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Woo Hoo!! Truck Has A New Noise!!

Today's Updates:

DP to Turbo Flange all good.

Downpipe all good.

Intake Tube all good.

IC Boots & Connections all good.

Vane Position Sensor was a lil Gummy, Cleaned it, all good.

No Hidden Codes.

Turbo Vanes Logged with EFI and they are Functioning as they should (as far as I can tell). Ran Desired VS Actual Vane Position.

It sounds like a Large Volume of Air is Getting Out from somewhere.

Do the IC's on our Trucks have Plastic End-Tanks? If they do, maybe mine Cracked somehow?

Fan Clutch acting up?

If I get a Long Stretch of Road, I can get it to make the Noise Constantly at a Specific Throttle Position.

I'm totally Stumped at this Point.
 
Does your pcv still go into the stock location on the intake? If that plastic pipe is cracked, you could possibly see white blowby vapor coming out.
 
PCV is Vented to Atmosphere

Black Plastic Resontaor has been Deleted for a long time now.

EGR is Totally Deleted.

I did have an Idea though. I Noticed the Noise the same day I put my Winter Front on. I dunno what Relation it would have with the Noise, but I took it off before. Tomorrow when I go out, I'll see if the Noise is still there. Gonna be Shocking as Hell if it's gone though!! But then that'll have me thinking it's something with the Fan Clutch maybe?
 
You can hit the intake with regulated compressed air at 20 PSI and see if you can find the leak. Yes, you can split the intercoolers. I would look at the hot side where the tank attaches to the fins.
 
Ok, Winter Cover is Off and Noise is still there.

Pulled the Wheel Well Liners to get a better Look at things.

Driver Side Looks fine.

Passenger Side, something isn't Right. Now that I could see the Insulation on the Firewall from a different Angle and Up Close, it def. wasn't like that, and I"m pretty sure I can see some Soot on the Firewall as well.

So now it's looking like I did Blow a Hole in the Downpipe AGAIN, or from the EGR Delete, something Cracked on the Passenger Side Up-Pipe, prob. one of the Bellows.
 
Got the Downpipe out and it's not Cracked / no Holes.

It's gotta be the the damn Up-Pipe, which I am dreading. I'm just gonna put it back together until it starts getting Warmer / Lighter Longer. Then it won't be so Brutal to Work on it Outside.

Maybe by then I'll be able to find an LB7 Pass Side Up-Pipe since all the Places I ask if they have them In-Stock, never Write back to me.
 
Mad Maxx said:
So just did some Searching around on the Net, and while it isn't as common on our Trucks as it is on the Powerstroke, it DOES happen.

Alot of people say to just go out and Beat the Snot out of it and that should free the Vanes up if they are stuck. They say you can't hurt anything because everything is Governed. Does that sound right?
Click to expand...

This post reminded me of someone else's truck that I am acquainted with. The Snap-On dealer local to an area I lived in owns a 3500 DRW LBZ (06/07) truck with LOW miles, like 16,000...he bought it new, drives it on weekends, tows a good sized boat, but seldomly and drives it real easy. He started throwing a code and loosing power. It was vane position sensor related, out of range or something like that. What it boiled down to was replace the turbo. With the EGR and everything in place it had gummed up everything to the point that it was not cleanable/salvagable. He knows a very knowledgeable GM tech/a very experienced one, and they fiddled with it a while, putting a known good vane position sensor on it, and trying a few solvents to clean it out, but no dice. Low low miles, babied, out of warranty (age), needed a turbo. The tech mentioned with the VVTs you had to go out put a load on it and work that danged thing regularly. When he plugged this one in and manually ran it through all positions it failed. :(
 
Well, found and confirmed the "Noise" today.

The Bellow on the EGR Riser has a hole in it.

Felt it with me bare, freezing cold hand.

Atleast I can put this to rest now and dread the day that comes that I try to swap this Pipe out.
 
Well, at least you found and diagnosed the issue James. It seems that you have had quite a few issues relating to the EGR delete.
 
RI Chevy Silveradoman said:
Well, at least you found and diagnosed the issue James. It seems that you have had quite a few issues relating to the EGR delete.
Click to expand...

Yep, prob. one of the worst decisions / mods I've done so far. It's one of those things where if you change it, you don't NEED to, but you SHOULD change other things to make it all work correctly. (Up-Pipe)
 
Culprit....

Got it done today. Honestly, after reading everyone's Horror Stories about changing the Up Pipes, I was scared shitless about doing this.

Had a friend come by to Help, only to turn the Wrench while I Held it on the Bolts under the Turbo. He Cracked them loose, and I Backed them out.

But...it wasn't bad at all. Nothing Broke, everything came out easily, and all was good. I was actually Shocked at how easy it was. So I dunno what everyone was Bitching about, and Breaking Tools, and using Jacks and Ratchet Straps on the Wrenches, ect... I didn't have to use any of that. I used a basic 3/8 Ratchet, 3/8 Breaker Bar, 12pt 12mm Shallow & Deep Socket, and that's it. Basic Tools.

No new Curse Words were made or anything.

From Start to Finish, it took about an Hour.
 

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Why do you need the riser if the EGR is blocked? Couldn't you just block that off? Not familiar with how that all works...
 
Yea, just put in an OE LB7 Pipe.

I had the EGR Blocked and was happy with it.

Then I got the Cool Side IC Pipe, and that required the EGR System to be Deleted. So I did that and everything was fine.

Then one day, the EGR Riser Bellow cracked like in the Pic. It was supported, so I dunno why it Cracked.

But after all the Headache of doing this, I shoulda just left the EGR Blocked and called it a day.

Honestly, IMO, all this work isn't worth the Results.
 
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