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Which water injection system?

Dylly

Dylly

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Location
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
I have a very healthy 98 6.5L TD with 3" downpipe, 2.5" crossover, 4" straight pipe exhaust, Boost, Pyro, Trans Gauges, and a Heath PMD relocation kit with # 7 resistor.

I do plan on building the truck up into a monster power house (18:1... 25 psi etc.) a couple years from now but, i would like to add a turbo master (bring boost up to around 12psi) now, and a water injection system mainly for power and economy (right now).

Is there a particular set up that i should be looking into, or that you guys would reccomend?

(Fuel economy in mind now, Major horsepower/torque + egt cooling in the future).
 
I bought a reasonably priced greedbay kit, but the seller seems to be gone now and the snow stuff is all that's left.

I would have bought a kit from Heath if he had it when I was looking and got mine. It looks like a great setup.
 
Heath was buying his stuff from snow. I got my kit from devilsown. They also do well with customer service. Devildoc had emailed me that heath is getting his stuff from them now. I guess heaths did the testing with snow and got a better pricing structure from devilsown. I can't say if that is the case or not. I am quite happy with my w/m kit. I suggest you email devilsown and make inquiries. Ed
 
You should give Heath a call and talk to him. He is a big proponent of WI. I talked to him about this when I bought my reflash. The way he runs it is a lot different than what I was wanting to do but if you are looking for economy this may be what you are looking for. He starts injecting water at 2 psi so a large tank would be required.

Coolingmist is another source of kits and they have controllers similar to Snow and Devils Own.
 
I like the EGT or Boost Option that coolingmist offers... I'll have to call heath up ASAP and sort this out/ get a turbo master and possibly some other goodies ... not sure what else yet though.

Thanks for the suggestion
 
I was just wanting a simple system to keep iat in check when playing or on rare occasion that I tow heavy. For the most part I drive like an old man. Driving back and forth to work I rarely see above 3 psi with the ATT. I was just wanting a little help for the 10% of the time the truck isn't a commuter.
 
Wouldnt the milage increase from burning H2O... which broken down under combustion will turn into fuel (hydrogen + oxygen) and reform into water after combustion AND cool the combustion chamber AND at the same time increase milage ... make it all worth while regardless of old man driving or ripping on it?
 
Dylly said:
Wouldnt the milage increase from burning H2O... which broken down under combustion will turn into fuel (hydrogen + oxygen) and reform into water after combustion AND cool the combustion chamber AND at the same time increase milage ... make it all worth while regardless of old man driving or ripping on it?
Click to expand...

H2O will not break down into H2 & O2 that can participate in a combustion reaction. H2O (water) has a very low energy state (energy contained within it's bonds). Any reaction breaking H2O apart into H2 & O2 requires energy INPUT. Some will recall the gradeschool electrolysis experiments using energy from a battery to break H2O & built H2 & O2.

This isn't just an opinion; it's chemical reality. As a basic chemistry primer, lots of combustion reactions spit out heat energy, CO2, & H2O. More complex molecules containing more energy within their bonds, give up some of this energy during a combustion reaction & spit out CO2 & H2O (molecules with very low energy held within their bonds).

Then plants take CO2 & H2O, & do the photosynthesis reaction, using energy from the sun to form more complex molecules with that energy gained from the sun, held within their bonds.

Then we burn these plant derived materials via combustion to get the energy back..... & the cycle continues.

Water can provide evaporative cooling, which can show some intake efficiency benefits (beyond just cooling the air charge) in certain circumstances.
 
Yeah, the water you inject is to condense your air so that for the fixed volume of air that the engine can move it will have more mass of oxygen to burn. The steam also does not compress like air and so slightly increases your compression ratio within the cylinder. Add 10% methanol to the water to keep it and the lines clean and provide a little more combustable fuel.

I think coolingmist offers some great stuff at decent prices.
 
When water turns to steam it produces a ton of energy, In return you not only are gaining cooler temps, denser air, but the steam also gives you some 'free' boost I would think too.

I often wonder what water injections pre-turbo would do? On the exhaust side, perhaps on the collector?

I bet when EGT's are nice n hot it spools the turbo up.
 
Matt Bachand said:
When water turns to steam it produces a ton of energy, In return you not only are gaining cooler temps, denser air, but the steam also gives you some 'free' boost I would think too.

I often wonder what water injections pre-turbo would do? On the exhaust side, perhaps on the collector?

I bet when EGT's are nice n hot it spools the turbo up.
Click to expand...

I heard the water droplets will sandblast your turbo vanes. I could be wrong though. Ed
 
There is a system that is preturbo, they use foggers, not so much injectors. Ultimately for the best results post turbo the smaller the injectors the better. Small injectors and high pressure. So perhaps two 200cc/min@100psi, progressively controlled from like 75-150psi.
 
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