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Wiring nightmare under my dash

J

juddspaintballs

my balls are painted!
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Location
West by God Virginia
I don't know for sure, but I'm guessing that this is an aftermarket alarm system. I know nothing about it, but the wiring sure looks like a hack job to me. Here are a few pictures of whats in there. I need some guidance to see what I can pull out without affecting the truck. Is that array of relays stock or part of the hack job? If anyone can send me a colored wiring diagram, I would greatly appreciate it.

IMAG0165.jpg


IMAG0162.jpg


IMAG0164.jpg


IMAG0163.jpg
 
Apparently that wiring is important. My security light came on, my ABS light came on, and my door locks quit working. I think I got it all plugged back in properly, but my ABS light is still on and my door locks still don't work. WTH.
 
aftermarket.

right down to the relays.

If it's a remote start and alarm with keyless entry, that would explain your non working locks.

Not sure on the ABS light. Might have something to due with being tied into the brake pedal for the remote start/security.

Yes, it is what I would call a "hack job".

Unfortunately, that's the type and quality of work you get from almost every "professional installer" these days....
 
Go to your local library. They should have some kind of online access to get you some schematics.

Don
 
you don't really need diagrams if you just want to remove it.

Follow the wires back to the splices/taps/crimps and remove them.

If they have cut wires, they're all color coded. solder them back together and heat shrink.

I have yet to see one of these kits that does any more than cutting a wire, I haven't seen one that removes a wire, the damage is repairable....
 
I got lucky removing the wiring hack job. The person who wired it did not CUT any of the stock wiring harness. They peeled back the sheathing on the wires, separated the strands in two parts, shoved in the extra wiring, twisted the mess together, and slapped some tape around it. It was easy enough to pull the extra wiring out and cleanly tape sheathing closed. The only way to use heat shrink tubing would have been to actually cut the wire and solder it back together. There was only one wire cut and I soldered it together properly and used heat shrink on that. Then I wrapped the entire factory wiring harness in electrical tape again and tucked it up where it should be. I feel a lot better not having that mess in the truck anymore.

I still have the ABS light on in the dash and my door locks still don't work. Any ideas on those? I didn't find any blow fuses in the fuse panel on the driver's side of the dash.

Here's a picture of the mess I ripped out:
imag0166p.jpg
 
Anything power that's not working in the doors is usually a broken wire in the door boot. They flex everytime the door is opened and closed and eventually fatigue.

A quick solder and heat shrink fixes em right up.

I had to repair one for the passenger side locks.

For abs, heck the wires for the front wheel sensors. They run into a similar problem with flexing and fatiguing. Mine were broken but hidden by the metal clamp that holds them at the flex point. A cut wire will give the abs light.
 
The ABS light went out on it's own. The door locks still don't work. I tried from the passenger door and also the cargo doors and the locks don't work there either. That leads me to believe it's unlikely a single wire, but it could be possible...
 
juddspaintballs said:
The ABS light went out on it's own. The door locks still don't work. I tried from the passenger door and also the cargo doors and the locks don't work there either. That leads me to believe it's unlikely a single wire, but it could be possible...
Click to expand...

drivers side door is a master switch.

broken wire there ca kill everything.

It's worth pulling the boot back and having a peek....
 
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