocks?
.
.
 
Be carefull on the NOS Clevite, they boxed both Mahle and Silvolite pistons with their name on them. It's a toss up.

If you're getting 6.2L pistons I'd recommend the Sealed Power pistons, they're the better 6.2 piston. If you're going to overbore the engine to get to 4.055 then I'd opt for the Mahle standard pistons.

J
 
Be carefull on the NOS Clevite, they boxed both Mahle and Silvolite pistons with their name on them. It's a toss up.

If you're getting 6.2L pistons I'd recommend the Sealed Power pistons, they're the better 6.2 piston. If you're going to overbore the engine to get to 4.055 then I'd opt for the Mahle standard pistons.

J

Thanks VERY much for the tip. Northern Auto Parts lists theirs as Clevite, not Mahle. Any idea how to distinguish between the Mahle and Silvolite units visually?

Can you elaborate on what you've found lacking in the Silvolites? (Just curious.)

Personally, I've had poor experiences with Sealed Power products, mostly qc issues. But they've cost me a camshaft (bad lifter), and a gas motor (bad piston). Probably not going there again.


Still scratching my head over the 4.030 bores in the 6.5.
.
.
 
The Silvolite pistons for both the 6.2 and 6.5 crack. They have a very weak wrist pin boss and will crack. The other issue is that whatever they're using in their aluminum is just brittle, the crowns crack too. All this under normal usage.

I have a buddy that ran a set and his failed under hard use in less than 10k miles.

I've seen numerious torn down reman engines that had them in it, same conditions observed.

Sealed Power makes a tough 6.2 piston.

I can't say for the QC of the other components. I run SBI lifters, but all the lifters are made at the same place and boxed by most of all. The only crappy lifters are the ones Melling makes (horrible).

4.030 issue.

You're measuring with a caliper, with carbon buildup at the top of the bore, that's the margin of error.

You'll see a range of 4.0535 to 4.056. The very top of the bore doesn't wear, the wear starts at the first compression ring. You need to use one of these two methods to pull a measurement:

-Snap gauge for bore size and appropriate ranged micrometer
-Cylinder bore dial gage.

The snap gauge method takes practice to get some accuracy though.

J
 
Interesting thought...

A .060" overbore 6.2 is 4.036"

There are .060" os pistons for the 6.2.
 
That one crossed my mind too... but then I thought, how does a mid-90's 141 block ever leave Flint with a bore smaller than 4.055? I'd already have taken a much closer measurement of the block, but it's at the machine shop, headed for the scrap pile.

I think I found the problem though... I'd been measuring the pistons at the top surface. Always done it that way on gas motors without issue. Measuring skirt-to-skirt on this same piston, I get 4.050. I think that solves that mystery. Are diesel pistons intentionally tapered slightly for more clearance at the top of the piston than at the skirt?

Anyway, so much for reusing those pistons. I'm not going to bore the 599 out to 4.055 when all it needs is .020 over, which would bring it to just under 4.000.

It seems that Sealed Power has merged with Sterling, which led to finding a rather astonishing price an online outfit called horsepower parts dot com, which listed a "Sterling" piston with the same Sealed Power PN for 28 bucks each. That's less than half the cost of the Sealed Power pistons listed at all the usual sites. Hmmm.

Followed up on an eBay ad for an NOS set of 6.2 + .020 Clevite pistons posted by Northern. Called to see who actually manufactured this set, and asked for a price comparison with a new set direct from Mahle. Turns out they have the current Mahles in stock for about 80% of the NOS Clevite auction price!

So since rings cost 200+ per set, and the Mahle set comes with rings installed, the pistons are essentially costing me about <$200, and saving me just under .060 worth of additional cylinder bore.

Now I just have to cough up the $400 plus shipping.

In other news, I dropped off the 4911 injection pump from the burned motor to be checked out. It'll cost me $100 if everything's fine. $600 plus if it needs an overhaul. And another $400 if the hydraulic head hasn't already been updated with the hot start improvement. Ow.

Injectors were all in good shape, but they're 6.2 units. Apparently I'll need to shell out another $500 for a set of 6.5 turbo squirts. Double ow.

Anyone need a set of low mile NA injectors? They're original GM Delphi units. Just tested at Diamond Diesel (top notch diesel injection shop), all atomizing nicely and popping between 1650 & 1800, within factory spec.
 
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I think I found the problem though... I'd been measuring the pistons at the top surface. Always done it that way on gas motors without issue. Measuring skirt-to-skirt on this same piston, I get 4.050. I think that solves that mystery.QUOTE]

Yep, that's the issue, you always measure the skirt, gassers, diesels, that's where you take the measurement. Many piston mfg's will specifically tell you how far up the skirt to take your measurement too. 1" is an accepted level from the bottom of the skirt.

