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Yeah baby! Yeah...726hp / 1291tq

Cumminalong

Cumminalong

Doghouse Diesel Performance
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Location
East Alabama
Got 'er all dialed in and maxed out now.

Made 2 pulls today.

Ended up with 726HP and 1291 lb/ft of Torque...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R0JsAuRULr4

726HP.jpg


726HP1291TQ.jpg


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:thumbsup:
 
Awesome pulls...:thumbsup:

When are any of the enthusiast here gonna get to see it in person at a dragstrip nearby... ;)
 
Every time I watch your video's your making more and more power with that thing :D

And every time I go outside and look at my truck and wonder why it can't do the same...

lol Thats friggin awesome man. Congrats!
 
BigBlueChevy said:
Every time I watch your video's your making And every time I go outside and look at my truck and wonder why it can't do the same...
Click to expand...

Well, my goal for it is this.......

800 - 850 STREETABLE horsepower on fuel only. No crazy idling, no hard starting, no either needed, etc. Fully streetable, daily driver AND able to tow is the goal. A 'Vette / Mustang / Viper killer that can still haul a load of wood and pull a stuck buddy out of the mud.

Now, I also plan on a double shot of nitrous (75/150) and I want it at 1000 HP with that.

My goal for this truck from the get-go was to NOT have it LOOK like a super-truck. I wanted it to remain the kind of vehicle that someone in a Mustang, Camaro, 'Vette, other hotrod......whatever, pulls up to and thinks he's gonna whoop some azz and then gets his handed to him.

Keeping it psuedo-stealthy was one of my intents. It still had to look good, but I didn't want it to look 700+ HP good.

:thumbsup:
 
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Congrats man! I've been following your posts. This truck is a killer. Really like the plan of blowing off the muscle cars. Awesome.
 
Non Typical said:
Congrats man! I've been following your posts. This truck is a killer. Really like the plan of blowing off the muscle cars. Awesome.
Click to expand...

Thanks brother! I appreciate it.

Now, I think I have found the limit of a few stock components in the drive train.

Had to replace the passenger side front u-joint this weekend and decided to do both of them with greaseable Spicer joints.

Slide3-14.jpg


Slide6-9.jpg


The passenger side was plenty easy, no surprises there. I knew this joint was going out as the seals were broken in it.

What I didn't expect was what I found on the driver side (short side). The dog ears on the axle yoke were bent. :mad2:

So, that pretty much stopped the u-joint swap and now I need a whole new driver side axle shaft assembly.
 
Non Typical said:
I'm guessing that the engineers, weren't expecting the yoke to be handling that much power, eh? :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

Yeah, I don't think they had 1291 lbs of torque intended for them in the design process.

):h

I would have thought the u-joints would have given up the ghost well before I bent those yokes though.

See a shaft fracture is one thing, but bending the yoke is an odd one.
 
So how well does the rod's and pistons hold up to this kind of power on a Cummins?
 
Woody35 said:
the truck looks goodand those turbos sound sweet. my goal is 200 steetable horsepower.
Click to expand...

Shoot for it man. Making that power out of a 6.5 is easier than ever.

Cumminalong: When I worked in a truck shop, we occasionally saw truck come in with bent yokes. Typically caused by excessive force on the yoke, which could be brought about by letting the truck roll backwards on a hill a few feet before engaging the clutch. But, I don't think we really saw any that bent them while engaged in level ground driving! :thumbsup:

Dang, watched the video again just to hear that turbo spool up. Put's a jet turbine to shame
 
8100 Power said:
So how well does the rod's and pistons hold up to this kind of power on a Cummins?
Click to expand...

Stock Cummins internals are generally good up to around the 1000HP mark if it's fuel only, 800 if you are adding a nitrous shot.

Usually the first things that limit you on the engine internals are the stock valve springs, head bolts, head gasket and damper.

Swap out valve springs and you can turn 4000 RPM.

Swap out the harmonic damper and get the crank balanced and you can run 4500 RPM.

Swap the head bolts for 12 mm studs and the 70 psi is possible. Get the block tapped for 14mm studs and fire ring it and you can throw however much boost you want at it. 100+ psi with that setup is not uncommon.
 
actually the internals on the Cummins are quite strong on there own. Only thing that is a problem is the valve spring but he has aftermarkets of those.

IIRC its around 700 or 800hp that internals need to be changed out for stronger stuff.

Which means your either buying on time or really close.
 
Cumminalong said:
Stock Cummins internals are generally good up to around the 1000HP mark if it's fuel only, 800 if you are adding a nitrous shot.

Usually the first things that limit you on the engine internals are the stock valve springs, head bolts, head gasket and damper.

Swap out valve springs and you can turn 4000 RPM.

Swap out the harmonic damper and get the crank balanced and you can run 4500 RPM.

Swap the head bolts for 12 mm studs and the 70 psi is possible. Get the block tapped for 14mm studs and fire ring it and you can throw however much boost you want at it. 100+ psi with that setup is not uncommon.
Click to expand...


wow, I was way off. Whoops :D

Go figure. oh well, learn something new everyday.


Cumminalong is there a special process involved with drilling and tapping the block for 14MM studds? Or is that something a guy with a drill and a tapping set can pull off. Probubly not I'm thinkin. What EXACTLY is the "fire Ring" anyway?
 
BigBlueChevy said:
Cumminalong is there a special process involved with drilling and tapping the block for 14MM studds? Or is that something a guy with a drill and a tapping set can pull off. Probubly not I'm thinkin. What EXACTLY is the "fire Ring" anyway?
Click to expand...

Drilling and tapping for 14mm studs require removing the engine. And no, this is not something the average guy with a tap and die set could do. Well.....you "could" but not with a tap set from Home Depot. You need long shank, HARDENED taps to do it.

I certainly wouldn't do it even if I had it out. I'd send that kind of work out.

The fire rings are where you have a set of circular grooves machined into the head. The grooves are machined to be half the depth of a set of steel rings that go in them. You put the rings into the gooves and then reinstall the head. What this does is completely seals off each individual cylinder and essentially sandwiches the head gasket MUCH tighter than it is with just the head bolts or studs.

If you are running more that 70 psi or nitrous, it's a must. Otherwise you hear that lovely "brrrrrrrrrrp" as the gasket flutters as the head lifts and you vent compressed air across the head gasket and it eventually gives up the ghost.

Here's what it looks like.......

2164103920.gif
 
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