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why's my exhaust leaking?

Detroit Dan

Detroit Dan

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Epping NH
Whole system seems tight, but I've got a pretty good leak at the turbo clamp. Checked and it's all still tight, can't see why it's decided to leak there. Not real old, less than two years. Not rotted I don't think. I think I'm going to have to take the clamp off and pull it apart to see. That stinks. Anyone have this happen and know what it might be? Getting exhaust fumes in the cab from it a little, so it's gotta be fixed before cold weather gets here and I have to put the windows up.
 
The V-band clamp never sets correctly. You tighten it but one side doesnt end up in the clamp. I did find a 3" v-band clamp gasket that may help.
 
Detroit Dan said:
Whole system seems tight, but I've got a pretty good leak at the turbo clamp. Checked and it's all still tight, can't see why it's decided to leak there. Not real old, less than two years. Not rotted I don't think. I think I'm going to have to take the clamp off and pull it apart to see. That stinks. Anyone have this happen and know what it might be? Getting exhaust fumes in the cab from it a little, so it's gotta be fixed before cold weather gets here and I have to put the windows up.
Click to expand...

You sure it's not the exhaust manifold?
 
I also settled for close, trying many times. The only time I can actually hear it leak is when I block the exhaust with a rag and hand and it builds pressure and escapes there.
 
I think its more to do with the downpipe flare not fitting correctly with the elbow taper.
Check if the exhaust is sagging(broke/weak hanger maybe).that creates a bigger gap in the rear, the V clamp wont be able to draw that up.
 
Been a while since I did mine , down pipe that is , but recall it went a lot better with some help, to get pipes to line up squarely . Took more than one try . The clanp or band only meant to hold the pipes together & wouldnt tolerate any misalignment iirc
 
Diesel -T said:
Been a while since I did mine , down pipe that is , but recall it went a lot better with some help, to get pipes to line up squarely . Took more than one try . The clanp or band only meant to hold the pipes together & wouldnt tolerate any misalignment iirc
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What he said, and yep, it's a biotch to get things lined up properly, especially when the rest of the exhaust system is attached to the downpipe (which happens a lot when you change injectors, glowplugs, or turbo ... people just undo that clamp and the whole system is still hooked onto the DP, so when you try to re-install, you have to twist/lift/turn/maneuver the whole thing )

If you have the equipment, try taking the DP off the rest of the system, attach and tighten it good, then hook the rest of the system back up.
 
bison said:
I think its more to do with the downpipe flare not fitting correctly with the elbow taper.
Check if the exhaust is sagging(broke/weak hanger maybe).that creates a bigger gap in the rear, the V clamp wont be able to draw that up.
Click to expand...

Mine was more like Bison mentioned, the downpipes dont always match up right, the taper or size of flange differs from turbo elbow.
 
The flange on the down pipe busted for mine to leak. A muffler shop welded a stainless steel part from a muffler on mine to fix it.

Also the manifolds should seal from soot without a gasket. If the manifolds are leaking - replace the warped crispy critters for like 100 bucks on fleabay each new. They warp bad and sometimes the bolts won't even line up after removal.
 
Mine was leaking pretty good. Enough it would color the air filter a deep gray color.

After replacing the motor, I used a jack on the exhaust pipe to make sure is was fully seated. That help it sealed much better. You can't rely on the v clamp to pull the pipe in. Using the jack, I could make sure the pipe was properly positioned and touching all around the turbo pipe, before installing the v clamp. If the pipe was out of position, a rap of the mallet would line it up. Intall the clamp and let the pressure off the pipe. That was the tightest I was ever able to get the v clamp.

The other thing to look for is rust build up on the turbo pipe. I made sure the bevel was smooth and the rust scale was chipped off the first time the turbo was pulled.
 
I used a jack on the exhaust pipe to make sure is was fully seated. That help it sealed much better. You can't rely on the v clamp to pull the pipe in. Using the jack, I could make sure the pipe was properly positioned and touching all around the turbo pipe, before installing the v clamp. If the pipe was out of position, a rap of the mallet would line it up. Intall the clamp and let the pressure off the pipe. That was the tightest I was ever able to get the v clamp.
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X2. That's how I do it and I work alone, And drink alone, and drive alone, and not in that order. Hiccup!
 
Is there another source for these gaskets?

Do any parts stores carry them?


buddy said:
Here you go, gasket for V-Band and the turbo manifold. Even the exhaust shop said it was a biatch to get the V-Band Clamp on right and they said they have to bend the clamp to get it to seat right. Ive tried it 3 times myself and usually settle for getting it close.

http://www.intengineering.com/Cometic-3-Inch-Vband-p3333556-1-2.html

http://www.intengineering.com/Cometic-T3-Turbo-Gasket-p3333553-1-2.html

Rockauto sells manifold gaskets
Click to expand...
 
When i thought mine was leaking i actually had a hole about the size of a dime in the drivers side exhaust manifold right begind the downpipe. Might not be your issue, but i had help when i put my 4'' kit on, makes everything line up a lot easier.
 
Acesneights1 said:
He went up. He's getting 200$ now.
I pull the wheel well when messing with the turbo clamp.
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And only has one side left as I found for the burb project. These were GM surplus sold as a parts purge. The Dealer is your only remaining expensive option now. Time for Slim to see if China can make these...
 
WarWagon said:
The flange on the down pipe busted for mine to leak. A muffler shop welded a stainless steel part from a muffler on mine to fix it.

Also the manifolds should seal from soot without a gasket. If the manifolds are leaking - replace the warped crispy critters for like 100 bucks on fleabay each new. They warp bad and sometimes the bolts won't even line up after removal.
Click to expand...

Nothing a sharp smooth lathe file wouldn't fix. same for the bolt holes,rattail file does it.
 
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