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Window regulator

Big T

Big T

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Location
Fullerton, CA
Haven’t opened the door up just yet, but the driver’s side door window has lost connection to the regulator. No up, no down. I can pull the window, but it immediately drops down.

Before this condition there was some grinding when I tried to move it up with the button. It had been deteriorating/binding for awhile before this, just no time to address. Now that the vehicle is running great with the new 6.5 Optimizer, addressing this is at the top of my list. Anything I should look for?
 
I've had the glue that holds the window to the track fail and then the track falls out of the scissor lift regulator. Have some good 2 core epoxy on hand for re attaching the track to the window. It's a lot of fussing and fighting in a tight space working inside these doors but once you pull off the panels it will be obvious what is wrong.
 
I had the drivers door window start to grind. ended up replacing the motor. inside the motor there is a plastic gear that strips out. it's by design to break in the event someone's hand or head is in the line of the track when the window is closing. when you pick up or push down on the window does it feel like the track and rollers are still connected? if the track came off the glass, the window will also tilt in the channel.
 
dbrannon79 said:
I had the drivers door window start to grind. ended up replacing the motor. inside the motor there is a plastic gear that strips out. it's by design to break in the event someone's hand or head is in the line of the track when the window is closing. when you pick up or push down on the window does it feel like the track and rollers are still connected? if the track came off the glass, the window will also tilt in the channel.
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When I pull up window, feels unattached.

I ordered new regulator by Aisin on Amazon. Probably should have ordered with motor.
 
Will L. said:
Also- get ones with a lifetime warranty.
I bought some and had them fail in less than a year- then different truck had one fail at about 18 months
Click to expand...
I always used GM. I don't remember ever having to change one twice.

Might be, because we only had one vehicle make it to 400,000 and beyond.
The 1989.

Everything else was over 300,000.
I wi a h I could have kept up on things, We'd still have them all.
Except maybe the 1994 dually, it was starting to rust. Not as bad as the Tahoe. But the Tahoe seemed more worth fixing.
 
DieselAmateur said:
I've had the glue that holds the window to the track fail and then the track falls out of the scissor lift regulator. Have some good 2 core epoxy on hand for re attaching the track to the window. It's a lot of fussing and fighting in a tight space working inside these doors but once you pull off the panels it will be obvious what is wrong.
Click to expand...
i canceled my regulator order on Amazon because they had not shipped it yet and a new order of regulator with motor would not arrive until January 9th. So I ordered the same Aisin unit with motor on RockAuto, which has already shipped. They recommended replacing the channel on the bottom of the window, so I threw that in. Do I need the Dorman rivets and nuts installation kit?
 
No, you won't need the rivets. Reason being they are larger than your standard pop riven gun and buying the right size gun is prohibitively expensive. Re- install the regulator with either self tapping screws or stainless nuts and bolts. Think I went the stainless option but may not be necessary for you since you're not in salt country
 
Stainless screws, stainless nylock nuts and get some sort of antiseize on the threads. It is recommended from a couple of the members of the forum to ise the nickel base anti seize.
Without some type of anti seize on the threads the threads will gall and lock up if ever they need to be removed.
 
MrMarty51 said:
Stainless screws, stainless nylock nuts and get some sort of antiseize on the threads. It is recommended from a couple of the members of the forum to ise the nickel base anti seize.
Without some type of anti seize on the threads the threads will gall and lock up if ever they need to be removed.
Click to expand...
Marty, stainless does not rust.
 
DieselAmateur said:
No, you won't need the rivets. Reason being they are larger than your standard pop riven gun and buying the right size gun is prohibitively expensive. Re- install the regulator with either self tapping screws or stainless nuts and bolts. Think I went the stainless option but may not be necessary for you since you're not in salt country
Click to expand...
MrMarty51 said:
Stainless screws, stainless nylock nuts and get some sort of antiseize on the threads. It is recommended from a couple of the members of the forum to ise the nickel base anti seize.
Without some type of anti seize on the threads the threads will gall and lock up if ever they need to be removed.
Click to expand...
I often combine stainless with plated grade 8 and antiseize.

Galling is an.issue. especially if you overthighten. If you never take it apart - at our ages that's not out of the question, you're just looking out for the next guy
 
DieselAmateur said:
No, you won't need the rivets. Reason being they are larger than your standard pop riven gun and buying the right size gun is prohibitively expensive. Re- install the regulator with either self tappingi screws or stainless nuts and bolts. Think I went the stainless option but may not be necessary for you since you're not in salt country
Click to expand...
I always had the right size gun for lagging head pulleys on bucket elevators / grain legs
 
for easy installation, if you have a welder I would take the nuts and tack them to the inside of the regulator so that you don't have to weesle your arm into the door, just get it into place and thread the bolt in from the outside!

be careful on sizing when replacing the motor on the regulator and where your hands are!! taking the motor off can result in snipped off fingers! the regulator is spring loaded. the clearance is tight too, when I did the one on the 93 I had to use some pan head screws and grind the tops of the head down just a bit so they would clear the movement of the regulator. use of the cordless impact cinched them down since there was no way to grab hold of them.
 
dbrannon79 said:
for easy installation, if you have a welder I would take the nuts and tack them to the inside of the regulator so that you don't have to weesle your arm into the door, just get it into place and thread the bolt in from the outside!

be careful on sizing when replacing the motor on the regulator and where your hands are!! taking the motor off can result in snipped off fingers! the regulator is spring loaded. the clearance is tight too, when I did the one on the 93 I had to use some pan head screws and grind the tops of the head down just a biIt so they would clear the movement of the regulator. use of the cordless impact cinched them down since there was no way to grab hold of them.
Click to expand...
I used some torx head screws that had a very flat head. About 1/8" thick. I believe they were 10-32.
Most of the time I just used rivets again
 
Regulator/motor arrived on Sunday, which is a day early. Pulled the interior panel off the door and found two loose screws plus one that had dropped out to the bottom of the door. Explains the rattle and why the regulator was no longer engaging. I installed the new regular and motor, keeping the old as a reserve.
 
Sorry the loose screws and the one that dropped out were on the motor to the window regulator. With the motor loose, its gear jumped off the regulator.

The install took way too long due to many screw ups which forced rework. Now I am expert again. Window is working great:

 
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