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WTF are these?

doughboy18718

Diesel Retard!
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The Burg, VA
I have attached these pics, can somebody help me figure them out?

I think the line in pic 2 is supposed to be attached to the fubber boot in pic 1. Pic 3 is where they lead, but i am not 100% sure.......
 

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That is your boost solenoid on the valve cover and those are the vacuum lines that are supposed to go to your turbo wastegate actuator. If you have a manual wastegate like a turbomaster they are not needed, but otherwise you probably have pretty crummy performance. Some codes?
 
i have no clue what wastegate i have, i have yet to actually drive the truck. I haven't tried pulling codes yet either, i can't keep the d*mn thing running!
 
Image 1, vacuum outlet from the vac pump.

Image 2, probably should go to the outlet in image 1.

Image 3, the turbo wastegate solenoid.

There are 3 solenoids so the engine is S engine with EGR.

Take a pic of your turbo, we can probably figure out if you still have the vacuum controled turbo or mechanical.
 
If you've got the stock wastegate setup, you'll need to repair those lines to get it to work correctly again.

The orange line connects to the vac pump. the black line on the wastegate solenoid should have a black vac line on it that runs to the wastegate if the stock system is still in place.
 
Image 1, vacuum outlet from the vac pump.

Image 2, probably should go to the outlet in image 1.

Image 3, the turbo wastegate solenoid.

There are 3 solenoids so the engine is S engine with EGR.

Take a pic of your turbo, we can probably figure out if you still have the vacuum controled turbo or mechanical.

Here are the pics:
 

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If you've got the stock wastegate setup, you'll need to repair those lines to get it to work correctly again.

The orange line connects to the vac pump. the black line on the wastegate solenoid should have a black vac line on it that runs to the wastegate if the stock system is still in place.

Can running without those damage the wastegate or turbo?
 
That looks like a neglected engine, all the oil leaking around the turbo. It shouldnt damage anything and the truck would probably start with it messed up like that, so you must have other problems.

The wastegate actuator is the lever type thing below the intake arm there, so youll have to remove the intake or get a picture down there. A manual actuator would just be a large spring most likely on a metal mount.

You havent gotten it running at all? Does the diagnostic system even work? You get the GloPlug light and SES light with IGN ON engine off? Check the codes by jumpering A&B of the OBD port and turning IGN ON, dont crank. The SES light will flash the codes. Let me know if you dont know how it works.
 
is it just me or does it look like there is no waste gate control at all ??
definitely would put a new CDR (not EGR indeed thanks buddy) valve on my heathdiesel.com wishlist .....
among other things (like a turbomaster boost controller)
but it looks like you need to step back and take some time to make a whole list indeed....
 
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Think you meant new CDR lupo, not EGR :)

looks like the vacuum line is running under the intake arm/elbow to where the actuator should be if you remove the intake elbow.
 
That looks like a neglected engine, all the oil leaking around the turbo. It shouldnt damage anything and the truck would probably start with it messed up like that, so you must have other problems.

The wastegate actuator is the lever type thing below the intake arm there, so youll have to remove the intake or get a picture down there. A manual actuator would just be a large spring most likely on a metal mount.

You havent gotten it running at all? Does the diagnostic system even work? You get the GloPlug light and SES light with IGN ON engine off? Check the codes by jumpering A&B of the OBD port and turning IGN ON, dont crank. The SES light will flash the codes. Let me know if you dont know how it works.

She will crank. She has ran a few times here recently, although briefly. I think I have crud in the tank, causing the newly installed fuel filter to clog. I also need to check the starter bolts to ensure I haven't bent or broken them (and yes i have the starter bracket installed). I am sure i have many other problems with this thing, other than the wastegate. I have to move the PMD, change the battery cables, and numerous other things i don't want to remind myself of right now. I get the Glow Plug light, but not sure what the SES light is. I haven't tried to check the codes yet, as i now have to work on my daily driver and put this on hold for now. But thanks for all the great info, i am soaking it up like a sponge!
 
is it just me or does it look like there is no waste gate control at all ??
definitely would put a new EGR valve on my heathdiesel.com wishlist .....
among other things (like a turbomaster boost controller)
but it looks like you need to step back and take some time to make a whole list indeed....

I can't talk about my heathdiesel.com list, or the wife will make me sleep in the spare room again........:nono:
 
If you dont get a Service Engine Soon (SES) light with IGN ON engine off but your glow plug light is working it could be a blown bulb (inconvenient), or your guages fuse is blown in the fuse center under the steering wheel column.

Checking codes take about 2 minutes and no special equipment on the 94. Just a jumper (ie paperclip) and a functioning SES light of course.
 
Can running without those damage the wastegate or turbo?

Since there is no connection between the Vac Pump or Turbo, it means the turbo does not function. Hence there is no turbo. It is not required for the truck to run but it will have no power. Since you need EGR, the EGR system is not there either.
 
If you dont get a Service Engine Soon (SES) light with IGN ON engine off but your glow plug light is working it could be a blown bulb (inconvenient), or your guages fuse is blown in the fuse center under the steering wheel column.

Checking codes take about 2 minutes and no special equipment on the 94. Just a jumper (ie paperclip) and a functioning SES light of course.

Well i have never seen the SES light come on at all, so i guess i am SOL with that route for now. I will look under the column tomorrow, but i have a feeling i'm not going to like what i find. I plan on getting a code reader in the future, guess that just made it the near future now.
 
You dont need any readers for the codes, unless your SES light doesnt work, burnt out bulb. In which case you should just repalce the bulb. It could also be a broken wire which I can tell you what to check if your fuses are all good. A paperclip is all you need to read codes.

Whatever you dont buy that crap reader for $30 at the parts store. Alls it is a piece of wire that jumpers pin A and B on the OBD port. If anything you can buy a real diagnostic tool, the OBD1/ALDL cable to USB that you can plug into a laptop, or any computer and read out the DTCs as well as all the sensor readings. engh motors sells the cable and has free software that will do that. Or they sell a software that will also allow you to set TDCO and some other nice diagnostic features.
 
enghmotors.com, and they have free software or the more capable one in a package with the cable.

For the SES light have you checked the fuses? Next is checking some wires that go to the PCM. Let me know.
 
enghmotors.com, and they have free software or the more capable one in a package with the cable.

For the SES light have you checked the fuses? Next is checking some wires that go to the PCM. Let me know.

I haven't checked anything yet, as i have been under the weather the past few days. I have to fix my daily driver this weekend before i can tinker with this anymore, so it may be monday before i can get to checking the codes, but i will post as soon as i can.
 
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