No biggie, now you know...

J
 
Here is a post about 6.2 pistons that MaxPF (on his/my engine build thread) wrote over on CK5

Last week I ordered one Sealed Power 6.2 piston from Summit to inspect it for myself. A guy on the Diesel Place forum said it was beefy and showed pics. Well, it IS beefy, but it has a serious flaw. Here's a pic:


Looks pretty robust. Here's a pic of the crown:

P1010011-r.JPG


Here's a side view. See if you can spot the problem:

P1010002-r.JPG


See the problem? There is no armored ring in the top groove. Here's a pic of a piston with an armored groove:

4c_1_b.JPG


That steel insert keeps the top compression ring from beating the **** out of the ring land. It's pretty much a necessity on a diesel piston. I'm a bit dismayed that Federal-Mogul decided not to include it, since it basically makes the piston worthless for a reliable build...
 
Got the word from the diesel injection shop today. My DB2 4911 pump is in good shape, no apparent damage from the fire. Hydraulic head doesn't need updating (hot start fix), so it's a $600 rebuild.

I'm wondering what needs rebuilding since the pump is only a year old since it's last rebuild. I know they intend to replace all the rubber and ... vanes, I think? Does it make sense that they'd charge the full price of a rebuild under the circumstances? (Sorry, I'm woefully ignorant when it comes to these pumps.)

Secondly, if I'm paying full rebuild price anyway, are there any tweaks or upgrades I should be asking about? This will be going on the 599 6.5 with a older 6.2 Banks Sidewinder kit, 3'' exh from DP all the way back, and a possible turbo upgrade in it's future. It'd be nice to think I could eventually run up to 3400 rpm without running out of fuel or returning the pump for more work.
 
AFAIK The DB2-4911 is a 6.5TD IP used in the early 90's. I know that is not the number on the DB2's used on any of my 6.2s so if that is true it's already putting out enough fuel for a Turbo. Man, you should adopt my Avatar. Feel free to use my smiley..
:suicide:
Some of the prices you are being quoted IMHO are way too high. You can get reman 6.5TD Nozzles from Accurate diesel for about 240$+80$ core. He would probably take your 6.2 ones back as cores but even so that's still way cheaper than 500$. Also 600$+400$ for the IP is too high as well. You could buy a BRAND new one for that. How hard are you driving these poor motors to keep killing them like that ??? Gonna give Chris K a run for carnage. I have a Jimmy outside with 330K on it original motor and other than some managable oil consumption, it still runs like a top. I'm surprised anything was salvagable off the burned motor. Heat does nasty things to part that have tight tolerances.
Sadly, I think my 90 Burb is going to get cut up unless I find a real clen frame and the motivation to swap. I think I'm going to gut the driveline for the Jimmy I have Pending further inspection of the frame on it.
 
The 4911 IP has the .310 diameter plungers and is capable of supplying enough fuel to a 6.5 to either make plenty of power or melt the thing, whichever occurs first.

The 6.2 pumps had the .290 plungers and will not put out as much fuel even when cranked all the way to the nuts.


Missy
 
Yeah but did 6.2s ever come with a 4911 ? I don't think they did to my knowledge unless maybe a marine app but those had DB4s anything I think.
 
Yeah but did 6.2s ever come with a 4911 ? I don't think they did to my knowledge unless maybe a marine app but those had DB4s anything I think.

No, I think you're absolutely right. The 4911 was solely an early 6.5TD pump, AFAIK.

No idea how it got slapped onto the 6.2 in my Sub. My best guess is that it was a reman exchange unit that came as part of the overhaul I had done, in exchange for the original pump. Probably the one stroke of luck I've had so far on this thing since I bought it.

And yeah, I've been tempted to borrow your patented smiley more than once during this process... though this one is probably more appropriate :drama:

You can get a new DB2-4911 for $600 ??? Sign me up... I have another motor to build in the near future.

Still have to figure out the best option for remanned OEM injectors... may well end up with Accurate.

Good luck with your '90 Aces... I'm still rooting for you to find a solid frame for it so it doesn't end up being cannibalized. Have to do something similar myself with my burned '90. Hoping to find a wrecked diesel Sub donor for interior and engine compartment parts.
 
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I'm gonna sound the chassis on the 83 Jimmy I have. If that chassis is good I may swap everything from the Burb to the Jimmy. Get a price from Tim on an IP as well. He's about the only one I would trust these days. Alot of junk out there. a 4911 may be more than a 6.2 DB2(forgot the #) but I don't think it's much. IIRC Tim shot me a price of around 450$ for a DB2 4911 but I could be wrong. My only issue was I would have to eat the core charge as I don't have a 4911 to send back. I've been scrounging ebay for a 4911 core cheap. I have bought 4 sets of remn nozzles from Tim with no issues.
 
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